Express your opinion regarding the longevity of the leather sole and welt

[miurasv]

Originally Posted by DWFII

I might add that paying a premium for a designer or a certain stylishness is neither unusual nor a sin. If I were buying shoes for myself, I would rather pay the premium for a G&G than a lesser shoe. I would rather pay a premium for a medium rare rib-eye done by an experienced and well-respected chef than save money and eat at Wendy's. It's the way it has always been...time out of mind.
I absolutely agree with you but it is why lots of people I know who 'don't get it' think I'm absolutely bonkers. And they may be right.

 

[kellgy]

I just bought a pair of Alden's for 450.00 and did not think twice about the price. I love the shoe and that is all that matters. If it brings happiness wearing something you like even if it cost 2.00 at a thrift store, well, wear it with style and enjoy. Authentic happiness cannot be purchased, but it is the little things that matter.

As far as the longevity of the sole on my recently purchased and twice worn Unionmade Indy shoes, the toes are already wearing fast. I am considering options for extending the integrity of the sole since they will be worn chasing around cub scouts outside, though demanding elements and time/convenience is a big factor.

 

[DWFII]

Originally Posted by miurasv

Thank you very much for your reply. So we are paying 4 times the price for shoes that are only minutely or very marginally better than the cheaper shoes. Diminishing returns gone crazy I guess but as we all know it's not just shoes or shoe manufacturers that are guilty of this. It's true in the hierarchy and manufacture of most luxury goods.
I suspect I'm flogging a dead horse

but in my opinion, there are goods and services, materials and techniques that warrant significantly higher prices. For instance, the difference between Baker insole shoulders and those coming out of Mexico is striking (if not always critical). Baker shoulders spend more time in the tanning pits and the tanning liquour is oak, if nothing else. Bespoke shoes and esp. handwelted shoes warrant higher prices not only because of the special attention and extra time but because the quality of shoe is, generally speaking, regarded as "Job One"...as opposed to the "bottom line." Again, it is hard to quantify the difference...I'm not sure that at the most basic level the French bespoke is any better than the Austrian...but we do pay for subtleties, finesse, and extraordinary skill. As we should. But once we start talking about finesse, etc., we are really talking about the ineffable--things that are often matters of perspective, personal taste and preference. Glamour, cachet, style...and very seldom substance.

 

[miurasv]

Yes, £100 or £200 spent on shoes that 'don't do it' is a waste of money but £400 on shoes that 'do' is money well spent or that's what I'll tell myself anyway.

 

[Xenon]

Going back to the original question of op:

I don't believe that topy wears down any slower or that it will prevent the sole tip wearing. In fact I have experienced one shoe wearing quickly through the topy and then the wear slowing down.

For me the only fundamental thing a topy can do is prevent excessive moisture form entering the shoe/boot from the sole side. For instance in winter a often wear a pair of old cowboy boots to walk in the slush, water, mud ect. and it used to be that my socks would literally become very wet. this does not happen with topys. I have simply not found anything else that can waterproof dense sole leather.

Anyone have deferring experience

 

[emptym]

Originally Posted by DWFII

One of the things I do for my customers when they come in for final fitting and pick up...and something the average person can do to some extent at home when the shoe is new...is that I "set the creases."

The most basic part of this technique is simply having them put one leg forward as if taking a step. Then, while the shoe on the other foot is held firmly to the ground put that knee on the ground. Of course the heel will come up, but if the forefoot is held down it will flex the forepart of the shoe almost to the maximum it will ever need to flex. Repeat on the other foot.

Do this a half dozen times and it will accelerate the break-in process for the insole and more importantly the outsole, and possibly...probably...ameliorate the wear at the toe.

When I do this with customers, I also lay two pencils or dowels over top of the foot about a half inch or a little more apart and hold those pencils firmly in place as the shoe/foot is flexed and the knee brought to the ground. On a brand new shoe or boot, this will encourage the creases to form such that they run straight across the foot. Once broken in like that...and if the shoe actually fits properly...the shoe will flex and crease in that configuration forever. But using the pencils takes a helper.

DW, very helpful and interesting as are all of your posts. Please post a video of this if you ever find the time.

 

[bewing77]

Living in a country where rain and slush is much more common than dry conditions it would probably make some kind of sense to put on topys or whatnot, but I wouldn't ever even consider it. To me, part of owing a pair of good shoes is allowing myself the luxury of wearing them down over time. Putting plastic on them is to me on par with buying a nice sofa and then covering it in plastic.

I much prefer using shoes under the conditions they are supposed to be used which means I own as many danite-soled shoes as leather soled ones, for use in fall/winter/early spring. I also keep a pair of Swims galoshes at work for saving my shoes if weather turns bad during the day. My experience is that good leather soles wears out no faster than rubber, as long as they don't get wet and as long as you are careful to rotate the shoes and allow them to rest for at least on day between wears.

 

[Wes Bourne]

Originally Posted by Skanstull

My take - the toe of the sole wears down quite quickly in the beginning, but then the pace of wear slows down...

My experience as well.

Originally Posted by DWFII

One of the things I do for my customers when they come in for final fitting and pick up...and something the average person can do to some extent at home when the shoe is new...is that I "set the creases."

The most basic part of this technique is simply having them put one leg forward as if taking a step. Then, while the shoe on the other foot is held firmly to the ground put that knee on the ground. Of course the heel will come up, but if the forefoot is held down it will flex the forepart of the shoe almost to the maximum it will ever need to flex. Repeat on the other foot.

Do this a half dozen times and it will accelerate the break-in process for the insole and more importantly the outsole, and possibly...probably...ameliorate the wear at the toe.

When I do this with customers, I also lay two pencils or dowels over top of the foot about a half inch or a little more apart and hold those pencils firmly in place as the shoe/foot is flexed and the knee brought to the ground. On a brand new shoe or boot, this will encourage the creases to form such that they run straight across the foot. Once broken in like that...and if the shoe actually fits properly...the shoe will flex and crease in that configuration forever. But using the pencils takes a helper.

I've heard of using 1 pen/pencil to achieve this, but 2?

And fwiw, my shoes rarely, if ever, naturally crease straight across the foot.