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Suitsupply - cheap bespoke - Page 6

post #76 of 111
The shoulders on both of the coats pictured above look like they have dimples. I tend to steer clear of stuff that can't be made to look good on a model.
post #77 of 111
Anyone seen what the spring/summer suits/jackets look like?
post #78 of 111
My boss owns one of these. It's actually the worst suit I' ve ever seen. They're huge in Holland among those who don' t care about what they wear.
post #79 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by EhvGuy View Post
They're huge in Holland among those who don' t care about what they wear or cannot yet afford to buy better quality stuff.

FTFY
post #80 of 111
the wall street journal made an article about the prices of suits those days:
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB1000...135584478.html

here's what they say:

"Testers said a $614 suit from Suitsupply, an Amsterdam-based company that will open its first U.S. store in New York next month, matched a $3,600 Armani in quality and outperformed designs from J. Crew, Hart Schaffner Marx, Target and H&M."

OUCH!

So neutral and serious comparison or free advertising?

Who could really compare?
post #81 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by EhvGuy View Post

My boss owns one of these. It's actually the worst suit I' ve ever seen. They're huge in Holland among those who don' t care about what they wear.


What specifically was bad about the cut if you don't mind me asking?
post #82 of 111
Suit Supply is a more than decent choice in their price range. Good fit, decent quality. Nothing to get all hyper about, but good quality for its price.
post #83 of 111
Quote:
Article The Wall Street Journal:
"A Hard-Working Suit"

New York | April 14 2011

“Testers said a $614 suit from Suitsupply, an Amsterdam-based company that will open its first U.S. store in New York next month, matched a $3,600 Armani in quality and outperformed designs from J. Crew, Hart Schaffner Marx, Target and H&M.”
Source: The Wall Street Journal 15 april 2011

By SARAH NASSAUER
It can cost a man a lot less to feel like a million bucks in his suit these days.

There are more suits priced between $500 and $700 that include features once found typically on more expensive suits: fine Italian fabrics, modern cuts and narrow lapels. The goal is to attract younger men who increasingly want the current fitted, formal styles as opposed to the boxy suits and more casual officewear of their dads.

Big suit makers like Brooks Brothers and HMX, which sell suits between about $600 and $3,000, say their lowest-priced suits are experiencing the fastest sales growth. And next month Amsterdam-based Suitsupply, with 35 stores in Europe, plans to open its first U.S. store in New York with suits starting at $385. Suitsupply will offer its sometimes flashy suits with details like Italian wool fabric, brightly colored lining and working button holes, features that usually carry a higher price tag.

Other efforts to keep up quality at lower prices include J. Crew Group Inc.'s expanded men's suit selection. Sales of its men's suit have more than doubled since 2008, when the clothing company introduced a slimmer style, made with Italian wool and superior interior construction, a spokeswoman says. The style, called Ludlow, starts at about $600.

At HMX, which owns American suit brands like Hickey Freeman and Hart Schaffner Marx, the fastest growth is in its lower priced suits, around $795, says Joseph Abboud, president and chief creative officer for HMX. Sales of Hart Schaffner Marx suits, the company's brand in that price range, are up 27% year to date compared to last year, says Mr. Abboud.

The briskest sales growth at Brooks Brothers is happening in its recently expanded Suiting Essentials line, priced starting at $598, says Guy Voglino, divisional merchandise manager for men's clothing at the company. Sales of the line are up 28% in 2011 to date, compared to the same period last year, Mr. Voglino says.

Introduced in 2007 offering one fit, the line has expanded to four different fits, most recently the brand's narrowest cuts, the Fitzgerald and the Milano. Brooks Brothers offers some made-to-measure options including about 20 fabrics. The ability to individualize appeals to younger men who want to stand out even in a room of suits, says Mr. Voglino. Because each suit is specially ordered, the company saves money by producing only what it actually sells and doesn't risk bloated inventory.

The interest in suits at this price range comes amid an overall pick up in suit sales at some manufacturers. Brooks Brothers says sales of its 1818 Collection, priced about $1,000, are up 26% year-over-year. HMX is seeing double digit growth in volume and dollar sales across brands and price points, says Mr. Abboud.

"We are seeing the suit business really come back in the last six months very very strongly," says Robert Burke, a luxury-goods consultant and founder of Robert Burke Associates in New York.

Many men wait for seasonal sales in order to find a good price on a suit, but suit makers hope the new $500 to $700 range will encourage men to buy retail instead of waiting for price cuts.

Suitsupply is able to keep down prices, in part, by picking store locations slightly off main shopping streets with lower rents, says Fokke de Jong, chief executive and founder of the company. The company's new Soho New York location will be on a second floor with no street level window display. About 15% of Suitsupply suits are sold through the website.

J. Crew, like Suitsupply, controls more aspects of production from design to distribution, cutting out payments to third-party companies that typical move suits into department stores.

Men's Wearhouse which sells suits from about $199 to $700, keeps prices low by offering two-for-the-price-of-one deals, increasing sales volume and therefore buying power with its suppliers, says Doug Ewert, president and chief operating officer of the Fremont, Calif.-based company.

Maintaining the current price-to-quality relationship in men's suits is likely to become increasingly difficult. Raw material prices for desirable natural fabrics like wool and cotton are rising sharply. "If I have to guess, price is going to go up 10% to 15% on the wholesale side" heading into spring 2012, says Ronny Wurtzburger, president of Peerless Clothing which manufactures men's suits for brands like DKNY, Calvin Klein and IZOD.

We enlisted two experts for an unscientific, blind review of six suits: Salvatore Giardina, a men's suit designer and professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology, and Salvatore Cesarani, a designer and professor at Parsons The New School for Design.

