A Pressing Issue: What's the Real Story on Whether Lapels Should Have a Crease or Not?

[blueline7]

I took delivery of two custom made sports jackets. I immediatley noticed that the lapels had more than a generous roll - in fact under the lapels, there was no noticeable crease - so that when hung and unbuttoned, the lapels looked enourmous and like floppy elephant ears. I took it to a professional hand-presser to have this corrected, and they came back the exact same despite my instructions. In my follow-up call, I was advised by the presser, that all the best jackets (he mentioned Kiton, etc.) NEVER have a crease, as it flattens the roll of the lapel. The suggestion was that I would be ruining a jacket if I had them pressed down, with a crease. I had never heard this before, and none of my jackets are like this - even ones made by this particular tailor - but it is not unimaginable that this is correct. Please share your knowledge and advice regarding this pressing issue.

 

[Chowkin]

Your tailor and your hand-presser are correct.

 

[stubloom]

Suit jackets and sport coats should always have a light crease from the gorge seam on the upper left all the way around the collar to the gorge seam on the upper right.

The lapels should always be rolled, never creased. A creased lapel is the pressing equivalent of medical malpractice.