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ccallis

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Chris,

Just curious, if we normally go with a fairly slim fit for dress shirts, what size alterations would you recommend in the body for a popover? Obviously it would need more room to accommodate getting it on and off, but I'm curious what people go with, in your experience. Say, adjustment from your "super slim" fit?


It really depends on how comfortable you are with a fuller fit. I quite like bumping it up by about 1" in mid and chest, .25" in sleeve. It's still not as easy to take off as a t-shirt or anything, but like this balance in terms of slimness vs functionality.

Also--the length is something people don't consider that much. If you're going to wear untucked or half tucked you'll want to go shorter in the body--I go 1" shorter in the body for popover untucked than regular shirt untucked. I might need to revisit that this summer, though, can't remember if it's spot on or not.
 

Andrew Ryan

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We're actually about to add the ability to lower the top placket button in the coming weeks, but that option is not currently availible. Note that our standard button placement is about .5" lower than industry avg.

@ccallis - any idea when this is going to happen? I canceled a large spring/summer order when I saw this as I absolutely want to do this. Also, what will the options be?

Thanks!
 

ccallis

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@ccallis
 - any idea when this is going to happen? I canceled a large spring/summer order when I saw this as I absolutely want to do this. Also, what will the options be?

Thanks!


@andrew ryan Really hoping to have this up in the next two weeks. Quite a big update with our factory, so we're just trying to make sure everything is spot on for launch.

When it does launch, you will be able to raise the first button placement by .5" or 1", and also lower it by .5".
 

Andy57

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@andrew ryan Really hoping to have this up in the next two weeks. Quite a big update with our factory, so we're just trying to make sure everything is spot on for launch.

When it does launch, you will be able to raise the first button placement by .5" or 1", and also lower it by .5".

What would be the reason to do either?
 

novaeagle

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I have two popover style shirts from Proper Cloth. The first one I had made in my regular measurements. It fits fine, but it is very difficult to get on and off. The second one, I added an inch (I think--might have been and inch and a half) to the chest size, waist size, and bottom opening size, and made the sleeves a little fuller. That turned out to be ideal. Much easier to get on and off and still a pretty nice fit. I made mine in one of their crisp white broadcloths and they are the perfect summer shirt. I used the soft Roma Cutaway. Very Byronic, very romantic look.
Quote:

Thanks guys! Still waiting on my current dress shirt in make. Had to try one last adjustment of standard measurements, but I think this one is the ticket, so based off your advice I'll ad an inch to the chest, mid, and .25" in the sleeve. I'll also have to try the soft roma cutaway. Popover's already are vastly different from a button-down, why not do something fun with it?

Just curious @ccallis why do you recommend going shorter for popover untucked than regular shirt? Is it due to the larger body, or is the tail design different?
 

jaidog

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@andrew ryan Really hoping to have this up in the next two weeks. Quite a big update with our factory, so we're just trying to make sure everything is spot on for launch.

When it does launch, you will be able to raise the first button placement by .5" or 1", and also lower it by .5".

@ccallis

If first button is raised by .5" or 1", will you provide 8 buttons total on the front of the shirt rather than seven? Would be great if you could.
 

Winery Dog

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What would be the reason to do either?
Chris,

Would raising the button help support an open collar? I recently saw a "stiff" version of the Presidents spread collar on your website. I'm curious if this was created to help support an open collar as well?
 

ccallis

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@ccallis


If first button is raised by .5" or 1", will you provide 8 buttons total on the front of the shirt rather than seven?  Would be great if you could.


When we launch this feature, we will also launch a new portion of the size menu that shows how many buttons will be on the placket of your shirt. Raising the button placement can, in some cases, add an additional button to the placket.

In many cases for those with 31"-32.5" shirt lengths, we will be updating to add an additional button to the front anyways. Not ready to launch yet, but soon.

Chris,

Would raising the button help support an open collar? I recently saw a "stiff" version of the Presidents spread collar on your website. I'm curious if this was created to help support an open collar as well?


Yes and yes.

The stiff collars are now live on the site--they are made from a thick, unfused interlining that stands up very nicely. Same shapes as our English Spread, President Spread, and Roma Cutaway collars.
 

Murlsquirl

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That's all good news, Chris. Scoping out fabrics for my second order....
 

jaidog

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When we launch this feature, we will also launch a new portion of the size menu that shows how many buttons will be on the placket of your shirt. Raising the button placement can, in some cases, add an additional button to the placket.

In many cases for those with 31"-32.5" shirt lengths, we will be updating to add an additional button to the front anyways. Not ready to launch yet, but soon.

@ccallis

It would be nice to allow the specification for number of buttons regardless of shirt length. The shirt I received only had 7 buttons due to its length. I have room for another button and would have preferred 8.
 

ccallis

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@ccallis


It would be nice to allow the specification for number of buttons regardless of shirt length. The shirt I received only had 7 buttons due to its length.  I have room for another button and would have preferred 8.


Totally--We won't be implementing the ability to specify an extra button in the short term (though we do have many requests for this). But rest assured that the button placement and number of buttons will be much improved in the next few weeks, and changing first button placement will often allow you to work around the system and decide how many button are on your shirt.
 

Winery Dog

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When we launch this feature, we will also launch a new portion of the size menu that shows how many buttons will be on the placket of your shirt. Raising the button placement can, in some cases, add an additional button to the placket.

In many cases for those with 31"-32.5" shirt lengths, we will be updating to add an additional button to the front anyways. Not ready to launch yet, but soon.
Yes and yes.

The stiff collars are now live on the site--they are made from a thick, unfused interlining that stands up very nicely. Same shapes as our English Spread, President Spread, and Roma Cutaway collars.
So the "stiff" collar is actually unfused (seems counter-intuitive but I'm new to this). Do you put the thick unfused interlining in both the collar band and the collar? Despite it's name would you say the stiff collar falls between the standard and the soft in terms of stiffness? I was just about to order a shirt on your website that is strictly going to be worn with jeans when I noticed the new stiff collar. Now I'm wondering if that is the better option for an open collar (no tie or jacket).
 

Sotiris

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@ccallis One more minor question. Any chance having a watch allowance go up to +0.75"?

And more Roma spread goodness:
1000
 
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