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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 1217

post #18241 of 43890
Quote:
Originally Posted by VictorSFreturn View Post



Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)








briefcase/bag – Andrey Glushenko

headwear – Stetson

scarf – Calabrese

gloves – Barbour 

tie – Calabrese

pocket squares – Roda

belt – Etro

cufflinks – Dunhill

bracelet – Viola Milano

overcoat – Brooks Brothers

cardigan – Cruciani

shoes – Alden

socks – Pantherella

shirt – Bespoke

jeans – Bespoke

perfume – Clive Christian “X”

Lovely fit as always Victor, but the coat sleeves are slightly too short, it betrays the practical purpose of a coat to have the sleeves shorter than your shirt and/or jacket. The purpose of a coat is to protect you from the elements and if the sleeves are too short then it cannot do this.

Cheers,
Nick
post #18242 of 43890
Another (and perhaps the last) day of wintry weather in NYC this spring. (Tomorrow promises to be wet, but warmer, at least.) One last hurrah for the flannel in the closet, and for today's topcoat.

Suit - Paul Stuart/Phineas Cole
Shirt - Tyrwhitt
Tie - JAB
Braces - New & Lingwood
PS - Robert Talbott
Cufflinks - Benson & Clegg, London
Shoes - C & J
Overcoat & scarf - BB
Hat - Selentino, via JJ Hat Center, NYC


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)










post #18243 of 43890



post #18244 of 43890
post #18245 of 43890
Quote:
Originally Posted by usctrojans31 View Post

Victor is slowly turning into a villain in the Bourne movies. Well done!

Not only that but he grew a beard and tash in one day. Amazing!
post #18246 of 43890






Lid by Agyesh
Brown boiled wool marremana jacket (coming, in some form or another, to NMWA next fall) - Eidos
Tan covert cloth DB suit - Eidos
White/blue striped Japanese typewriter cloth spread collar shirt - Eidos
Navy/royal dotted cashmere knit tie - Eidos
Suede chukks (I don't polish these either.) - Christian Kimber x Eidos
post #18247 of 43890
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sander View Post

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This is good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EFV View Post

Comparison to grammar and big societal changes is interesting. There is one flaw in that kind of reasoning though.

Grammar is essential to lawmakers, governments et c, to create an un-biased exact mass of texts upon which a society shall be governed.

Clothes, even CM, don't hold such weight.

I'll also leave this Boyer quote here:

“I know there are people out there who spend countless hours discussing the correct depth of trouser cuffs and length of coats. But the reality is that dressing well is like writing well: you learn the rules that are fashionable at the time, then you develop your own style by breaking them in order to better accommodate your unique life.
Those who slavishly follow the rules of dress are really just followers of fashion: the fashion of a particular time, past or present.”
Bruce Boyer (via Ivy Style)

The sentiment in the Boyer quote is the first thing I thought of when I saw rules of dress being compared to grammar. To be a competent writer you must be know and understand the rules but nearly all truly exceptional writers develop their own style and consciously deviate from them.
post #18248 of 43890
@NickPollica fantastic db suit! But what made you decide to put the breast pocket so high? It's almost a shoulder pocket now.
post #18249 of 43890
@NickPollica

Suit looks great. Is that the Ciro model?
post #18250 of 43890
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

@NickPollica

Suit looks great. Is that the Ciro model?

Yessah. Same as the infamous dinner jacket you love.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

@NickPollica fantastic db suit! But what made you decide to put the breast pocket so high? It's almost a shoulder pocket now.

If you're referring to the close up photo I think its a bit of an optical illusion due to the angle and width of the lapel. Its no different from all our jackets.
post #18251 of 43890
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickPollica View Post

Yessah. Same as the infamous dinner jacket you love.

Just as I suspected. I think the lapels come out way nicer on that DB model than the Tipo DB model (not that those are bad, just more like what other people are making). Silhouette looks great too. I may have to MTO that dinner jacket you sampled if the fabric is available.

P.S. the DJ I MTO'ed last season has ended up getting a pretty good amount of wear. Surprising how often you can use those things if you open your mind to it.
post #18252 of 43890
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Just as I suspected. I think the lapels come out way nicer on that DB model than the Tipo DB model (not that those are bad, just more like what other people are making). Silhouette looks great too. I may have to MTO that dinner jacket you sampled if the fabric is available.

P.S. the DJ I MTO'ed last season has ended up getting a pretty good amount of wear. Surprising how often you can use those things if you open your mind to it.

Care to elaborate on how you wear it? What kind of trousers/shirt? Bow tie only, or regular ties as well?

I've been thinking about a nighttime going out jacket for a while now, perhaps including some elements from a dinner jacket.
post #18253 of 43890
I'm still not sure I'm qualified to wade in when these sartorial debates blessedly efflouresce here on WAYWRN -- a delightful, but increasingly rare event (more's the pity).

I will say that after several years of lurking, even I have absorbed the following by osmosis:
1. Coherence is critical. Stitchy said it already so I won't bore through repetition. I'll add only this: Studying acting, we called this "commitment" -- go all in or don't go at all. Don't confuse this with overacting. Because that's worse. Think of it this way: insincerity is easily detected whether it's too little or too much. Also, to be clear, I mean coherence in all possible senses: genre, formality (city vs. country, etc), texture, color, etc. -- though I buy less into color theory less than some (which maybe is (just one reason) why I progress more slowly -- or not at all -- than others).

2. Proportions are important. I mean this in edit 23 senses.
a. In terms of what flatters the body. If it doesn't fit, it will look like s**t. No matter what. Fit is most important above all, arguably even above coherence. However, this is what is most difficult (and most expensive) to capture. This requires either gifted tailoring or superior genetics (I hate you people).
b. In terms of the range of currently acceptable aesthetic. The midpoint here will almost always be acceptable, and the only question will be whether the current "eye" will be above or below. A good example is the current "eye" accepting trouser hemlines set just above the shoe line. That would have looked absolutely laughably ridiculous even just 8-10 years ago. I mean, really, really stupid. Really. And it will again. Trust me.
c. Mastering deploying multiple patters requires also mastering proportions: You must vary the pattern scales from large to small to avoid conflict. Seems pretty obvious once pointed out, but it's not always intuitive for the beginner.
post #18254 of 43890



Eidos
Canali
Rubinacci on maiden voyage
Bigi
Incotex
Pantherella
GG
post #18255 of 43890
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

Care to elaborate on how you wear it? What kind of trousers/shirt? Bow tie only, or regular ties as well?

I've been thinking about a nighttime going out jacket for a while now, perhaps including some elements from a dinner jacket.

shitty pics but:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/469255/friday-really-saturday-challenge-march-28th-50-shades-of-black-tie/15#post_7781459

I don't think I would wear a long tie with it. Bow tie or open collar
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