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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Shambles

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I invest in quality properly-fitted clothing primarily because I enjoy the look and confidence it grants me -- but also to avoid embarrassing my wife.
smile.gif


I'd reiterate ridethecliche's advice above: a crisp white pocket square (linen or cotton, not silk) would really cap off the outfit. If you don't have one, I think even a plain handkerchief from Jos Bank would look better than nothing. Kent Wang's twenty-buck special has done right by me.

I'll do a white pocket square with it; I have a few nice ones. And yes, I completely agree with your first point; I love dressing well as often as possible. I'm just facing a last minute situation this time in which all I can do is wear a nice fitting suit rather than an ill-fitting rental tux. Like I said yesterday (probably a page or so back), this is the first of many engagements like this, and I'm fairly young, so I don't currently own a tux but am now in the market for one, as I'll probably have a few of these last minute invitations fall into my lap each year.

My question about the scarf was unanswered, I believe. I'm in the South, but we're talking cold weather as far as the South is concerned. As it stands, I'm going navy suit, white shirt, white PS, and either the black tie or maroon with brown pattern. Can I get a few opinions on the tie choice and whether or not a scarf would be appropriate?

I guess at this point I should just come out and say this: I've only just started updating my wardrobe from "college athlete" (sweatpants, hoodies, university shirts, etc) to proper men's clothes as of last year. I've come a long way, but still have a ways to go. So I'm honestly looking for all opinions on things like this to help now and later. As a sartorial newborn, I appreciate all advice.
 

Veremund

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As a sartorial newborn, I appreciate all advice.


For nighttime occasions, you'll always be well-served with a white shirt and white pocket square, and a dark (navy) suit and black tie. And in the daytime, you can't really ever go wrong with that same navy suit. So tip number one is to have a sharp navy suit that is very well-tailored. If you got that, you're sitting pretty.
 

michaelyork

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Can someone tell me what type of coat this is? This is not a duffel, is it?

It's herringbone wool. There is no vent at the back, and no belt or faux-belt or belt-like stitching at the back in the waist area.

 

WickedKlown

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With a white pocket square, is it ok to have a colored edge on it? Also is a very light or light blue shirt ok for a black pinstripe suit.
 
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TweedyProf

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I'm torn about this jacket. Crappy pic, but it's a light brown/tan POW with sky blue overcheck. Unstructured. Fit is not bad: ok at shoulders and chest, I think, could be nipped at the waist. Button stance is a little higher than I would like but the picture exaggerates that a bit (3roll2). Sleeve needs to be taken in a touch,, quarter inch. Blue shirt would look beater, but I was wearing white today.

Question: I can't really think of trousers. The trouser there is a light gray flannel; navy would work perhaps, but I don't have any navy wool trousers. White or even cream, but that seems too restrictive. Maybe dark brown, or possibly even charcoal. But versatility is an issue.

Thoughts?
 
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12345Michael54321

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Originally Posted by WickedKlown

With a white pocket square, is it ok to have a colored edge on it?
It can be.
Also is a very light or light blue shirt ok for a black pinstripe suit.
I'll refrain from suggesting that the only thing okay for a black pinstripe suit is fire, since I see no need to return to the whole "black suit is terrible/black suit is fine" thing for the thousandth time. So for the sake of argument, let's say a black pinstripe suit is an acceptable choice. Such being the case, I suppose a very light blue shirt can be okay. And I specify "very light," since typically, with a suit, one will tend to be much better off wearing very light shirt colors. As a general sort of guideline, the darker the shirt, the worse the man will look. (And before anyone jumps in and insists that this isn't always, 100% true, let me point out that that's why I wrote "typically" and "general sort," as opposed to "without exception" and "universal.") Personally, if I wore black pinstripe suits, I think I'd usually wear them with white shirts, rather than colored shirts. And opt for adding a splash of color in the form of a tie or a pocket square (possibly picking up the color of the pinstripes, assuming the pinstripes aren't white or grey), in order to keep the whole thing from looking overly monochrome and severe. But as I don't wear black pinstripe suits, I won't claim to have given this matter any great amount of thought.
 

TM79

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I'm torn about this jacket. Crappy pic, but it's a light brown/tan POW with sky blue overcheck. Unstructured. Fit is not bad: ok at shoulders and chest, I think, could be nipped at the waist. Button stance is a little higher than I would like but the picture exaggerates that a bit (3roll2). Sleeve needs to be taken in a touch,, quarter inch. Blue shirt would look beater, but I was wearing white today. Question: I can't really think of trousers. The trouser there is a light gray flannel; navy would work perhaps, but I don't have any navy wool trousers. White or even cream, but that seems too restrictive. Maybe dark brown, or possibly even charcoal. But versatility is an issue. Thoughts?
I'm hoping for some good answers here, too, because I see a lot of jackets I like in this vein but they don't appear to be very versatile at all. Putting this against charcoal or dark brown just does not look right to my eyes. I think light beige, cream, light and mid greys (not charcoal), some blues, olive shades ... those would all seem to work. Just curious if there are more opinions.
 
