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- Feb 11, 2007
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My Matuozzo shirts are truly on their last legs. I can no longer wear them into a work environment without feeling conspicuously sprezzed out. The fraying has reached catastrophic levels. The collar and cuff edges are fully worn through to the interlining and some shirts are even fully worn through where the collar folds over.
So, I'm taking the opportunity to embark on a new project. Since I'm changing shirtmakers (largely because I can't justify Matuozzo-level prices to myself anymore), I figure now is a good time to re-think my entire approach to shirting. Sacred cows will be slaughtered.
Like the OneShoe, there will be a OneShirt. Similarly, it will not be absolutely monolithic, but will certainly play a dominant, foundational role in my wardrobe.
My present state of thinking on the concept:
1. Light blue chambray cloth
2. Spread collar
3. Single cuffs (yes, you read that right)
4. No front placket
5. No gauntlet buttons
6. No back pleats
7. Back darts
The second and third elements are somewhat up for debate, though more the latter than the former. The only other collar I'd consider is a buttondown, but I'm not all that confident in cajoling Geneva to make me one that is just right. Also, it's less versatile to me, as the OneShirt would be worn with a tie and jacket ninety percent of the time. As for the cuffs: I am partial to links as I generally find well-fitting barrel cuffs too constricting, yet interested in something lighter than a double (French) cuff. I understand the single cuff is associated with formal wear, but I'm not sure it can't be adapted to daily business dress. I'm probably convinced one way or another on the matter, but please feel free to opine.
Here's the real lynchpin: if someone can convince me that Geneva is capable of making an ideal buttondown collar with a bell-shaped roll, and can instruct me on how to instruct them, I will be very, very tempted to go that route. In that event, the linked cuffs will have to go altogether, and I'll switch to rounded barrel cuffs. Incidentally, such a shirt would replace my somewhat-but-not-entirely-successful modified OCBD from Brooks Brothers MTM. An added benefit.
In any event, a spread-collared shirt (with linked cuffs) will be essential at one point. I will probably add a blue-and-white bengal stripe and a large gingham to the foundational chambray. If I wind up doing the chambray in a buttondown collar, I may add a light blue end-on-end to the spread-collared assortment. No more small checks or graph paper for me.
There it is. Thoughts?
So, I'm taking the opportunity to embark on a new project. Since I'm changing shirtmakers (largely because I can't justify Matuozzo-level prices to myself anymore), I figure now is a good time to re-think my entire approach to shirting. Sacred cows will be slaughtered.
Like the OneShoe, there will be a OneShirt. Similarly, it will not be absolutely monolithic, but will certainly play a dominant, foundational role in my wardrobe.
My present state of thinking on the concept:
1. Light blue chambray cloth
2. Spread collar
3. Single cuffs (yes, you read that right)
4. No front placket
5. No gauntlet buttons
6. No back pleats
7. Back darts
The second and third elements are somewhat up for debate, though more the latter than the former. The only other collar I'd consider is a buttondown, but I'm not all that confident in cajoling Geneva to make me one that is just right. Also, it's less versatile to me, as the OneShirt would be worn with a tie and jacket ninety percent of the time. As for the cuffs: I am partial to links as I generally find well-fitting barrel cuffs too constricting, yet interested in something lighter than a double (French) cuff. I understand the single cuff is associated with formal wear, but I'm not sure it can't be adapted to daily business dress. I'm probably convinced one way or another on the matter, but please feel free to opine.
Here's the real lynchpin: if someone can convince me that Geneva is capable of making an ideal buttondown collar with a bell-shaped roll, and can instruct me on how to instruct them, I will be very, very tempted to go that route. In that event, the linked cuffs will have to go altogether, and I'll switch to rounded barrel cuffs. Incidentally, such a shirt would replace my somewhat-but-not-entirely-successful modified OCBD from Brooks Brothers MTM. An added benefit.
In any event, a spread-collared shirt (with linked cuffs) will be essential at one point. I will probably add a blue-and-white bengal stripe and a large gingham to the foundational chambray. If I wind up doing the chambray in a buttondown collar, I may add a light blue end-on-end to the spread-collared assortment. No more small checks or graph paper for me.
There it is. Thoughts?
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