Advice - Lapel Width on Suits

[Ardvatar]

Good morning/afternoon/evening friends,

I’ve done digging on different suit styles, price points, etc. as I explore ordering a MTM suit in NYC. I have decided on going with Enzo Customs, but this thread isn’t about that. Upon customizing my suit yesterday evening I became conflicted. I’ve seen many suits with wide lapels and I had a hard time deciding on what width to go for myself. I am going with a classic notched lapel, not pointed, which is a big determining factor I believe.

Details regarding my size for proportions. My chest is 49” around and I do have broad shoulders, I am 6’0” tall and my waist is about 40” (where I wear my pants). The gentleman measuring me advised on a 3.5” lapel and I agreed, but was conflicted when considering whether or not to go 4”. When I see a suit with a wider lapel, it’s hard for me to gauge its actual width but I think I have a decent eye for when it’s around 4” and I like the look. We tried on a jacket that was about my size that had 3.5” lapels and it looked okay, but because I yearn for a wider lapel I wanted to bump it to 4”. They unfortunately didn’t have anything with a 4” lapel so we did a kind of mediocre mockup. I wish I took a photo. They advised me that because my shoulder line is 21”, I can get away with a 4” lapel, but they typically steer away from it.

My only other suit is a mediocre RTW suit I bought from Men’s Wearhouse 3-4 years ago that I had altered to fit me better. I don’t even know the lapel widths on it, but here is a photo of it!

I believe this suit is a 54R or 56R (armholes were tight and was the only suit in the whole store that fit me at the time) off the rack. I bought it and have since lost a considerable amount of weight (about 45 pounds) so it is very roomy on me. If I had to guess, that’s a 2.5” lapel at best. I’ll measure when I get home.

All this to say, I feel safer going with 3.5” but in my heart I want the 4” lapel. Am I crazy? Is it tacky? I think it’ll look good on me, but I don’t want to look silly either and I don’t want anyone trying to land airplanes on it either. Looking for advice and perhaps someone who is a similar build who can post photos of their suits with lapel widths around 3.5-4”. Thanks to anyone able to assist! Appreciate any and all help and insights.

Charcoal gray suit, no pattern, 2ply super 150 wool.

All the best always,
Ard

 

[breakaway01]

it's more about proportion of the lapel to your chest size. I'd say somewhere around half the distance to your shoulder is 'about right' for most people. The lapels on the jacket in your photo are definitely too slim for your build. I think you could go for a 4" lapel no problem, or if you're not sure just split the difference and try 3.75".

Here I'm wearing a jacket with a 4.3" lapel and I am a US 36R. This is definitely bigger than normal but I like it, and nobody has said anything to me about it so far (though maybe they're just being polite haha)

HUSBANDS (Paris)

The new suit pants all seem to be relatively low-rise. New collection is now on Matches. Flared jeans, t shirts, and lighter wool suits. I’m interested to see what else there is to come. Hoping they add some of their usual higher-waisted cuts in these lighter materials, or at least restock...

www.styleforum.net

 

[Despos]

4” lapels without hesitation. 3.5 is too small

4.25” or 4.5” works for your size and won’t look out of proportion

 

[acconrad]

yeah over 4 for sure. i have a 44" chest and i have 4.25" lapels

 

[classicalthunde]

4” lapels without hesitation. 3.5 is too small

4.25” or 4.5” works for your size and won’t look out of proportion

@Ardvatar Despos is a top tier bespoke tailor, you should take his advice and run with it

 

[wozniak]

You and I are close in size. I get MTM suits. My jacket size for most fittings is 52-54L.

4 inch lapels look very "normal" and not "wide" on me. 3.5" would work and be okay, but not as nice.

One of my MTM companies who is a bit classic offers several lapel sizes with 3.5 standard. The other, geared to young slim people, has 2.75 inch standard and then only offers 4" for their wide notch.

The general traditional rule is that the lapel should cover half the distance across to your shoulder.

 

[Ardvatar]

@breakaway01 Thank you! Yours looks good to me, don't think anyone was just being polite! Like the texture of that material for that jacket too!

@Despos @classicalthunde Thank you Despos! I'm going forward on the 4" lapels! Perhaps in the future I will be braver once I have the suit in hand and see that there's even more room. Appreciate your help and the cosign classical!

@wozniak thank you, good to know someone with a similar build is pulling off the 4" with no issue. Yes, I saw a lot of recommendations stating half the distance across the shoulder, might be able to go even wider with future suits like everyone here is advising.

@acconrad perhaps the next suit will be 4.25/4.5"

Thank you all! Going forward with confidence. Once I get the suit in hand, I'll take a photo with it on and post it here. Much appreciated and glad to know I was being nervous for no reason. I'll trust my gut more in the future.

Best,
Ard

 

[Despos]

Other factors I consider when shaping/sizing lapels is the angle of the gorge.
The seam where the collar and lapel meet.
if the gorge is more horizontal the lapel looks wider.
when the gorge is more on an angle or sloping, I make the lapel a bit wider to offset the slope.

after a few suits you’ll learn your preferences.

You have to know my filter, I’m biased towards wide lapels and will always prefer them.
Over 50 years and cycling thru styling trends have only made 3.5” lapels a couple times. Only on smaller frames.
Made a 3.75” peak lapel once. Others were always 4” or wider.

 

[DorianGreen]

it's more about proportion of the lapel to your chest size. I'd say somewhere around half the distance to your shoulder is 'about right' for most people. The lapels on the jacket in your photo are definitely too slim for your build. I think you could go for a 4" lapel no problem, or if you're not sure just split the difference and try 3.75".

Here I'm wearing a jacket with a 4.3" lapel and I am a US 36R. This is definitely bigger than normal but I like it, and nobody has said anything to me about it so far (though maybe they're just being polite haha)

HUSBANDS (Paris)

The new suit pants all seem to be relatively low-rise. New collection is now on Matches. Flared jeans, t shirts, and lighter wool suits. I’m interested to see what else there is to come. Hoping they add some of their usual higher-waisted cuts in these lighter materials, or at least restock...

www.styleforum.net

Great looking.

 

[Ardvatar]

Other factors I consider when shaping/sizing lapels is the angle of the gorge.
The seam where the collar and lapel meet.
if the gorge is more horizontal the lapel looks wider.
when the gorge is more on an angle or sloping, I make the lapel a bit wider to offset the slope.

after a few suits you’ll learn your preferences.

You have to know my filter, I’m biased towards wide lapels and will always prefer them.
Over 50 years and cycling thru styling trends have only made 3.5” lapels a couple times. Only on smaller frames.
Made a 3.75” peak lapel once. Others were always 4” or wider.

The height and construction of the gorge, with a wider lapel, for a MTM suit were part of my worry as well. Hopefully they have it dialed in nicely, but they didn't have any examples of jackets with their 4" lapel.

Appreciate the insights and considerations of the gorge when going wider on the lapel. Appreciating all the details of suits and suit making as I continue to learn on this journey.