Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

[anaxagoras]

this "voidness" is in sharp disharmony with the upper part

As my old friend Parmenides used to say about cardigans: “The unseen harmony is stronger than the seen one.”

 

[Bespoke DJP]

As my old friend Parmenides used to say about cardigans: “The unseen harmony is stronger than the seen one.”

I cannot / will not disagree with a quote of a gentleman bearing the name of a Greek philosopher, more to that, quoted by another gentleman, in this Forum, also bearing the name of another Greek philosopher!


Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[fabricateurialist]

• 107

Which is better, LP baby cashmere or BC cashmere?

for me, the BC's has held up better than LP over the years, even if they are not as soft initially - that said, baby cashmere is finer by definition, which makes it naturally less durable, both great products

 

[Johnny80]

• 107

for me, the BC's has held up better than LP over the years, even if they are not as soft initially - that said, baby cashmere is finer by definition, which makes it naturally less durable, both great products

Depends
- like i said and is still true to this day, LP is top tier Grade A, baby cashmere is almost always around 13-13.5µ but the drawback compared to the Grade A+ like Colombo is the fibre lenght in most of their cashmere....they are not always around 40mm in length but we saw around 32 also, a lot..so yes, an 32mm length will be less durable no matter if its pure cashmere (16µ and up) or baby cashmere 13-13.5µ...the key here is constancy among their knit.
An LP baby cashmere 13µ+40mm fibre is the highest durable knit you can find, so the finer cashmere doesnt mean less durable in this case...Kid Cashmere always have 13µ+38mm-40mm fibre and that is best you can find.
WL for example is durable but they dont have in general the raw material that LP or Colombo has to make an sub 14µ fibre but their fibre length is on point, always around 35mm-38mm long
Hope this helps a bit
To the user question, Loro Piana baby cashmere is just one type of cashmere, is the 13-13.5µ cashmere, while on Brunello C. they have a lot of type of cashmere, the standard 14.8µ pure cashmere with treatment on their knit to show and glow beautiful in their colour combinations, they also have 1kg heavy knit pure cashmere made from natural bio cashmere etc
Apples to Apples 2 ply baby cashmere to 2 ply top BC i would go with LP baby cashmere, the finnese of the baby cashmere is real while on BC they treat with the dying process to achieve that glows and shyness. Dont get me wrong, here we are talking small things, both are great houses, with excellent knits .

 

[Johnny80]

I agree.

In fact, without the side pockets, the lower part of the garment not only does it look "bare" by itself, but also this "voidness" is in sharp disharmony with the upper part which has two full design elements: the dominant one being the shawl collar, and the secondary one being the saddle shoulders.

Merry Christmas, gentlemen, to you and your beloved ones!


Best,

Dimitris

You have great eyes my friend. Yes, if that garment has indeed side pockets at least they could make the cuts more to the front of the garment to have a bit of complexity to the front and not to have that voidness effect

 

[Johnny80]

Which is better, LP baby cashmere or BC cashmere?

In short terms LP, but not by much. Even if in general LP is better apples to apples, if you can find natural color BC cashmere i would go for that if LP doesnt have it. For the others colours i would chose LP. BC also have heavy knits and blends that are worth it. From BC i would take their feather cashmere with their tubular structure

 

[stifler]

In short terms LP, but not by much. Even if in general LP is better apples to apples, if you can find natural color BC cashmere i would go for that if LP doesnt have it. For the others colours i would chose LP. BC also have heavy knits and blends that are worth it. From BC i would take their feather cashmere with their tubular structure

Thanks. How is Tom Ford cashmere?

 

[Johnny80]

Thanks. How is Tom Ford cashmere?

While the most knits are made in italy, they use Scotland yarn. In general are good enough

 

[stifler]

While the most knits are made in italy, they use Scotland yarn. In general are good enough

Who makes their knits? Is it Zegna? I thought Agnona makes Zegna knits since Zegna bought them. Is Agnona good?

 

[fabricateurialist]

Who makes their knits? Is it Zegna? I thought Agnona makes Zegna knits since Zegna bought them. Is Agnona good?

now I'm curious too, since my rep told me that Zegna makes TF's 100% cashmere, but he never confirmed blends

as for Agnona, only got one piece recently and it's extraordinary, can't say anything about longevity/durabilty yet though

 

[stifler]

now I'm curious too, since my rep told me that Zegna makes TF's 100% cashmere, but he never confirmed blends

as for Agnona, only got one piece recently and it's extraordinary, can't say anything about longevity/durabilty yet though

The Agnona pieces I have are awesome. I would say comparable to LP and BC. I really want to try Colombo.

 

[rwtc]

From BC i would take their feather cashmere with their tubular structure

100% agreed. Their cashmere feather yarn is exceptional.

 

[Nebbiolo]

by in-fabric i just mean that the fabric creates the bottom of the bag on its own ...

when i've done set in pockets i incorporate a cast-off at the bottom and seam the sides . so everything wants to flatten and so i don't tack down . it's bombproof so far as holding anything reliably .

Still a bit above my head... But you definitely should make me a cardigan!

so far as using regular thread on a wool knit i've done this for buttons but i also feel it is the very weakest part of the project at that spot as a result . i haven't had any issue tho i would prefer to use a softer yarn .

I feel the same way. I replaced the stuffy leather buttons with horn ones, but it does feel a bit weak. I'm thinking about adding a button on the back, which would probably make the whole thing stronger.

another idea might be to attach a simple woven lining which you see on a lot of vintage cardigans , often the knit gives way to a sewn in woven bag that finishes the pocket . the nice thing about woven is it won't stretch with stuff in it .

Could you post a picture by any chance?

honestly the twist in the shawl really bothers me , this is brioche i think ? it shouldn't rack like that , i've used that pattern to neutralize a pretty biased single it should be fluffy and inert .

Well, this is what the seller (AHume) had to say: "the stitch in the fabric is just from the production process and is just the way this product is stitched and so this can often happen however it is not consider a fault... The collar is not twisted as due to the way it is made it is not possible for this to happen. We think this is just from sitting in transit and should hopefully drop after a bit of wear."

 

[Bespoke DJP]

You have great eyes my friend. Yes, if that garment has indeed side pockets at least they could make the cuts more to the front of the garment to have a bit of complexity to the front and not to have that voidness effect

Thank you!

It's all about harmony. I believe that designers should bear in mind that they have to compensate for a heavily-designed garment's upper part with at least one element in its lower part. Fortunately enough, side pockets coming always as a pair - hence two elements - provide in an elegant manner a very nice solution.


Best to all, and again, Merry Christmas!

Dimitris

 

[lindathomas]

Acrylic has the same properties as cashmere and it's in your price range.