Getting re-wardrobed. Suit questions. help wanted!!!

[123abc]

OK, so I'm new here - really informative forum! I always just go buy a suit or jackt/pants at JAB or wherever - if I like the color and feel of the fabric and it seems to fit OK I buy it. However, I haven't bought anything in quite some time and plan to get back into buying with more knowledge - that's why I'm here. I'm not a "clothes guy" but want to learn and also NEED to look the part of a leader of a financial advisory team. I deal with primarily mid- HWN clients, maybe $2-10 Mil NW. Some are business owners who wear golf shirt and pants to work, some I can tell know their clothes and dress very well. I'm an "off wall street" financial advisor, wanting to look well dressed, but also willing to deviate from the wall street uniform(s).

So, I am looking for advise on buying three suits. I'll probably buy two soon, then add a 3rd in a few months. Assume I'm starting from scratch on suits. I am mid-40s, salt and pepper hair (if that matters). My body type has been tough for me to fit on suits over the past decade as I gained some weight. I am 5'9, fairly strong upper body and 10-15 lbs overweight (working on that) - no one would call me "fat", just have more waist than I need. When I try on suits/jackets my issue is I always seem between the 42 and 44 and usually see little selection in 43. I also feel I'm right between a short and a R length. I don't want my jacket to make me look shorter, so usually go with the S but not sure if that's right. My waist is 35. So, an off the rack 43/35 would be about right I guess.

I have so many suit questions I don't know where to start. First off, does anyone have some insight on brands/types that might fit my body type best? I can pay up to $750 or so per suit.but would prefer cheaper I guess. I could even pay more for one of them for my "go to" presentation suit. I'm a value guy so if something can be had for less but still have the right look I'm all over that, but don't want to look like I buy cheap clothes.

I'll break my general questions up so they can be answered individually by anyone who can help. Understand that I've really researched here but so many opinions I wanted to hear thoughts specific to my body type and needs. Thx.

1. Pleated or not? OK, don't want to get an endless debate going (yeah, I read quite a few) but because I am NOT tall and thin I have rarely found flat pants that are comfortable or look right on me. I like the single pleat look but don't really know what's out there that could fit me in a flat front. To be honest, I haven't shooped for either in a while or looked very hard.

2. Cuffed pants? I have some that are and some not - all several years old. Again, I guess I maybe prefer the cuffed look, but maybe because I don't have the right straight leg pants. No idea on this one - don't want to be out of date and old looking and really have little preference.

3. Suit material (Should have been #1 I guess) : I see everyone saying to start with solid color, darker suits. OK, I like that look. Just so I know though, by "solid" does this mean no details like a light pinstripe or checkered stripe pattern? I tend to like the look of thin checkered pattern, but no idea if it's OK these days. Also, isn't the blue pinstripe still a staple business suit? To be honest, I never really liked the blue pinstripe on me, but just asking. What specific colors would you recommend? Also, is this brand and style specific or is a charcoal grey OK in any suit that fits and is made properly?

4. Jacket cut. The thin euro look is great for slender men, I'm not that. I have a stronger chest and shoulders - would be great if I could get my waist back to 32 but that ain't happening (maybe 34). So, I've always favored the squarer shoulders tapered to a slightly tighter fit at the buttons (not pulling or "tight" just not loose. I see all the ads showing models with more fitted shoulders, but again, their body and mine are very different - always slender models. I remember back in the day buying "10" drop" suits, not sure anyone uses that lingo anymore, but I guess I like an "8" drop" look these days. Maybe even more.

On a side note, I have no desire to look like those models. I'd love to be taller and maybe skinier but am glad to have some bulk in my upper body! I'll kick those models a$$es all over if they mock my stout body! OK. back to my Q's...

5. 3-piece for one suit? I'm seeing them again and maybe they add versatility. Can a 3-piece be worn as a 2-piece or are the jackets cut different for the vest?

So, I'm looking for even where to start looking for suits - brands, where to buy, online, whatever. I want to be looking for suits that might look right on me, not someone else. I have a local tailor who is good so he can fit a proper suit bought online for me. I live near Rochester, NY if anyone knows the men's shopping in the area and want to give me ideas. We have many different options - department stores, JAB, MW (where I've shopped before) but also higher end men's stores with rack and custom suits.

OK. Let me have it!

