Deciding on an overcoat purchase between Orazio Luciano, Ring Jacket, or Loro Piana-thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated

[barryzhang27]

Hi everyone

I'm deciding between three RTW overcoats to add to my closet. All three are single breasted three button overcoats. The first is a pre-owned 46 EU Loro Piana Sartorial Model storm system pure cashmere overcoat in a light grey/slightly olive (link to the specific model but not the same color is right here: https://us.loropiana.com/en/p/man/coats-&-trench/loro-piana-sartorial-coat-FAI2107?colorCode=W000 ), the second is a NWT 48 EU Orazio Luciano pure cashmere in black, and the third is a NWT 48 EU Ring Jacket pure wool in navy. I'm looking at between $700-$900 depending on the coat.

Generally speaking, each has their pros and cons to me, but I also want to get as much information as I can from what people have some experience with these particular manufacturers. From what I've read on this forum, Orazio and Ring Jacket have fairly solid reputations for build quality (though I get the impression that Orazio does more hand-finishing with their items). However, I don't know that much about the quality of Loro Piana's in house outerwear. It would seem that they must be well-made due to their enormous price tags, but I'd like to hear what people on here have experienced. For instance, I definitely want a coat in this price range to be fully canvassed both for the drape as well as for the longevity. I know that both the Ring Jacket and the Orazio are fully canvassed, but I don't know if that's the case for the Loro Piana. I would be quite shocked (and dissapointed) if they were fused or half-fused at their price points, but I would want to be certain first. Does anyone know if Loro Piana canvasses their coats and also could you comment on their general build quality?

Fit
The Loro Piana size measurements are spot on with a coat that fits me well, so no concern there (probably wouldn't even need it altered). The Orazio is about 1.25-1.5 inches too wide in the chest (overall, not laying flat), but I'm thinking that it would be a fairly straightforward procedure to take in the sides (and maybe back if needed). The Ring Jacket coat, however, is about 21 inches armpit to armpit whereas my well fitting coats are all around 19.75. Do you guys think this is too much for a simple procedure to take in the side? Given that I want my coats around 19.75 inches pit to pit, what would be the general range that I should look for and is 21 inches too much? What kind of procedure am I looking at and how much should I expect to pay for it to be done by an experienced tailor? Is it even worth pursuing?

Color
My main concern with the Orazio coat is that since it's black, it won't be nearly as versatile as the other two. However, I have to admit that with the full cashmere fabric, it's a very deep and rich black and is quite alluring. I'm currently a student living in Ohio which is usually quite overcast and dreary so I'm thinking by itself the coat wouldn't really look too out of place. However, I don't wear suits (usually I wear chinos/khakis with leather boots and sweaters) so would a black overcoat be too formal for my kind of wardrobe and thus not a smart investment as I wouldn't have much occasion to wear it? Or am I thinking too much about it and should instead feel fine about wearing a black overcoat with my usual attire? Thoughts would be appreciated

If anyone read to this point, props to you and let me know what you think!

 

[dauster]

Personally, I would be shocked too if LP is not fully canvassed. I would just call a store and ask. I value fit over "perceived" quality and would go with what you think fits you the best - I am not sure if returns are an option since they are pre-owned.

Re the Orazio black coat - I think black is very versatile as a coat but obviously it comes down to preference and the rest of your wardrobe but would not be a concern that I would have.

 

[barryzhang27]

Personally, I would be shocked too if LP is not fully canvassed. I would just call a store and ask. I value fit over "perceived" quality and would go with what you think fits you the best - I am not sure if returns are an option since they are pre-owned.

Re the Orazio black coat - I think black is very versatile as a coat but obviously it comes down to preference and the rest of your wardrobe but would not be a concern that I would have.

Thanks. I was thinking along similar lines about Loro Piana, but I'll reach out to their customer service and see what they say. I'll take your suggestion about fit into mind- you make a good point.

Could you elaborate on your thoughts about black overcoats? For instance, what do you think looks good/doesn't look good with a black overcoat? Do you think it would be perceived as too formal in many occasions in a similar manner as say, a black suit potentially being perceived as inappropriate for more casual settings?

