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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, e

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Feel the insole with the tip of your finger. If it is cement or glue the surface will feel different--tacky/rubber-y if it is cement; hard/glazed if it is glue.

    I have never seen such a thing before but I am going to take a wild guess and suggest that it is a combination of a new source of insole leather and perhaps an attempt to "erase" iron stains left over from tacking the insole to the bottom of the last. Iron tacks leave black stains as they react with the tannins in the leather.

    Some makers may use oxalic acid (a mild acid derived from rhubarb) to remove these stains; others may use citric acid (never worked for me). But the acid itself will react to the various tannins somewhat, often turning the leather a reddish colour expecially if baking soda or some such base is subsequently used to neutralize the acid.

    If there is a residue of glue or cement, by all means complain.. If the leather feels uniform under your figertip, I wouldn't worry about it. The insole itself will take on many such stains and colourations simply by virtue of perspiration and heat emmanating from the plantar surface of the foot.After about ten-20 wears the insole won't be that awful pink colour but a patina-d brown.
     
  2. badsha

    badsha Well-Known Member

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    DWFII thank you sir. I will check and report back. Feels smooth i suppose. Its hard for me to tell if its glue glaze.

    Update: They are water stains on the insoles
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2012
  3. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    This and this^
     
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Looks like stains from conditioner or something. The first thing that I do when I get new shoes is lexol the inside so it would darken it anyway.
     
  5. luk-cha

    luk-cha Well-Known Member

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    no wonder they squeek!
     
  6. NAMOR

    NAMOR Well-Known Member

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    dug this pic up [​IMG] stitch, you ever get your pair?
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. claes500

    claes500 Well-Known Member

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    Too little action on this thread for a while so here are a few pictures courtesy of Nick of the Connaught headed to Stockholm this week!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Connaught in Vintage Oak on the TG73

    edit spelling
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2012
  8. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    What is stitching by the tongue for? to limit movement?
     
  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Yes, keeps the tounge from migrating to either side. Pretty much all high-end shoes have it.
     
  10. joshuadowen

    joshuadowen Well-Known Member

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    Just ordered a pair of Cambridge in the Midnight Calf. Can't wait to show them off in 5 months time.
     
  11. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    You wish n00b. You'll get them in 7.
     
  12. joshuadowen

    joshuadowen Well-Known Member

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    Haha I figured. Good thing I'm in no rush.
     
  13. claes500

    claes500 Well-Known Member

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    Midnight Blue :drool:
     
  14. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    interesting how they stitched it. different from EG. seems like this would limit getting your foot in the shoe if you can not move the tongue
     
  15. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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    Im not a fan of this stitch, FWIW.
     
  16. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Which of your shoes have with a stitched tongue? I think on oxfords or other shoes with centered lacing, the stitched tongue may not make much of a difference. On my sidelaced wholecuts, the stitching on one shoe broke off and I often have to adjust the tongue on that side compared to the contralateral side. It is a small but noticeable hassle.
     
  17. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    In my experience (I only have this feature on bespoke shoes) the closeness of the bespoke fit is a greater limitation than just the stitched tongue.
     
  18. Xiaogou

    Xiaogou Well-Known Member

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    Fwiw, I like the stitch!
     
  19. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Really depends. It can be either a new stitch, like here, or over the existing seams. G&G does stitch over for some shoes, at least on my Canterbury. Wonder why they did not do it here.

    Also, this feature does not always be implemented for shoes with plain vamp, e.g., whole cut, austerity brogue, etc.
     
  20. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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    It appears then, that we have a stitchuation.
     

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