 

[unbelragazzo]

Honestly, if your main goal is just to look presentable for rich clients, then just stick to JAB or maybe Brooks Brothers if you want to upgrade a little bit. Get it tailored and you will look fine. To your questions:

1. Pleated, yes.

2. Cuffed or not, doesn't really matter. Some people say cuffs always with pleats, but no one is going to really care.

3. Don't know what you mean by checkered stripe. If you mean a glen check, it's a little risky for the conservative environment you are describing. In any case, those patterns are not considered solids.

4. Your sense is correct, do not buy suits that do not fit or look silly on you. Go around and try a few on, see which ones feel best.

5. These days, a 3-piece stands out. If you're not confident in your fashion sense and want just to project confidence and competence, there's no reason to mess with them.

You might look into having shirts made for you, since this is quite cheap and not too hard to get a decent fit, and once you get it perfected you can just order them whenever you need. Get some white and blue ones. Then just some conservative ties that aren't too shiny, a couple pairs of nice black shoes which you should keep reasonably well-shined and you're all set. It really doesn't have to be complicated if you don't want it to be. We obsess over little details because we enjoy it (or at least that should be the reason), but it's totally unnecessary if your goal is just to look professional (and there's nothing wrong with that).

 

[mensimageconsultant]

Don't be tricked by "value." Buy one suit at a time, so that basic fit is gotten right, preferably before alterations make it unreturnable. Post pictures here after buying if unsure, and look around online to see how a suit should fit.

 

[123abc]

Thanks for the feedback so far. Very helpful on the suits. Are there other brands I can buy online where I can screen the selection based on sizes I want? Maybe Brooks brothers or a bit nicer? Also, what are the BB lines that are low quality/ I want to avoid just buying the name and getting a cheapo version. I already read that their outlet stores have different. lower quality product.

On the shirts, I have some questions on that also, Am I better off making that a different thread? I tried on most of my dress shirts yesterday and I am embarrassed what I've been wearing!!! They look like deflated balloons in my mid-section. I wear a 16.5-17" / 32/33 (depends on make) and even though I have a few extra gut lbs. the 17" shirts are made for huge bodies. I need to fix this asap and will look into custom order and local custom made or the like.

 

[aDrummingDude]

You are right that the Brooks Brothers outlet stores are of different, most say lower quality. However, for someone looking to jump in to a new wardrobe, the BB outlets are still a step or two above JAB.

As I was reading your initial post, I was thinking of a gray hounds tooth Canali jacket I have that may fit you well (it's a 42R, and has strong shoulders like you like). To give you reference I'm 5' 8" and around 185lbs, and between a 40-42 jacket size. Its just a touch too big in my shoulders, but if you're between sizes 42 and 44, I think it would fit you like a glove. It's only about 6 months old and has been worn maybe a dozen times at best. I also have a black super 110 "Made in the New America" Joseph Abboud jacket that's the biggest 42R I've ever bought for sale. Again, the shoulders are too big for me but it sounds like it may fit you well. PM me for pics if interested. I'll make you a smokin' deal.

Edit: I agree with unberlagazzo's advice on getting a couple pairs of nice shoes, but I'd go one black and one medium brown, and don't cheap out! Personally, I only spend real money on jackets/suits and shoes. I can typically find well fitting shirts and designer ties on uber-sale, so I don't spend much on those.

 

[ballmouse]

Are you getting your suits tailored? I can't tell by your introduction.

If not, you could probably continue purchasing suits similar to what you have (provided they are a decent fit for you) and take them to a good tailor. Even with the same suits, it might make the difference that you're looking for.

If you're around Rochester, I hear Adrian Jules is a good bespoke/MTM tailor - perhaps the shop does alterations or could point you to a very good tailor.

Alternatively, if you would like to shop somewhere else instead of JAB, you could try O'Connell's in Buffalo: http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/. But even then, I wouldn't get too caught up in brand names of suits or the like - it seems like you just want a good fit and if the JAB fits well as is, you might as well continue with them.

 

[123abc]

OK, thanks again, all. I may stop by Adrian Jules here in town and talk to them. I don't mind paying up if it comes with knowledge and advise (good advise, that is).

Shoes were also mentioned and I have a different thread for that. While on the subject though, I plan to buy a pair of black AE either Park Avenue or Fifth Avenue soon. Between the two, which would you buy if you only planned to have 3-4 pairs of good shoes total? Assume starting from scratch on shoes.