 

[dauster]

Thanks. I was thinking along similar lines about Loro Piana, but I'll reach out to their customer service and see what they say. I'll take your suggestion about fit into mind- you make a good point.

Could you elaborate on your thoughts about black overcoats? For instance, what do you think looks good/doesn't look good with a black overcoat? Do you think it would be perceived as too formal in many occasions in a similar manner as say, a black suit potentially being perceived as inappropriate for more casual settings?

let me answer you question with another question

what's your standard outfit that you are looking to wear with the (black) coat? for what occasions?

But even without that I think you can dress up a coat - black oxfords + suit and tie or baseball cap and maybe some white or black sneakers like common projects. Personally, I think both is fine but if you are worried about it and that means you are not going to wear the coat don't buy it because it's a good deal. Buy what you are comfortable with.

 

[barryzhang27]

let me answer you question with another question

what's your standard outfit that you are looking to wear with the (black) coat? for what occasions?

But even without that I think you can dress up a coat - black oxfords + suit and tie or baseball cap and maybe some white or black sneakers like common projects. Personally, I think both is fine but if you are worried about it and that means you are not going to wear the coat don't buy it because it's a good deal. Buy what you are comfortable with.

good question. My usual outfit in winter is a pair of leather boots (chukkas or cap toe in dark navy/brown/black) with light chinos (white, off white, stone, etc) or chinos and a thicker sweater (turtleneck, mock neck, crew neck, or shawl) in a solid color like dark green, grey, or off white. Probably throw in a scarf too. See, I *think the black overcoat would work, but I can't be certain unless I had it in hand. This person is open to returns though, so that's always a possibility (although one I'd prefer to avoid due to hassle). In any case, the dark black cashmere is very striking which is why I can't really get over it. What do you think? Do you own a black overcoat?

 

[dauster]

good question. My usual outfit in winter is a pair of leather boots (chukkas or cap toe in dark navy/brown/black) with light chinos (white, off white, stone, etc) or chinos and a thicker sweater (turtleneck, mock neck, crew neck, or shawl) in a solid color like dark green, grey, or off white. Probably throw in a scarf too. See, I *think the black overcoat would work, but I can't be certain unless I had it in hand. This person is open to returns though, so that's always a possibility (although one I'd prefer to avoid due to hassle). In any case, the dark black cashmere is very striking which is why I can't really get over it. What do you think? Do you own a black overcoat?

I think it would work too, I used to wear and own one but no longer need one here in the Bay Area - frankly I mostly wear Barbour jackets - even over my suits - which happens like twice a year. Usually suit jacket or regulars jacket is enough - doesn't get too cold. Back in Germany and when I worked in finance I always wore a black coat.

 

[barryzhang27]

I think it would work too, I used to wear and own one but no longer need one here in the Bay Area - frankly I mostly wear Barbour jackets - even over my suits - which happens like twice a year. Usually suit jacket or regulars jacket is enough - doesn't get too cold. Back in Germany and when I worked in finance I always wore a black coat.

Hmm I'll keep that in mind then. I can completely see how a black coat might look out of place in the Bay Area. Probably not so much in Northeastern Ohio where it's overcast and snowy most of the time. Thanks for the input

 

[comrade]

The LP coat looks skimpy to me. I also live in the Bay Area and have worn
an overcoat maybe once in 30 years. For me a raincoat over a sport coat
or suit suffices. But if you want an overcoat I would go with something
longer and fuller than the LP coat you show. Like this:

O'Connell's Lambswool Topcoat - Navy

A heavy supple melton wool.- 3-button front, center rear vent. - Notch lapel, lower flap pockets, 2 inside pockets.- 100% wool.- Fully lined. - Made in USA or Canada. *Regular fit - order your sport coat size - you'll still hav

oconnellsclothing.com

 

[barryzhang27]

The LP coat looks skimpy to me. I also live in the Bay Area and have worn
an overcoat maybe once in 30 years. For me a raincoat over a sport coat
or suit suffices. But if you want an overcoat I would go with something
longer and fuller than the LP coat you show. Like this:

