CM combinations and silhouettes constructive improvement thread

[Crispyj]

For the next, I suggest wider lapels and a higher gorge.

Why higher gorge and wider lapels? The proportions are pretty good on the guy.

Doesn't he just needs to remove the paddings in his shoulders?

 

[GoldenBrahms]

Really like this silhouette on you - I’m a little envious of you guys who can get good fits OTR and luckily for you Cavour seems to work well for you so you options should be plentiful.

Pale blue shirt is a winning color. Always hard to judge this with neck up pictures but I do wonder if a slightly taller collar might work a little better. Agree with the others on the tie but I’ll refrain from making suggestions since my tie selections generally would make the guys in the soporific tie thread yawn.

Hey, thanks for the feedback. Honestly, OTR is a bit tricky for me. Despite wearing a size 38 jacket my chest measurement is usually 39". but can be as high as 40" when my weight fluctuates due to lifting/diet. I buy a 38 because I have kind of narrow shoulders and a 38 tends to fit me well at the shoulders. As a result, I usually don't get lapels that lay flat because my chest is a bit prominent. I've gotten kind of lucky with the Cavour jacket (and 1-2 other brands) - they seem to be cut fairly generous in the chest. To be fair, this isn't really an issue in my daily usage because I so rarely actually have my jacket buttoned. Spier Contemporary seems to work well for me, too but I honestly think I like Cavour better - it's just more expensive, but I can live with that because the sale prices are pretty good for fully canvassed jackets. I'll also add that sleeve pitch is my second biggest problem - Spier nails sleeve pitch for me, and Cavour is only ever so slightly off (and I mean slightly - impossible to tell in any non-robot pose situation).

I haven't tried Cavour trousers, but I have read that they are very slim and a medium rise which I've learned doesn't work on me as someone with a longer torso and shorter legs (I get my trousers hemmed to 29.5"). I actually emailed them about the thigh measurements - they are around a 24" thigh in a size IT48. Until they offer suiting with a more relaxed fit in the leg and a higher rise, I'll probably just stick to their jackets. At any rate, I'm more of a sportcoat/odd trousers guy, as suits would be a bit out of place in my work environment.

I have a long neck (which looks even longer because of how I cropped the picture), but I agree, a taller collar might work a bit better. Despite what you say about your tie selection, I'd be happy to hear your suggestions. I tend to gravitate towards more boring ties anyway

Nice combo. Jacket fits well. For the next, I suggest wider lapels and a higher gorge.
Re: Personal details. I weigh around 160-5 these days am 5' 8" and wear IT 54 or 56
jacket and am not fat. Body types really vary. Twenty years ago when I ran 20-30 miles
a week I wore IT52. US 42.

I appreciate the feedback but not sure I agree with you here as I tend to prefer moderate/conservative proportions. To each their own.

 

[GoldenBrahms]

Why higher gorge and wider lapels? The proportions are pretty good on the guy.

Doesn't he just needs to remove the paddings in his shoulders?

I believe he was referring to my post? At least that's who he quoted. To be clear, though, the jacket I'm wearing has no padding in the shoulders.

 

[Crispyj]

I believe he was referring to my post? At least that's who he quoted. To be clear, though, the jacket I'm wearing has no padding in the shoulders.

I know there's no padding in the shoulders
But comrade doesn't, because according to him every jacket we post has padding in the shoulders.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Could you kindly post pics of you wearing a 56 jacket? I have seen you post comments like this a few times on this forum and frankly I'm completely baffled.

I used to fit very well into an IT56 when I was 6'0" (still am) and 235lbs...ie. when I had 4 inches and 70 - yes seventy! - pounds on you. Cannot for the life of me understand how anyone at 5'8"and 165 could dream of wearing an IT56.

I dropped 30lbs recently - now at 205lbs. My 56 jackets I'm having to get taken in...they are too big. And I am now ordering 54, which fits perfectly at my new weight...which is still 40lbs heavier than you...and still 4 inches taller.

I think only some pictures can help me understand how you are wearing these sizes. I cannot be the only one here having trouble making sense of this.

Thanks!

