Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

[Wes Bourne]



On the 888 I wear 8.5/9F and a 8.5/9E on the 202 if that helps.

Same size, but 1 width fitting difference between the 888 and 202 should work for me too, I think.

202 is a tad wider than 888, has a higher instep and is also a shorter last than 888. It's hard to comment on whether sizing down would work. Best to try some sizes on to be more certain.

^ That would be in line with the following:

Here's an explanation of the Edward Green lasts by Tony Gaziano. For those that don't know, he designed the 888 and 82 lasts, and certainly worked extensively with the others. This is taken from the London Lounge Site posted November 7, 2005. I hope this is OK to post it here, since I don't know how to link directly to it.

"Hi Guys

Just to clarify, the 606, 202 are the same family and the 888,82 last are the same family, the last that was produced for Fosters was the 88 last and the 32,33 last were the parents of the 202,606.

so the EG last order goes like this.

first the 32 round toe last

second the 33 square toe version of the 32

third the 202, adapted 32 to fit better

fourth the 606 square toe version of 202

fifth 808 elegant square toe based on the 88 but did not fit well

sixth 89 developed for R.Lauren as a better fitting 808

seventh 888 bespoke looking last developed from 202 but longer and narrower toe box

eighth 82 round toe based on 888


ther have been other lasts produced by EG but mostly for other customers, not EG core range.


there are also numerous slip-on last, but there development history is not as striaght forward.


Tony"

This is 888 vs 202, both UK9,5E

Length and width look about the same here.

 

[Leaves]



This is 888 vs 202, both UK9,5E

Same size, but 1 width fitting difference between the 888 and 202 should work for me too, I think.
^ That would be in line with the following:
Length and width look about the same here.

I think that's the 82, not the 202? (jcusey picture)

 

[gyasih]

I agree, those look more like 82

 

[sdolina]

I think that's the 82, not the 202? (jcusey picture)

Nope, 202, but I was wrong about width, 202 are in 9,5D, while 888 are in 9,5E

 

[gyasih]

Great shoes nonetheless. I think the orientation helps with identification. Enjoy!!

 

[Leaves]



Nope, 202, but I was wrong about width, 202 are in 9,5D, while 888 are in 9,5E

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Ah, ok it's a D, I thought they looked very narrow for a 202. The Cherwell is a great lloking shoe by the way. Love the Sage Green as well!

 

[Wes Bourne]



Nope, 202, but I was wrong about width, 202 are in 9,5D, while 888 are in 9,5E

Ah ha! Similar to jerrybrowne's experience: same size, but 1 width fitting down from 888 to 202.

 

[kolecho]



Nope, 202, but I was wrong about width, 202 are in 9,5D, while 888 are in 9,5E

202 looks very nice in D width indeed. I tried going a half size up and a width down on 202 but it ended up being too narrow.

 

[PhiloVance]

Deadstock Vintage Edward Green Piccadilly loafer for Brooks Bros.' Peal & Co. line. UK 9.5E on the 184 loafer last, with vintage Brooks Bros. dust bags.

You can view more pics (and my nocturnal ramblings) here:

http://uptowndandy.blogspot.com/2012/09/vintage-edward-green-for-brooks.html

 

[VRaivio]

^Side seam, a deal killer for me. The style looks extremely good, though.

 

[kolecho]

Do they have rear seam?

 

[PhiloVance]

Yes, the loafers have a rear seam. That's the strange part. I thought it might be a tech limitation of the era, but these are probably not more than 30 years old, and of course the other side of the loafer is basically identical but for the side seam. It must have been added as a design feature - someone thought it would look nice. It is relatively discreet, it just struck me as something you don't see very often from EG.

 

[bengal-stripe]



Yes, the loafers have a rear seam. That's the strange part. I thought it might be a tech limitation of the era, but these are probably not more than 30 years old, and of course the other side of the loafer is basically identical but for the side seam. It must have been added as a design feature - someone thought it would look nice. It is relatively discreet, it just struck me as something you don't see very often from EG.

That seam on the medial (inner) side (less visible) is not really a design feature, but a way to save leather. A whole-cut (that's what the 'Piccadilly' really is) is extremely wasteful as far as leather is concerned. A whole lot will end up on the clicking room floor. If you divide the whole-cut into a 3/4 and 1/4 cut, you can lay the pattern pieces much closer together; think of (sexual) positions like 'tea-spoons' or '69'. As a result of this manipulation, you have less waste.

Oops, I hope I haven't disillusioned one or the other. But take heart, this way of penny-pinching was much more prevalent in the olden days, although it is still going on sometimes.

 

[Patek]

Some better pictures of my recent Leffot EG purchase before de-virginizing them.

 

[LS7]

For those that might be interested, EG sent the following message out to the mailing list today:

The art of hand sewing

Hand sewing with pig's bristles is the acme of English shoe-making.
Come and see a demonstration of the craft this Saturday, along with our new hand sewn collection.

This season we're delighted to have as full a range of hand sewn shoes as we can remember at Jermyn Street. The Dover has long been one of our most popular shoes - perhaps the style most closely associated with EG. For the new season it's complemented by several handsome new arrivals. All have aprons hand sewn with pig's bristles, an old English craft and as delicate and exacting a task as you can find in shoe-making.

Two of our hand sewers will be visiting Jermyn Street this Saturday to demonstrate their craft and answer your questions on shoe-making. We'll have sparkling wine from award-winning Kent winery, Chapel Down.

Saturday 29th September, 12 - 5pm | Edward Green, Jermyn Street, London

The Ecton derby, Ashby monk & Nevis boot

New for autumn:
Ecton —888 last — nightshade, cloud
Ashby — 888 last — coffee suede
Nevis — 606 last — Mahogany country calf, chestnut

Dover — 32 last — chestnut, dark oak, black
606 last— black, dark oak, forest green | Walnur country calf with dainite sole
Winchelsea — black, dark oak, mocha suede
Harrow — black, dark oak, tobacco suede