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Comfortable Derby Dress Shoe Brands for Wide Problem Feet?

ConservativEccentric

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I normally wear bespoke orthopaedic shoes, but they are in dire need of resoling, and my cobbler is in a different country, so I need of a pair of stand-in shoes in the interim. The problem is that not only do I have extra wide feet, but I also have a genetic condition that causes my skin to be fragile and slow to heal, so where a new pair of shoes might cause some blisters during the break-in process for a normal person, for me they are more likely to tear off deep chunks of skin and leave me unable to wear anything but flip-flops for a month while waiting for my feet to heal.

Does anyone know decent shoe brands that are comfortable, have sizes for wide feet, use soft, breathable leather, and do not require breaking in? (I go for derbys rather than oxfords as I have high arches and walk quite a bit).
 
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Leiker

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KOz

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For optimal foot health, I highly recommend investing in a pair of barefoot shoes such as Vivo Barefoot. These shoes are designed to conform to the natural shape of your feet. They also feature a flexible sole with zero drop. One potential drawback is the unique aesthetic of these shoes.

If you prefer a more traditional look, Crockett and Jones offers unlined Superflex sole shoes. From the moment you slip them on, you'll feel as though you're wearing slippers. However, it is worth noting that Crockett and Jones shoes tend to have a slightly narrower fit, so it may be necessary to opt for a custom-made pair to ensure max comfort.
 
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bicycleradical

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Allen Edmonds goes up to EEE width.

Here's a derby, for example:

The majority of my shoe collection is from Allen Edmonds for this very reason. I can be sure that the shoe will fit when I buy a EEE width pair. They didn't take too much time to break in either however YMMV.
 

ConservativEccentric

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For optimal foot health, I highly recommend investing in a pair of barefoot shoes such as Vivo Barefoot. These shoes are designed to conform to the natural shape of your feet. They also feature a flexible sole with zero drop. One potential drawback is the unique aesthetic of these shoes.

If you prefer a more traditional look, Crockett and Jones offers unlined Superflex sole shoes. From the moment you slip them on, you'll feel as though you're wearing slippers. However, it is worth noting that Crockett and Jones shoes tend to have a slightly narrower fit, so it may be necessary to opt for a custom-made pair to ensure max comfort.
My bespoke shoes are in fact unlined barefoot shoes with flexible zero-drop leather soles made as derby dress boots; granted, they still look a little funky, but after ending up in so much pain that I could barely stand, let alone walk, from trying to wear off-the-rack shoes I bought based on aesthetics, I decided to sacrifice fashion for function and prioritise comfort and foot health.
 
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KOz

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It's a shame the aesthetics of traditional dress shoes are antithetical to foot health, but it's not worth torturing yourself.

One of the benefits of the dress code getting more casual is that wider toe box shoes are becoming more common. Maybe one day we'll be able to ditch the Brannock device entirely.
 

ConservativEccentric

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Indeed.

Though it is beneficial for foot health, I find the wider toe box to be very unattractive; unfortunately, my personal aesthetic preference for ultra-slim pointy-toed shoes is the exact opposite of my natural foot shape (my cobbler makes my shoes longer than my actual foot size just so that I can still have something of an almond shape at least).
 
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ConservativEccentric

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Allen Edmonds goes up to EEE width.

Here's a derby, for example:

The majority of my shoe collection is from Allen Edmonds for this very reason. I can be sure that the shoe will fit when I buy a EEE width pair. They didn't take too much time to break in either however YMMV.
Do they have an online retailer that ships to Europe?
 

rjc149

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I have very wide flipper feet and have worn Allen Edmonds Park and 5th Aves in EEE for years. I would not say the break-in was easy or painless -- I came close to giving up on the Park Ave's after limping home in them one evening. They're okay now, still pretty cramped at the end of the day or in hot weather when my feet are swollen. Both required fairly extensive stretching to be comfortable, despite being EEE. The 5th Aves are significantly roomier in the toes than the Parks, despite both being the same last and size. This could be a QC issue, or simply that the Park Aves are supposed be a little more sleek. I recommend trying on 2-3 pairs, if you can, of the exact same AE shoe to account for any QC or build variation.

I recently purchased a pair of brown derbies from Grant Stone. They make a EEE in their "Leo" last which is very roomy -- requiring me to size down from my normal 8. Break in was required, but only some soreness and slight bruising along the top of my foot, no open wounds. I put in some tongue pads to fill some of the volume (I have low arches). They're very comfortable now.

Alden offers some of their shoes in EEEE width. These would probably require some breaking in. I can't speak from experience. I'm not spending $500 on shoes.

Unfortunately, many shoe brands which are aesthetically fetching to me are off limits due to not offering a EEE width. I've accepted my options for GY welt shoes as being limited to AE and Grant Stone.
 

ConservativEccentric

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I have very wide flipper feet and have worn Allen Edmonds Park and 5th Aves in EEE for years. I would not say the break-in was easy or painless -- I came close to giving up on the Park Ave's after limping home in them one evening. They're okay now, still pretty cramped at the end of the day or in hot weather when my feet are swollen. Both required fairly extensive stretching to be comfortable, despite being EEE. The 5th Aves are significantly roomier in the toes than the Parks, despite both being the same last and size. This could be a QC issue, or simply that the Park Aves are supposed be a little more sleek. I recommend trying on 2-3 pairs, if you can, of the exact same AE shoe to account for any QC or build variation.

I recently purchased a pair of brown derbies from Grant Stone. They make a EEE in their "Leo" last which is very roomy -- requiring me to size down from my normal 8. Break in was required, but only some soreness and slight bruising along the top of my foot, no open wounds. I put in some tongue pads to fill some of the volume (I have low arches). They're very comfortable now.

Alden offers some of their shoes in EEEE width. These would probably require some breaking in. I can't speak from experience. I'm not spending $500 on shoes.

Unfortunately, many shoe brands which are aesthetically fetching to me are off limits due to not offering a EEE width. I've accepted my options for GY welt shoes as being limited to AE and Grant Stone.
I have been eyeing Allen Edmonds Boulevard cap-toe dress shoe, but unfortunately I do not think I can try on their shoes before ordering as I live in Europe and do not know any retailers in my city who carry the brand.

I probably should not risk a shoe that is difficult to break in considering how fragile my feet are; the last off-the-rack pair, open-laced and in the correct size no less, took the skin off my heel, ankle, and little toe and pressed down so hard on my arches that two years later I still have discoloured indents on my feet.

After having bespoke shoes made, the high cost is well worth the difference in comfort in my opinion, but I do not want to spend that much on a pair of shoes that are just to be worn for the period it takes for my bespoke ones to be resoled and sent back. Maybe I should just swallow my sartorial pride and settle on casual shoes for that purpose; after all, I would rather avoid a repeat of ending up in bandages and flip-flops due to my chosen shoes proving unwearable.
 
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KOz

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If the Crockett and Jones lasts fit you, definitely consider superflex sole models - you can bend those shoes into a u shape with no worries.
 

ConservativEccentric

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If the Crockett and Jones lasts fit you, definitely consider superflex sole models - you can bend those shoes into a u shape with no worries.
I have not tried Crockett and Jones on before, and I like the look of their superflex Waterfords, but the toe shape seems pretty narrow in the pictures on their website.
 

ConservativEccentric

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As an alternative to Vivo Barefoot, do you have any experience with Groundies? Their Milano Men chukka style boots look nice for barefoot shoes.
 

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