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Henry Carter

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Personally I thought Leather Soul was overrated, but that was after I visited places like Cable Car Clothiers in SF.

Me too, went to the one in Honolulu a few years back (which has since moved I think). Lot's of nice shoes, but no um soul.... (pun intended)

Service was very average in-store but then again, I'm not a japanese businessman so not their walk in target demo.
 

sliq

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Gerry Nelson

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Gents, going to PJs for my first appointment on Saturday. I'm looking at getting a business suit for the warmer weather (i.e. Nov through to end of March) and a shirt to wear with it.. I'll probably take delivery in Jan, so it will need to be able to cope with the height of summer.
I've been taking photos of my current suits and shirts to show htem what I have, and started to make some notes about what details I'm looking for. Is there any other prep you'd suggest to make best use of my and their time?
Also, any particular fabric books you'd recommend?
Hi CD,

As Pink Socks has already said, just have an idea of what you'd like to use the suit for and the kind of colour you had in mind. Some other things you might like to think about are:
  • the kind of pockets you'd like (welted vs patch),
  • peak or notch lapels?
  • wide or extra wide lapels?
  • the colour of the lining
  • the type of buttons
  • belt loops or side adjusters and/or brace buttons
  • the type of shoulder on the jacket
  • would you consider a waistcoat for this one?
  • Cuffs on the trousers?
  • Spare pair of trousers?
  • You might also want to ask about what you get with the hand finishing option - I understand the trouser waistband is different.

That's all that comes to mind right now but in any case, Tom or Matt will take you through the options and choices. I wouldn't be too worried about the fabric books - once you have a purpose in mind, they'll bring out the relevant books. Tom can also advise what kind of colour would work with your skin tone as well.

I'd suggest making notes of what options you end up choosing because it's easy to forget once you leave.

I'm very excited for you and I hope you have a most enjoyable time on Saturday!
 

Dusty Brogues

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I prefer wearing them over my Kiton as the colours are more playful. The other PS that i like are the Vanda vintage kimono silk... They just have lovely drape and life that really pops


Hi Romp

Out of curiosity, your Kiton, is it part of a suit, or a sports coat?
 

Manuhiri

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These are watermarks right? thats normal for a natural tanned leather... not a fault of the bag, rather a misunderstanding of the user ... if you want to play the patina game this is what happens.

The bag will darken over time and eventually you wont even notice them.

Im a big il bisonte fan and ive had the odd water marks too

EDIT: please verify - these are watermarks? the leather doesnt look coloured, rather its treated with an oil
Yes they are marks where water has caused the dye to run. Lotuff leather has confirmed that it is dye and that it is not expected to run.
 

Prince of Paisley

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Hi CD,

As Pink Socks has already said, just have an idea of what you'd like to use the suit for and the kind of colour you had in mind. Some other things you might like to think about are:
  • the kind of pockets you'd like (welted vs patch),
  • peak or notch lapels?
  • wide, extra wide or "flying nun" lapels?
  • the colour of the lining
  • the type of buttons
  • belt loops or side adjusters and/or brace buttons
  • the type of shoulder on the jacket
  • would you consider a waistcoat for this one?
  • Cuffs on the trousers?
  • Spare pair of trousers?
  • You might also want to ask about what you get with the hand finishing option - I understand the trouser waistband is different.

That's all that comes to mind right now but in any case, Tom or Matt will take you through the options and choices. I wouldn't be too worried about the fabric books - once you have a purpose in mind, they'll bring out the relevant books. Tom can also advise what kind of colour would work with your skin tone as well.

I'd suggest making notes of what options you end up choosing because it's easy to forget once you leave.

I'm very excited for you and I hope you have a most enjoyable time on Saturday!


I have the perfect photo for the PJ boys to work off...

1000
 

Plestor

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JM, Next friday should be fine at this time too.

I quite liked LS (HI) when I was over there surfing -- Ended up with some EGs -- when I was there, but then again I prefer a hands off kind of service for rtw.

I'd also mention that (apprently) they're very useful for actually getting timely service out of EG Top Drawer.
 

ColdEyedPugilist

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Gents, going to PJs for my first appointment on Saturday. I'm looking at getting a business suit for the warmer weather (i.e. Nov through to end of March) and a shirt to wear with it.. I'll probably take delivery in Jan, so it will need to be able to cope with the height of summer.
I've been taking photos of my current suits and shirts to show htem what I have, and started to make some notes about what details I'm looking for. Is there any other prep you'd suggest to make best use of my and their time?
Also, any particular fabric books you'd recommend?


Have fun, mate; it's an experience!

For shirting, I'd go with an oxford from the TM Silverline books.

For suiting, the Dugdale worsted fabrics are very nice.

Personally, for business, I'd go with the following specs - dark gray or blue, 3-roll-2, roped shoulder, welted breast pocket (barchetta if it's in hand-finished) and flapped, welted hip pockets, fully lined (as you can them request a pocket for your cellphone), and pants with side adjusters for a smoother, cleaner look (also gives you the option of wearing braces and believe me, once you do, there's no going back to belts)

Additional considerations:

1) How fitted do you like your garments? The PJ default is to go with a pretty exact fit, and that might not be the best thing if your weight tends to fluctuate a lot. Make sure you discuss this with Patrick.

2) Low-rise flat front pants may be the inthing, but more and more, I'm leaning towards pants with pleats and a higher rise for my next commission as a) there's the comfort factor, b) I don't like the wrinkling that goes on at crotch-level with flat fronts and c) I'll be wearing braces and therefore, require a higher rise.
 

Journeyman

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^^ I especially can't stand wrist "accessories" (other than a watch) - in my humble opinion, they make you look like you're a dirty backpacker at a Full Moon Party.


+1. I've seen the unrefinery piece before, and tend to agree!

I like some of Patrick Johnson's style, but really didn't like the plaited cord that he used to hold his glasses (as shown in the pic above) - particularly as, just as in the pic above, it seemed to be connected to the wrong arm of his glasses.

I've noticed that Alan See, of The Armoury, has unfortunately started wearing a cord from his lapel buttonhole recently, which he apparently uses as a keychain.

Then again, there have been some other egregious things going on at The Armoury lately, too: http://lnsee.tumblr.com/image/35333310035

His co-worker/employee really needs to do something with that tie - and why on earth is he wearing clip-on braces? (Although, having said that, I was surprised to see Ethan wearing clip-on braces in one of the photos on his "Rugged Old Salt" blog a month or two back.)
 
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