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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures)

Zapasman

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As far as I know, GG, EG, Corthay and SC use crust (veg tanned) leathers for most of their shoes (no museum). So they dye their shoes superficially (museum calf has a different treatment at the tannery) and then apply waxes.

I do not know about the pearl shoe especifically.
Can anybody tell me whether the pearl grey is a result of using museum leather like Vass or John Lobb or just a result of how these shoes are finished. The variation in colors certainly looks like museum calf anyway.
 

dddrees

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As far as I know, GG, EG, Corthay and SC use crust (veg tanned) leathers for most of their shoes (no museum). So they dye their shoes superficially (museum calf has a different treatment at the tannery) and then apply waxes.

I do not know about the pearl shoe especifically.
So are there any significant advantages or disadvantages of doing it either way? Something tells me there would be an advantage somehow of doing during the tanning process, but if there is what would that be?
 

Zapasman

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Speaking of pearl are you getting G&G shoes? @ Zapasman
Jajajja, I buy 1 pair of shoe per year!!. I admire GG for different reasons. But it is not my style; too refined for my taste. Although, I would not mine to wear a pair of St James II. Just beautiful shoes for someone else´s feet.
 

dddrees

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I should start a Subscription Service "Skoaktiebolaget G&G per month". Only $1200/month get the December pair for free - always a style in red or green. :)


So @Leaves can you give us a better idea as to how G&G actually achieves this pearl grey finish? Is it a result of something via tanning like a museum calf, or via dyeing or finishing applied by G&G later?
 

Zapasman

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So are there any significant advantages or disadvantages of doing it either way? Something tells me there would be an advantage somehow of doing during the tanning process, but if there is what would that be?
No, as far as I know. They just have different treatments.

If you like different/special/mixed/unique colours and burnishing go for crust (superficial treatment after tanning). One advantage could be that veg tanned leather breath more than chrome-tanned leathers. It seems you have to be more carefull with maintenance here in order to keep the superficial shades with time.

If you do not like those and prefer one perfect shade of the same colour that impregnates the whole leather go for an aniline chrome-tanned leather. Finished coat. Museum has almost the same treatment (colour/waxes/oils are impregnated in the leather, not superficially). I like aniline leather and love the patina it develops. I do not like burnishing, spit shine and all those finishings.

But be sure I will pull the trigger with crust leather and EG in 2016!!.
 

dddrees

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No, as far as I know.  They just have different treatments.

If you like different/special/mixed/unique colours and burnishing go for crust (superficial treatment after tanning).  One advantage could be that veg tanned leather breath more than chrome-tanned leathers.  It seems you have to be more carefull with maintenance here in order to keep the superficial shades with time.

If you do not like those and prefer one perfect shade of the same colour that impregnates the whole leather go for an aniline  chrome-tanned leather.  Finished coat.  Museum has almost the same treatment (colour/waxes/oils are impregnated in the leather, not superficially).  I like aniline leather and love the patina it develops. I do not like burnishing, spit shine and all those finishings.

But be sure I will pull the trigger with crust leather and EG in 2016!!.


Sounds to me like maintenance of that finishing would certainly be a key advantage if applied during the tanning process and that certainly would make sense.
 

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