Please. Because all I can imagine with those measurements and weight walking around in a 56 is this

 

[circumspice]

So, years ago when I got into menswear the trend was very slim fitting clothing, low rise trousers, and short jackets. At the pricepoint I could afford, it was difficult to find clothing in the cut that I would have liked. CM seems to have embraced a more moderate fit that emphasizes clean lines and drape, and I’ve been trying to find brands that fit me well off the rack with only minimal alterations. By minimal, I mean hemming the trousers and shortening the sleeves.

Green also seems to be in style - something that I had a hard time getting on board with, but I recently purchased my first green sport coat and am quite happy with it. Looking for advice on refining my fit, but also for critiques and suggestions on color combinations. Would also be interested in critique and suggestions for pattern combinations as that has long been a weak spot for me (I tend to play it safe).

Also open to any general feedback that comes to mind, of course.

Jacket: Very soft shoulders. Concerned it may be too short and not sure if I’m totally sold on the recent move to very soft tailoring.
Trousers: Tan, Single forward pleat, 1.75”
Cuff (too big?).
Shirt: Light blue.
Tie: Navy with a waffle-like texture, gold check.

Personal details: 5’9”, 160lbs. Size IT48 jacket and trouser. US size 38R jacket. These trousers are more like a US size 30-31 (32” measured waist), which is why I was surprised that my seat and thighs fit.

I think the jacket length here is perfectly acceptable - if you were a bespoke customer, having the next one lengthened by 1-1.5 cm would be personal preference. Trying to lengthen this on a RTW piece feels a bit obsessive.

The tie I think is a counter factual to the norm of not having large grid patterns compete with large grid patterns - the coat's pattern is so subtle this actually works. If the coat's colors were more contrasting, I think this wouldn't work.

 

[GoldenBrahms]

I think the jacket length here is perfectly acceptable - if you were a bespoke customer, having the next one lengthened by 1-1.5 cm would be personal preference. Trying to lengthen this on a RTW piece feels a bit obsessive.

The tie I think is a counter factual to the norm of not having large grid patterns compete with large grid patterns - the coat's pattern is so subtle this actually works. If the coat's colors were more contrasting, I think this wouldn't work.

Thanks for the kind note and for your insights about the tie vs the jacket's subtle check, I'll keep that in mind! I agree - 1 to 1.5cm longer would be perfect for me as I have a longer torso (for which high rise trousers have been a godsend). Outside of my robot pose, I don't tend to notice the very slightly short length so it's good enough for me, just not perfect. I've found, though, that the slightly shorter length and soft tailoring make it much easier to wear this jacket (and others of a similar length) with denim when I'm going for a casual look. The jackets that I do have that are slightly longer and feature more structure uniformly look terrible with denim.

 

[Despos]

Could you kindly post pics of you wearing a 56 jacket? I have seen you post comments like this a few times on this forum and frankly I'm completely baffled.

I used to fit very well into an IT56 when I was 6'0" (still am) and 235lbs...ie. when I had 4 inches and 70 - yes seventy! - pounds on you. Cannot for the life of me understand how anyone at 5'8"and 165 could dream of wearing an IT56.

I dropped 30lbs recently - now at 205lbs. My 56 jackets I'm having to get taken in...they are too big. And I am now ordering 54, which fits perfectly at my new weight...which is still 40lbs heavier than you...and still 4 inches taller.

I think only some pictures can help me understand how you are wearing these sizes. I cannot be the only one here having trouble making sense of this.

Thanks!

@BlueSteel
to understand the sizing notice he wrote IT56 or IT54. He is using European/Italian sizing. The USA equivalent is 46 & 44 chest size. Subtracting 10 from the IT size gets you in the ballpark

 

[Despos]

Thanks for the kind note and for your insights about the tie vs the jacket's subtle check, I'll keep that in mind! I agree - 1 to 1.5cm longer would be perfect for me as I have a longer torso (for which high rise trousers have been a godsend). Outside of my robot pose, I don't tend to notice the very slightly short length so it's good enough for me, just not perfect. I've found, though, that the slightly shorter length and soft tailoring make it much easier to wear this jacket (and others of a similar length) with denim when I'm going for a casual look. The jackets that I do have that are slightly longer and feature more structure uniformly look terrible with denim.

Really makes a difference visually when fitting a jacket over trousers or jeans. I made the same comment here when you posted your fittings.