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WickedKlown

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Originally Posted by WickedKlown


It can be.
I'll refrain from suggesting that the only thing okay for a black pinstripe suit is fire, since I see no need to return to the whole "black suit is terrible/black suit is fine" thing for the thousandth time. So for the sake of argument, let's say a black pinstripe suit is an acceptable choice.

Such being the case, I suppose a very light blue shirt can be okay. And I specify "very light," since typically, with a suit, one will tend to be much better off wearing very light shirt colors. As a general sort of guideline, the darker the shirt, the worse the man will look. (And before anyone jumps in and insists that this isn't always, 100% true, let me point out that that's why I wrote "typically" and "general sort," as opposed to "without exception" and "universal.")

Personally, if I wore black pinstripe suits, I think I'd usually wear them with white shirts, rather than colored shirts. And opt for adding a splash of color in the form of a tie or a pocket square (possibly picking up the color of the pinstripes, assuming the pinstripes aren't white or grey), in order to keep the whole thing from looking overly monochrome and severe. But as I don't wear black pinstripe suits, I won't claim to have given this matter any great amount of thought.
Thanks for the reply. One of the reason I went with a black pinstripe suit is I've always liked them, my wife likes them. The shirt I have is a light powder blue.
 

ridethecliche

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I have a quick question on how jackets should fit.

I just got two tweed blazers back from the tailors and I can feel the seams in the back start to pull if I cross my arms. This doesn't happen with my other tweed blazer that wasn't altered and doesn't happen with my 'regular' blazers as well.

I only wanted to have the waist brought in and I guess it sounds like the back is tighter now too. I guess what I'm trying to ask is: should I expect the back to get tighter (i.e. feel it pull when I cross my arms) if I have some waist suppression? I should be able to expect to wear a med-thick sweater underneath it right?

Thanks.

Hoping someone sees this. Thanks!
 

TweedyProf

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I'm hoping for some good answers here, too, because I see a lot of jackets I like in this vein but they don't appear to be very versatile at all.

Putting this against charcoal or dark brown just does not look right to my eyes.

I think light beige, cream, light and mid greys (not charcoal), some blues, olive shades ... those would all seem to work. Just curious if there are more opinions.

I think very light colors will work though I didn't try. The combination in the pic is ok, but didn't jump out at me as "yes, definitely". A similar coat for spring, in cream or white would work well, but again, that's a specific pair of trousers that might not be more generally useful for people with limited resources.

I like a rich olive as a suggestion. I had tried mid gray, but the tones are too close so no go. Charcoal also didn't look right. I think a certain darker brown might work, but not ideal. Navy might, but again: olive, navy or white. Works well if you have an expansive wardrobe wrt trousers, which I don't. Those colors for trousers seem narrow in their use to me.

Having thought about it a little more, I think that this isn't the sort of jacket that serves as one of one's first set of jackets. So, it's going back.

Still, I'm with TM79, about other suggestions for trouser colors.
 

TweedyProf

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One more thing about that jacket. It is not constructed, no shoulder padding. What's amazing is that I have a terrible bump on both shoulders due to the way that my shoulders are built, but that is barely visible. With some jackets that I have with reasonable shoulder padding, you can see the bump. What amazes me is that it is possible to tailor a jacket to deal with one's shoulders, even without the benefits of shoulder pads. And this in a RTW jacket.
 

JMartinEsq

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Is there a forum recommended online MTM shirt maker? I've seen the mixed reviews for moderntailor. I'm currently paying $100 per for MTM from a Hong Kong tailor. I love the fit but maybe not the quality. Want to try something more convenient and less costly.
 

Solosso

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Is there a forum recommended online MTM shirt maker? I've seen the mixed reviews for moderntailor. I'm currently paying $100 per for MTM from a Hong Kong tailor. I love the fit but maybe not the quality. Want to try something more convenient and less costly.

You can try our shirts out and get 50% off your first order. We had a few reviews published lately, you might find that useful when making a decision. For your convenience, here, here, and here. We do unfused collars and cuffs too, lots of people from Style Forum come because of that. More on that here.

Hope that helps.

Jan
 

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