Understanding the difference between Worsted, Flannel, and a material that feels like it's something

I deal a lot with suits on Ebay and am trying to learn the difference between these materials since I would like to describe them accurately so that people can find the listings and also so that I am describing them accurately.

I come across a lot of suits of all types and I can definitely tell when a suit is Flannel or Worsted. I know they are both wool, and that flannel is a loose, almost plush, spongy material with a fuzzy texture where as worsted is a refined, smooth, tightly woven fabric.

The problem comes for me when I have a suit which is something between the two. What do you call something like this? It's soft but not so spongy. It's fairly tightly woven but noticeably looser than a worsted suit. It has somewhat of a noticeably fuzzy fabric but it is not to the extent of a total flannel. Is there a term for this type of suit fabric? I have seen the term "Worsted Flannel" thrown around and have always thought that "Worsted Wool" was the standard term for a worsted suit. Is "Worsted Flannel" the term I am looking for?

Thank you for any information on this.

My guess is you are referring to a "brushed" wool.

Doeskin?

TBH, as a fleaBay buyer you're lucky to get something moth-free that's within 2" of the given measurements.

Marsay said:

Doeskin?

TBH, as a fleaBay buyer you're lucky to get something moth-free that's within 2" of the given measurements.

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This about sums up my experience when buying and when viewing my competition. I strive to measure very carefully and always get glowing reviews but my stuff is always higher priced. I think a lot of serious clothing buyers are afraid to even go on Ebay due to the incompetency of the average Ebay seller and I don't blame them for it.

That could be. Is that a sub title of Worsted? Just through searching through pictures I have seen of "brushed wool" it seems to be an accurate description.

Macro here: http://www.hainsworth.co.uk/apparel/clothing/fabrics/doeskin/

Are you sure it's not worsted flannel? The flannel you describe sounds like a woven flannel perhaps whereas a worsted flannel looks like a worsted twill up close and is less spongey than woolen flannel, but is still fuzzy and soft and flannely.


Best thing to do is google "worsted flannel versus woolen flannel" and see if the results describe the difference you are talking about.

Sam H said:

Are you sure it's not worsted flannel? The flannel you describe sounds like a woven flannel perhaps whereas a worsted flannel looks like a worsted twill up close and is less spongey than woolen flannel, but is still fuzzy and soft and flannely.


Best thing to do is google "worsted flannel versus woolen flannel" and see if the results describe the difference you are talking about.

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I have been wondering about the same distinction after recently picking up a couple pairs of new Zegna mainline flannel trousers, that by my best summation, appear to be what is called worsted flannel.

This short blog post from Put This On speaks to the distinction:
http://putthison.com/post/23674835650/worsted-vs-woolen-flannels-i-love-wool-flannel

This second article uses the terms "carded" vs. "combed" flannel, with "combed" sounding like it is describing "worsted" as defined in the first link. Is this simply alternate synonymous terminology or are there technical differences?
https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/flannel-guide-fall-fabric/

This second article also speaks about the long tradition of Vitale Berberis Canonicio's flannel, which I appreciated.

Given Zegna's in-house capacity and know how for producing top line fabrics, I assume that the flannel trousers I have from them are their own fabric.

Any insights on this subject from the knowledge pool here would be much appreciated.