 

[BlueSteel]

@BlueSteel teel
to understand the sizing notice he wrote IT56 or IT54. He is using European/Italian sizing. The USA equivalent is 46 & 44 chest size. Subtracting 10 from the IT size gets you in the ballpark

Hi Despos,

Yes, I understand the conversion because those are my sizes that I wear.

What confuses me is not the size conversion - it is how a gent of his relatively small stature/size is wearing these large garments.

 

[Despos]

I know there's no padding in the shoulders
But comrade doesn't, because according to him every jacket we post has padding in the shoulders.

So many comments about shoulders/ shoulder pads but I haven't commented.
When I see a clean shoulder line like the jacket discussed here, I think the shoulder is cut perfectly parallel to the client's shoulder line. No pressure on the shoulder point or anywhere along the shoulder. I think the canvass is very well constructed and shaped. I think the craftsmanship is a higher level.
A well cut and constructed shoulder looks smooth like this.
This is not related to using a shoulder pad or not using a pad.
When I see a bit of rise/lift at the shoulder point, it makes me smile. It allows you to move within the jacket without pressure.
When I see a convex shoulder line, makes me frown. The jacket isn't following the natural line of the shoulder.

 

[GoldenBrahms]

So many comments about shoulders/ shoulder pads but I haven't commented.
When I see a clean shoulder line like the jacket discussed here, I think the shoulder is cut perfectly parallel to the client's shoulder line. No pressure on the shoulder point or anywhere along the shoulder. I think the canvass is very well constructed and shaped. I think the craftsmanship is a higher level.
A well cut and constructed shoulder looks smooth like this.
This is not related to using a shoulder pad or not using a pad.
When I see a bit of rise/lift at the shoulder point, it makes me smile. It allows you to move within the jacket without pressure.
When I see a convex shoulder line, makes me frown. The jacket isn't following the natural line of the shoulder.

I'm with you on the shoulder - I got lucky with this jacket from Cavour (Spier shoulders also tend to fit me well, though they have a tad more structure than Cavour's, and are ever so slightly wider). I always buy my jackets based on shoulder fit, rather than chest size. In a previous post, I noted that this sometimes causes issues for me with rtw jackets, but Cavour's house cut seems to agree with me.

 

[Despos]

I'm with you on the shoulder - I got lucky with this jacket from Cavour (Spier shoulders also tend to fit me well, though they have a tad more structure than Cavour's, and are ever so slightly wider). I always buy my jackets based on shoulder fit, rather than chest size. In a previous post, I noted that this sometimes causes issues for me with rtw jackets, but Cavour's house cut seems to agree with me.

Stick with brands that work best with your body type and have the expression/silhouette you like

 

[emptym]

@BlueSteel and @Jmr928 There's a few pics of comrade in the old SF meetup threads, such as here (beard).

@GoldenBrahms, I was thinking something in red, blue, or maybe brown would look good, not necessarily large stripes, but maybe something like these:

Something with medallions should work too.

The tie I think is a counter factual to the norm of not having large grid patterns compete with large grid patterns - the coat's pattern is so subtle this actually works. If the coat's colors were more contrasting, I think this wouldn't work.

This is a good point. I don't think the tie doesn't work there. I just don't like checked ties in general.

Btw, I was thinking of one style preference I have that's related to @Jmr928's point about responding to one's body type. Since I'm fairly thin, I tend to prefer rounded lines: patch pockets, lapels with some belly, curved quarters, and natural shoulders. (so, convex? Maybe you could explain more, @Despos. I remember this old thread by @jefferyd, but I never thought natural or knocked down shoulders affected movement or comfort.) I think they soften fairly angular appearance. And I think jackets like that make one look a little more approachable, more sweater than suit of armor.

 

[Crispyj]

So many comments about shoulders/ shoulder pads but I haven't commented.
When I see a clean shoulder line like the jacket discussed here, I think the shoulder is cut perfectly parallel to the client's shoulder line. No pressure on the shoulder point or anywhere along the shoulder. I think the canvass is very well constructed and shaped. I think the craftsmanship is a higher level.
A well cut and constructed shoulder looks smooth like this.
This is not related to using a shoulder pad or not using a pad.
When I see a bit of rise/lift at the shoulder point, it makes me smile. It allows you to move within the jacket without pressure.
When I see a convex shoulder line, makes me frown. The jacket isn't following the natural line of the shoulder.

How are my shoulder lines?

Spoiler: Fits