The testers found striking differences in quality, sometimes out of line with the suit's price. Both testers said the $614 Suitsupply suit matched the $3,625 Armani in quality. Both saw little difference in quality between the two, or at least not enough to justify a $3,000 difference in price. Each is made with soft Italian fabric and showed the maker cared about details like pockets with extra stitching at their edges.

"It's a work of art," said Mr. Giardina when examining the sewing job in the waist band of the Armani suit pant. But after learning of the large price difference, "that means that won," Mr. Giardina said, pointing to the Suitsupply suit.

The J. Crew suit fared well with the testers noting its neat construction and that it is made of high-end Italian fabric and Bemberg lining (a type of rayon favored for its breathablity and moisture absorption).

The testers said the Hart Schaffner Marx suit didn't live up to its $895 price. Mr. Giardina noted some fraying strings on button holes and said its "AMF stitching" didn't achieve a handmade look. (AMF stitching is a wider stitch that's an aesthetic touch.) Mr. Cesarani said the jacket didn't move freely in the chest.

The test method "is an imperfect science and it's an opinion," says Mr. Abboud, noting that the suit tested is made from "super 110s wool made in Italy. "We take great pains," he adds, to make sure fabric and construction is high quality.

Mr. Giardina said the H&M suit used a lower thread count wool fabric and basic construction, but still pulled off a nice overall look. Mr. Cesarani dismissed it as "cheap looking." He docked points for the lack of extra fabric for future tailoring where the lining inside the cuff of the jacket meets the exterior fabric.

"We know that our suits are appreciated by many of our customers," said an H&M spokeswoman.

The Target suit isn't worth more than $89, both testers agreed, calling the polyester fabric a major negative.

"Target is committed to offering quality merchandise at a great value," says a Target spokeswoman. "For our business-focused guests, this means finding suits for less than $100."
Impressive smile.gif.
post #84 of 111
Does anyone know what price the MTM program starts at?
post #85 of 111
Their cheapest MTM-service (Blue Line) starts at €350 in Europe, Suit-up starts at €450. Not sure which service is available in the US.

Blue Line:
- Over 60 Italian fabrics
- Pure Wool in Super 110 & Super 120

Suit-up:
- Fully made to measure
- Over 600 Italian fabrics
- Pure Wool / Cashmere in Super 110 to Super 200
post #86 of 111
I don't get it -- how bad can a suit be for $600 that people here keep trashing it? Methinks it has to do more with the image/advertising, but once you put it on its not as if it says "Suitsupply" anywhere on the outside...this isn't Ed Hardy. If they're making ok-quality suits at a decent price point (which they seem to be doing), is it such a bad thing?
post #87 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by leftover_salmon View Post

I don't get it -- how bad can a suit be for $600 that people here keep trashing it? Methinks it has to do more with the image/advertising, but once you put it on its not as if it says "Suitsupply" anywhere on the outside...this isn't Ed Hardy. If they're making ok-quality suits at a decent price point (which they seem to be doing), is it such a bad thing?

I agree with this. I've seen Zegna suits that look dreadful on people because of fit problems, and I've seen people in suits from Zara that looked very good. Ultimately, if your suit doesn't fit properly, it doesn't matter if it's from Target or Saville Row. If these suits fit, the material is decent, and the price isn't overly inflated then they're a worthwhile choice. If the suit looks bad, then it's the buyer's fault 90% of the time, because it doesn't fit properly.
post #88 of 111
I recently had a suit made from them (personal tailoring-Suit-up). A navy pinstripe, notch lapel 2 button SB jacket, double vents, with flap pockets. Fully canvassed (stitched, not glued).

I had my measurements taken in Amsterdam, but had the suit delivered in London (I move around a lot) at no extra cost.
It is made to measure, but they do not take your measurements directly. Instead, the measurement/fitting process is as follows:

first you are shown three or four jacket "styles/models" to choose from (many people complain about their high button stance, and I agree with them. Fortunately they also have models with lower button stance). After that, you put on a jacket of the style you have chosen that is about your right size (shoulder-wise) and define with you all the "changes" that should be made, pinning them down with pins, so you can actually see the effect. If I recall correctly I had "changes" in at least 25 different points of the jacket. The same goes for the trousers (my choice was trousers without belt loops and side tabs). The process takes around 40 minutes, and the service is really good. The guy who measured me suggested every single adjustment, explaining why he would do it, and making me choose when more than a matter of fit it was a matter of style choice (eg. the width of the trousers at the ankle, the closeness of the fit on the shoulders).
After that, I was given swatches of cloth to choose from, as well as swatches for the lining and buttons.

The suit arrived after a month. I had a fitting in the london store, and we decided to shorten the trouser length. The rest of the fit was quite good in my opinion. You also have the option of wearing the suit for one or two weeks and then come back to make any adjustments you deem necessary. In my case, after some daysg I noticed that even though the fit of the jacket was quite good, after some movements the jacket would move backward a little, i.e. the jacket collar would move away from the shirt collar, just a tiny bit. I went back to the shop and they agreed with me. They explained that the top part of the back of the jacket (just below the collar) had been made a bit too short, and thus even though this gave me a nicer fit in the lower back, it created the problem with the collar. Since this could not be adjusted, they offered to take my measurements again and order another jacket with the new corrections, free of charge (in the meanwhile I will keep the current jacket). They also gave me a discount on a second pair of trousers.

The price of the suit was around 420 euros.
post #89 of 111
Anyone know who makes SuitSupply's shoes? They're labeled as made in Italy, but I'm no real judge of quality.
post #90 of 111
Those shoes are nothing special. I've heard Cordwainer has some involvement but I'm not sure. Unlike their suits I'd stay away from their shoes probably.
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