Advice on Spier Mackay sizing

[bhagaba]

I am a noob here and measure 5 foot 9.5 and average build. What you see here is a
1. 38S sport coat from S&M
2. An older 38R from polo ralph lauren

Its clear that the S&M coat is too tight but I am not sure if I need to order 38 Contemporary or 40 Slim. One thing that did worry me is that the sleeves on the S&M are already long and my shirt isn't showing (the shirt is 14.5, 33 from Charles Tyrwhitt). The sleeves on the Polo coat are shorter but the coat itself is baggy (from the back that is). The back of the coat with with the wrinkles is with buttons closed.

I tend to think 38 Contemporary is what I need but not sure. Any advice highly appreciated!

 

[breakaway01]

are you standing overly straight in the first picture -- in that photo there is a lot of bunching in your lower back from a very erect stance. This is not as obvious in some of the other photos. I ask because if that is your natural stance, this model/cut is not going to work for you.

Assuming that your natural stance is closer to the other photos in which the lower back is cleaner, my comments are
1. way too short. You should be in a regular length, not a short length.
2. sleeves can be easily shortened so don't worry about the sleeve length
3. yes I think you can try a 38R contemporary -- will give you another 0.8" in the chest, which I think will be enough. The alternative would be to go to a 40R slim. This gives you 2" more in the chest but you probably don't need that much. I was also thinking about whether you'd benefit from a little more shoulder extension but I'm not sure that you do.

 

[bhagaba]

Thanks a lot breakaway for the note. Yes maybe I stretched too much in the first photograph. Few clarifications
1. Do you mean the length? If yes, the 38R does not seem too much longer than the 38S
2. I am leaning on 40S but I fear it may be too big

In general, how long should the jacket be?

 

[breakaway01]

For the neo cut, 38S slim is 28.5" in length. 38R contemporary is 29.9" in length, so nearly 1.5" longer. That is a pretty significant difference?

At 5'9.5" you should not be in a short jacket.

As a rough rule of thumb, jacket should cover your seat from the rear, and should visually bisect your body below your head.

 

[bhagaba]

Thanks breakway, Actually those photos are 38 Slim and not 38 Short Slim and I apologize for the confusion. Your inputs are highly appreciated by the way. Here are some more better lighting pics. I do need a size change, the key question is if its 38 Contemporary or 40 Slim. The sleeves will be long but as you said, I can get them altered.

 

[breakaway01]

there are two things that confuse me a bit.

(1) in some photos the jacket looks tight

but in others it does not look that tight.

Which of these two is more representative?

and (2) the jacket looks short (doesn't cover your seat) in many of the pictures but now you're saying it's a 38R and your height is pretty average. The older Polo jacket also looks a little short. Maybe it's the camera angle in some of the photos. Do you have an unusually long torso? What is your typical trouser inseam?

 

[bhagaba]

I can easily answer that, in the one which looks tight, the front buttons are closed. Is that normal ( I mean should buttoned jackets look that right when closed)? I do plan on buttoning it up sometimes but mostly will wear open button. The jacket in question is a size 38 in Slim (not 38S)

 

[breakaway01]

oh okay got it. yes it shouldn't look this tight when buttoned.
I'm also on the fence between 38R contemporary and 40R slim.
What is your measured chest and waist size (with a measuring tape, not the size of trousers you wear)? Take a look at S&M's measuring guide if you're not sure.

 

[schraiber]

I think the shoulders look fine, so I'd probably go with a 38 Contemporary over the 40 Slim.

 

[notdos]

You need a 40.

 

[bhagaba]

Yeah? I think so too. 40 in short maybe?

 

[schraiber]

Yeah? I think so too. 40 in short maybe?

Definitely don't get a short

 

[bhagaba]

Ok so a 40 Slim maybe? Looking at how tight it is, are you sure a 40 Slim is better than a 38 Contemporary?

 

[breakaway01]

Ok so a 40 Slim maybe? Looking at how tight it is, are you sure a 40 Slim is better than a 38 Contemporary?

Look at measurements on the website. 40 slim is larger in the chest and waist than 38 contemporary. I’d still advise measuring your own body if you are unsure.