Dress Shirt Fit Comparison Ralph Lauren, J. Ferrar, and Charles Tyrwhitt

[NavySuitBlackShoes]

The following dress shirts are in the photos below.

Ralph Lauren Classic Fit 15 x 32-33
J. Ferrar Slim Fit 15-15.5 x 32-33
Charles Tyrwhitt Extra Slim Fit 15.5 x 32.

I know that technically the Ralph Lauren Oxford shirt is not a dress shirt. I am also aware that I did not button the second button near the cuff on the shirts. I am thinking of ordering a Charles Tyrwhitt Slim Fit Shirt 15.5 x 33, and then having my tailor shorten the sleeves. I attempted to order 32.5 inch sleeves on the Charles Tyrwhitt website, but UPS delivered a 32 inch sleeve shirt.

The Charles Tyrwhitt shirt shortens when I sit down. It also has high armholes. The Ralph Lauren shirt collar is a bit tight. The J. Ferrar shirt has a bit of bagginess. The 1975 edition of Dress for Success provides several useful tips. John T. Molloy states that "the first area where the shirt should fit is around the waist. The shirt should be smooth all the way around, with no bagginess or bunching of material anywhere, but still loose enough to allow comfortable movement and to allow you to sit down without having the material pulling at the buttons."

John T. Molloy also states, "with semi-custom, the collars as well as the sleeves can be fitted as closely as quarter sizes." Who produces semi-custom shirts? In 1975, they cost $35.00. How much do they cost now?

What are your thoughts on the fit of the shirts?

Ralph Lauren Classic Fit 15 x 32-33 (ABOVE)

J. Ferrar Slim Fit 15-15.5 x 32-33 (ABOVE)

Charles Tyrwhitt Extra Slim Fit 15.5 x 32 (ABOVE)

 

[Stylewords]

Collars far too big.

 

[msimon]

They all look to big to me.

 

[JohnMRobie]

All of those are too big for you in the collar and through the body. The Ralph Lauren oxford looks like it is closest but the collar even on that one looks slightly large and sleeves slightly short.

 

[NavySuitBlackShoes]

All of those are too big for you in the collar and through the body. The Ralph Lauren oxford looks like it is closest but the collar even on that one looks slightly large and sleeves slightly short.

Thank you all for the feedback. What do you suggest? Should I go to Brooks Brothers for a made-to-measure shirt? Should I try a Super Slim Fit Charles Tyrwhitt shirt? Should I have my tailor take in my dress shirts? Should I get a 34 inch sleeve shirt and have my tailor shorten the sleeves?

One of my arms may be longer than the other. John T. Molloy states: "When you are measured for a shirt, make sure that both arms are measured, not just one. If one arm is significantly longer than the other (and it is with a surprising percentage of men), you will have to wear semi-custom shirts to get the sleeves right." A Ralph Lauren Purple Label dress shirt would be too expensive to justify getting it tailored. The Polo Ralph Lauren shirts are all button-down shirts and I do not want button-down dress shirts.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Thank you all for the feedback. What do you suggest? Should I go to Brooks Brothers for a made-to-measure shirt? Should I try a Super Slim Fit Charles Tyrwhitt shirt? Should I have my tailor take in my dress shirts? Should I get a 34 inch sleeve shirt and have my tailor shorten the sleeves?

One of my arms may be longer than the other. John T. Molloy states: "When you are measured for a shirt, make sure that both arms are measured, not just one. If one arm is significantly longer than the other (and it is with a surprising percentage of men), you will have to wear semi-custom shirts to get the sleeves right." A Ralph Lauren Purple Label dress shirt would be too expensive to justify getting it tailored. The Polo Ralph Lauren shirts are all button-down shirts and I do not want button-down dress shirts.

Instead of focusing on shortening sleeves or getting sleeve lengths different, if you were altering anything I’d just alter the button placement on the cuff. The cuff controls where the sleeve sits. A longer sleeve will give you greater movement. Paired with a cuff that is the correct width the cuff will stay in place while the excess fabric in the sleeve will allow you to move.

If it were me, I’d focus on finding a shirt that fits you in the collar. Ability to fit 1-3 fingers between the collar and your neck when buttoned depending on your preference. And then focus on the correct shoulder width. If you struggle to find a shirt that you can get those two measurements correct then MTM from a reputable maker would be a better option. You can get pretty basic MTM shirts pretty reasonably priced from places like Spier Mackay, Proper Cloth or other affiliates on here.

 

[ter1413]

Agree. All too big.

@Shirtmaven maybe able to add some advice.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Don't quote John Malloy!
Take full body photos from a normal distance. No need to contort your arms.
Iron your shirt before taking photos.
All shirts shrink. 1/2” in the collar. 1/2+3/4" in the sleeve length.
Unless you give your shirts to a crappy commercial cleaners where they sometimes stretch the sleeves
The Ralph Lauren shirt is the best of the 3. You are wearing higher waist pleated pants. Shirt should have a little fullness at the waist.

 

[rjc149]

I wear Charles Tyrwhitt dress shirts in 15.5/33 slim. I originally got them in 32 sleeves, but they were too short. I exchanged them for 33's. The 33's are slightly long but I imagine that will allow for shrinkage over time. The slim fits my chest and shoulders well, but is pretty billowy around my waist. I got them all darted, with some clearance for overindulging in food.