O'Connell's Lambswool Topcoat - Navy

A heavy supple melton wool.- 3-button front, center rear vent. - Notch lapel, lower flap pockets, 2 inside pockets.- 100% wool.- Fully lined. - Made in USA or Canada. *Regular fit - order your sport coat size - you'll still hav

oconnellsclothing.com

I already own a few overcoats and one of them is quite heavy (22 ounce tweed fabric) so I wouldn't mind getting a coat that is lighter. Just means it would worn on different occasions.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Orazio is great, but I think black coats generally look bad. Not a fan of that Loro Piana coat's style. I don't know what RJ coat you are looking at, but they make a solid product. I think a model like this, or this should be nice. Don't know if the weight is suitable for your location.

As for size, I have two points. (1) Different coats are meant to fit differently. A 48 in one brand may have a pit to pit measurement of x inches and another may have a pit to pit measurement of x+3 inches and both are meant to fit someone the same size. (2) I generally find that a little extra room in an overcoat isn't a bad thing. You can take the chest in some, but you may not have to.

 

[rwtc]

LP's tailoring is piece dependent. Based on my personal experience, my LP pure cashmere pieces, including outerwear, consistently show wear faster than the other pieces in my wardrobe.

My black overcoats haven't been worn since the beginning of the pandemic because they're not that versatile. Too formal to wear it when going out. I've been wearing the navy / grey / beige coats instead.

The general consensus on SF is that Orazio Luciano has exceptional quality. However, a gentleman here on SF works/worked (no idea what he's doing now) for Kiton had his MTO piece dissected during a tailoring class at Kiton, in which their tailors found the piece was fused and the jacket was used as a sample of what not to do. Also, apparently the person that founded Orazio Luciano was kicked out of Kiton for doing something shady, however I don't remember the specifics. How to interpret this story is up to you. I do note that there are many members that do have a positive experience from them on the forum.

Can't complain about the quality of Ring Jacket from what I've heard, but can't speak from personal experience as I've never purchased anything from them.

I'd say choose the coat that would fit you the best and would be the most versatile. Likely no one will be identify the brand of the coat that you are wearing since it's a sartorial piece, so might as well get something that you'll be wearing a lot of without any reservations.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

LP's tailoring is piece dependent. Based on my personal experience, my LP pure cashmere pieces, including outerwear, consistently show wear faster than the other pieces in my wardrobe.

My black overcoats haven't been worn since the beginning of the pandemic because they're not that versatile. Too formal to wear it when going out. I've been wearing the navy / grey / beige coats instead.

The general consensus on SF is that Orazio Luciano has exceptional quality. However, a gentleman here on SF works/worked (no idea what he's doing now) for Kiton had his MTO piece dissected during a tailoring class at Kiton, in which their tailors found the piece was fused and the jacket was used as a sample of what not to do. Also, apparently the person that founded Orazio Luciano was kicked out of Kiton for doing something shady, however I don't remember the specifics. How to interpret this story is up to you. I do note that there are many members that do have a positive experience from them on the forum.

Can't complain about the quality of Ring Jacket from what I've heard, but can't speak from personal experience as I've never purchased anything from them.

I'd say choose the coat that would fit you the best and would be the most versatile. Likely no one will be identify the brand of the coat that you are wearing since it's a sartorial piece, so might as well get something that you'll be wearing a lot of without any reservations.

I had some exchanges with that guy. He's a character to say the least. I think he asked me if I was part of Al Qaeda or maybe it was the Taliban.

 

[rwtc]

I had some exchanges with that guy. He's a character to say the least. I think he asked me if I was part of Al Qaeda or maybe it was the Taliban.

Got to say that made me laugh

 

[barryzhang27]

Got to say that made me laugh

I saw those posts as well. Hard to miss them. Wouldn't really go off of testimony like that though...half of it was filled with conspiracy related nonsense. He kept mentioning about how he'd "studied" psychology and that Orazio was some kind of psychopath....

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Got to say that made me laugh

The thread is still there. Some comments may have been deleted, though.