Help me with my first tux!

[wldthistle]

Hi everyone!

So, tomorrow I plan on going to the tailor and getting measured for a MTM tuxedo. I'm planning on going classic. Here's the description of what I want so far, assembled from the forums and http://blacktieguide.com/.

HTML Code:

Jacket
\tsingle breasted
\tpeak lapel
\tone button
\tno vents
\tfabric: barathea, 10-11 ounce
\tshowing shirt cuff
\tlapels
\t\tsilk grosgrain
\t\tbuttonhole with stem holder
\tpockets
\t\tdouble-besomed jetted (****) hip pocket
\t\twelt breast pocket
\tbuttons
\t\tcovered in lapel facing
\t\tfour sleeve buttons, touching
Trousers
\tnatural taper
\tpleated, folds opening toward center
\tnatural waist
\tcut for braces, with buttons
\tno belt loops or side adjusters
\tgrosgrain band ("braid")
\tvertical pockets
\tslight break
Waistcoat
\tsingle-breasted
\tlow-buttoning
\tthree buttons, grosgrain
\ttwo single-welt pockets​

What do you guys think? Is there anything I'm missing? Is there anything I might have trouble with, since I'm going MTM and not bespoke? Also, I'm not sure about the waistcoat fabric. Should it be all wool to match the jacket, grosgrain to match the lapels, or should it be wool with grosgrain lapels?

Also, I'm considering midnight blue. If I go this route, are the facings still black grosgrain, or are they midnight blue? I think I've seen both, but am not sure which is more correct. Also, with a midnight blue tux, does one still wear the same black accessories (bow tie, pumps with black grosgrain bow, possible black homburg)?

I get one shot at this, so want to make sure I get it right!

Thanks!

-Greg

 

[voxsartoria]

You are off to a great start.

Coat. What's your physique? If you are trim and will stay that way, stay with a ventless jacket. If not, reconsider having side vents put in. I also think that on a single-breasted dinner jacket, a linked buttons front is a bit nicer than a buttoned front, but it is kind of an antiquarian detail.

Vest. I would go with grosgrain lapels but barathea for the rest. Opinon can be divided on a false back, but if you get hot easily it is something to consider if you can be disciplined about not taking your jacket off.

Hip pockets. I do not like the pockets jetted in grosgrain or satin...I think self fabric is more elegant.

Trousers. Particularly with a ventless jacket, I do not think that braced trousers need back pockets at all. If you're brave, lose 'em.

Who is making it for you?


- B

 

[wldthistle]

Hi voxsartoria,

Thanks! I'm 5'10", and usually about 170 pounds. 38R, usually a 33" waist.
I've never heard of the linked buttons. What's the history here?

I'm going to a place outside of Baltimore that mainly makes suits for other companies, but does some work directly for the public. A fellow SFer recommended the tailor.

-Greg