After Hours Commission

This post is about putting together a specific look to be worn exclusively for after hours festivities. The ensemble will mainly be put into play while imbibing spirits at downtown cocktail lounges, cavorting around rooftop/hotel bars, and mingling with pretty little things into the twilight hours of the night. Composing elements will include a Sport Coat, Jeans, Shirt, Pocket Square, & Boots. Contrast in textures will be a key element.

[If relevant: FWIW, I am 6’ tall 175lb, tan skin tone, black near-shoulder-length wavy hair. Station in life: Young, well-to-do white-collar worker living solo in downtown condo.]


Sports Coat
-Fabric: Velvet. If weight can be specified, perhaps 9-10oz.
-Construction: Relatively unstructured, soft shoulders; more Neapolitan styling; (+) waist suppression, relatively higher arm holes
-Lining: Full ermazine
-Jacket Length: should end to just cover my butt
-Color: Midnight Blue
-Lapel: Peaked Lapel vs Shawl Collar
-Leaning towards shawl collar
-Not sure if peaked lapels will work well with a jacket that has softer shoulders; hence shawl collar might be the better option
-Lapel Width: would appreciate guidance here
-unsure what width shawl collar to specify for a sport coat like this
-am guessing half way out to shoulder might be too wide(?)
-Lapel Facings
-Color: Black vs Midnight Blue (not sure?)
-Satin vs Grosgrain
-leaning towards Grosgrain (might provide nice textural contrast to a silk pocket square)
-Vents: 2 side vents vs Unvented
-Leaning towards 2 side vents; may look better for rare times when hands are in pockets
-Although Unvented might produce a more sleek silhouette
-Unsure which option would be better as I rarely put hands in pockets (especially when wearing Jeans)
-Jacket Button & Stance
-Leaning towards 1-button
-If 1-button on Shawl Collar, perhaps a lower button stance would look better
-Button located at belly button (or perhaps slightly below it?)
-Am guessing button stance is user-dependent on torso length
-Grosgrain vs Satin covered(?) [likely same covering material as lapel facing]
-Waist Pockets
-Straight (not slanted)
-Besom
-Sewn shut
-Trimmed with whatever facing is on lapel
-Breast Pocket: welt
-Jacket Cuffs: Turnback Cuffs
-Functional button holes (4)
-No Boutonniere
-Adding this custom element to a shawl collar may just break up the sleekness of the long drape of the shawl; likely better to leave it out


Jeans
-Raw Denim
-Deep Indigo vs Black (thoughts?)


Shirt
-High-collared Dress Shirt
-Worn without Tie; top buttons open
-Color: White
-Maybe very faint pink? Maybe very faint lavender?
-Nighttime Contrast between Midnight Blue Velvet SC and White shirt might work well
-Collar
-worn open
-no button down
-should be crisp and stand tall/high (not too tall for head size though)
-collar must stay within jacket lapels
-What style?
-Point? Medium Spread vs Not a lot of spread?
-Definitely not a cutaway
-How to specify to shirt-maker that you want a collar that will stand tall and stay within jacket lapels when worn unbuttoned?
-Cuff: Barrel vs Mitred vs other?
-not sure what may pair well with turnback cuff of Velvet SC
-Covered button placket
-No pockets
-Backside barely covers rear pockets (for times when worn untucked)
-Shorter body / square bottom / no tails


Pocket Square
-White Silk
-No TV fold


Boots
-Black Leather Dress Boot
-Toe Box: Sleek & Pointed or Rounded?
-Might a sleeker, more-pointed toe look out of place with raw denim jeans?
-Unsure on best boot option
-Own Carmina Burgundy Calf Chelsea Boots; but feel that some new Black boot may be the best choice for this ensemble
-If going with Black boot, would that mean jean choice ought to be Black raw denim (if assumption that a black boot doesn’t pair as well with indigo raw denim jeans is accurate?)


Comments appreciated.

Did you come from an engineering discipline?

Your jacket spec reads more like a smoking/ruxedo jacket instead of a "sports coat". And they are generally structured unless you go bespoke. Shawl lapel, besom pockets, single button (or linked button better IMO), turn back cuffs. Grosgrain lapel looks better than satin IMO, deeper texture.

Both dark indigo or black works well, as long as they are relatively slim so you can wear a stack. dont fold up.

Shirt has to be white.

Black chelsea boots will be perfect, chiseled and somewhat sleek works better. EG 888 or RM Williams Craftsman comes to mind. JL 7000/8000 or G&G Deco will be too pointy IMO. Black shoes works with both black or indigo raw denim. Other options would be a pair of wholecut; socks won't really show with raw denim. If you want more texture, try wingtips full brogues like EG Malvern.

Appreciate the fdbk.
Did not come from an Engineering discipline.

Does the lack of comments suggest the OP was TL;DR or perhaps that it belongs elsewhere (i.e. SW&D)?
Maybe simply not interesting enough to drive discussion?

Sports Coat
-Will be bespoke (or MTM, at the least).
-Was aiming for upscale sport coat style with some evening-wear smoking/dinner jacket elements thrown in just for fun.
-Peaked Lapels vs Shawl Collar? (assuming soft shoulders/higher armholes).
-Guidance on Lapel width? (assuming I am not short & stocky; nor am I super tall & waif-like).
-Going with Grosgrain Lapel. But in midnight blue or black? (assuming SC is done up in midnight blue).
-Appreciate the idea of the linked button.

Shirt
-Will be MTM.
-Changed my mind on the shorter body; now thinking to keep it tailed as it ought to be tucked in for the desired look.
-Slim fit.
-Barrel cuff vs Cocktail cuff?

Jeans
-Slim fit raw denim.
-Not cuffed.
-Sounds like either dark Indigo or Black would be fine. (Already own a pair of indigo APC NS chain stitched at self edge to address excessive stacking issues; thinking about picking up another brand's pair in black if I can build a look around it.) (Not sure which brand's cut would be most flattering for me just yet.)

Boots
-Prefer Boots to other styles of shoes for this look. (Although would be interested to hear thoughts on if upcoming Carmina Python Austerity Brogue from Epaulet could be paired with this look? ... my gut reaction is to say No, as it might be too over-the-top & flashy.)
-Would Burgundy Carmina Chelsea boot clash too much color-wise & therefore I should hunt for black?
-Can a sleek chiseled black chelsea boot look good with raw denim jeans? Have seen some recent looks sporting raw denim with more shapely sleek boots in other threads being chastised for that particular pairing.
-Perhaps I am overthinking this boot/color issue as this is an evening after-dark ensemble anyway?

Thanks in advance.

honestly, you're trying too hard.

Just find a velvet SC from RLBL or something, throw on some jeans, a white shirt, and whatever similarly dressy shoes you have.

Your intro was toolish btw.

Run this by SW&D and see what comes back.

You might be interested in the "Black Tie Casual" thread linked in my signature