 

[NavySuitBlackShoes]

@Jmr928 Thank you for giving me specific steps to attain a great fitting dress shirt. You state, "Instead of focusing on shortening sleeves or getting sleeve lengths different, if you were altering anything I’d just alter the button placement on the cuff. The cuff controls where the sleeve sits. A longer sleeve will give you greater movement." Do you mean that I should I use the button that gives me a tighter sleeve when there are two buttons? I looked at the Proper Cloth website and I may try them. Their website contains negative thoughts on Brooks Brothers made-to-measure dress shirts.

@Shirtmaven Thank you for the feedback. " You say, "Don't quote John Malloy!" Why is this?

@rjc149 I am glad to see someone who is a fan of Charles Tyrwhitt. My Charles Tyrwhitt shirt is technically more formal than the other two shirts with its one button and rounded cuffs. May I ask your height and weight? I am 5'9" and 135 pounds. How do the armholes on your shirts fit? Are they tight? How long will it take for the sleeves to shrink?

It seems to be the consensus that the Ralph Lauren shirt is the best fit. This is the only shirt of the three that I ironed before taking the photos. The shirt was still wrinkled in parts, even after ironing. The cuffs in particular give me trouble.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Don't quote John Malloy!

I’m afraid to ask what a John Malloy is.

@Jmr928 Thank you for giving me specific steps to attain a great fitting dress shirt. You state, "Instead of focusing on shortening sleeves or getting sleeve lengths different, if you were altering anything I’d just alter the button placement on the cuff. The cuff controls where the sleeve sits. A longer sleeve will give you greater movement." Do you mean that I should I use the button that gives me a tighter sleeve when there are two buttons? I looked at the Proper Cloth website and I may try them. Their website contains negative thoughts on Brooks Brothers made-to-measure dress shirts.

@Shirtmaven Thank you for the feedback. " You say, "Don't quote John Malloy!" Why is this?

@rjc149 I am glad to see someone who is a fan of Charles Tyrwhitt. My Charles Tyrwhitt shirt is technically more formal than the other two shirts with its one button and rounded cuffs. May I ask your height and weight? I am 5'9" and 135 pounds. How do the armholes on your shirts fit? Are they tight? How long will it take for the sleeves to shrink?

It seems to be the consensus that the Ralph Lauren shirt is the best fit. This is the only shirt of the three that I ironed before taking the photos. The shirt was still wrinkled in parts, even after ironing. The cuffs in particular give me trouble.

I defer shirt questions to @Shirtmaven but I personally like a longer sleeve and conical cuffs with a tight-ish fit. It may be my imagination but it feels like they stay put when I move my arms around. They never fall too far down my wrist and never pull too far up my wrist and I don’t feel like I need to adjust or pull them down from my jacket.

 

[Shirtmaven]

@Jmr928 Thank you for giving me specific steps to attain a great fitting dress shirt. You state, "Instead of focusing on shortening sleeves or getting sleeve lengths different, if you were altering anything I’d just alter the button placement on the cuff. The cuff controls where the sleeve sits. A longer sleeve will give you greater movement." Do you mean that I should I use the button that gives me a tighter sleeve when there are two buttons? I looked at the Proper Cloth website and I may try them. Their website contains negative thoughts on Brooks Brothers made-to-measure dress shirts.

@Shirtmaven Thank you for the feedback. " You say, "Don't quote John Malloy!" Why is this?

@rjc149 I am glad to see someone who is a fan of Charles Tyrwhitt. My Charles Tyrwhitt shirt is technically more formal than the other two shirts with its one button and rounded cuffs. May I ask your height and weight? I am 5'9" and 135 pounds. How do the armholes on your shirts fit? Are they tight? How long will it take for the sleeves to shrink?

It seems to be the consensus that the Ralph Lauren shirt is the best fit. This is the only shirt of the three that I ironed before taking the photos. The shirt was still wrinkled in parts, even after ironing. The cuffs in particular give me trouble.

What year was dress for success written? Styles and ideas about dressing have changed. I read it a lifetime ago.
I would bet he would never wear brown shoes with a navy suit. Today it is quite common.

 

[NavySuitBlackShoes]

@Jmr928 "I’m afraid to ask what a John Malloy is." John T. Molloy published Dress for Success in 1975. The book was based on fifteen years of research with 15,000 executives and professional men.

@Shirtmaven My edition of Dress for Success was published in 1975. 1975 was a much better year for sartorial standards than 2022. I think professionals wearing brown shoes with a navy suit is a concerning phenomenon. Molloy is more liberal than myself in his approach and states: "acceptable colors for business shoes are black, brown, and cordovan." A navy suit and brown shoes used to be found only among professionals in fintech and Silicon Valley. A few years ago, Jamie Dimon destroyed the dress code at J.P. Morgan. In BigLaw, Dechert now allows jeans any day of the week.

 

[JohnMRobie]

I needed that laugh. Thank you, new guy.

 

[Shirtmaven]

@NavySuitBlackShoes
Proper Cloth website and I may try them. Their website contains negative thoughts on Brooks Brothers made-to-measure dress shirts.

Propercloth and Brooks Brothers shirts are made by the same company
As are Charles tyrwitt.
Pot calling the kettle black...
In 1974 most men wore typical office uniform. The wide lapels were shrinking and shirt collars shortened from the late 60s early 70s am

Yes, today dressing for a job in banking or law can be very confusing.
I certainly don't miss wearing ties.

@ter1413 thank you for dragging me into this one, ☺️