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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 142

post #2116 of 5776
tempting trousers from comma. both pairs are very cool and will fit my yohji wardrobe. ah.. decisions.

thanks for the store photos, i need to find time and go down to conduit street and check it out.
post #2117 of 5776
Thread Starter 
Damn, why did you guys have to post about comma? Pants I have been looking for from SS06 are on there too musicboohoo[1].gif

Store photos looks pretty cool too. The navy is really a great shade from all the pics I have seen. Definitely getting at least one navy and one red piece at least from this collection for sure. Just hope the fabric is usable in my part of the world.
post #2118 of 5776
sorry man. hope you mean it's the temptation that you're upset about and not that I blew your spot. edited my post from earlier in case it's the latter.
post #2119 of 5776
Thread Starter 
lol no, it's the former so you can put it back up biggrin.gif. I am on a self-imposed no buy restriction for this month, unfortunately awesome stuff keeps showing up, lol.
post #2120 of 5776
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidlee388 View Post

AW12 on Y! already!

http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r92007320

This looks amazing. 85% poly / 15% rayon... wonder what it's like in person. The black pilled/boiled wool version of the aw10 one-sleeve buttonable poncho cape is one of my holiest grails. If anyone sees the sz 3 plzzz let me know
post #2121 of 5776
Quote:
Originally Posted by cupper View Post

Brilliant Yohji-san interview by V&A (has it been posted already?)Yohji Yamamoto: The poet of black
"Yohji Yamamoto reflects on his thirty year career in fashion. In this 20-minute film shot in Yamamoto's Tokyo studio, the designer provides a laconic, engaging and sometimes passionate commentary on his career and design values. He considers how his work has evolved since his Paris debut and explains why he designs so differently for men and women and also provides a withering personal analysis of the current state of the fashion industry."
Kiko that SS06 coat looks awesome. nod[1].gif
Also thanks for the link.
I'm curious about the hakamas and although at the very end of the spectrum: love this look (Click to show)
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i've watched this interview more than 20 times. love the ss 04 video. i'm hoping to work on one of those tables next year. we shall see.

 

 

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also one of the jacket worn by v.westwood it's up for sale:

 

 

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Edited by dantebykiko - 7/20/12 at 12:39pm
post #2122 of 5776
Amazing, amazing jacket. Last summer the navy mao collar version (same jacquard fabric) with white hand stitching details was up for sale, full suit. Incredible. Wrong size for me but I still remember it
post #2123 of 5776

i'm sure after this post i'll be known as the person with the worst photos. i should stop buying yohji and get proper camera? nah. anyway, with my little knowledge i can agree with asobu about pre-06 y's garments. all of mine y's (not y's for men) are on the same level as yyph. for example this aw04 y's long coat - light weight felt - 103 code, has the same pockets as my ss06 long coat and funky trimming details, the trousers are y's aw03 - very heavy wool - 112 code, full of amazing details - back metal clinch, tweed patch over the pocket, the buttons etc. from now on i will have my eyes wide open for pre-06 y's.

 

herbert johnson's hand made hat, aw04 y's long coat, yyph knitted t-shirt, aw03 y's high-waisted trousers, hand painted vans.

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more bad quality photos (Click to show)

 

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even worst detail photos. (Click to show)

 

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that it's the label btw.

 

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post #2124 of 5776

wow that latest video was spellbinding.  the way he speaks in a deliberate manner had me in a trance.  it's unfortunate but true, his statement about men's clothing being more 1-dimensional compared to designing for women.  in most of the animal kingdom, the male species is flashier and more flamboyant, but with us it's different.  nevertheless, yohji still manages to push the boundaries of men's fashion and for that i respect him.

post #2125 of 5776

A few photos of Yohji working with the S/S2011 collection:

 

 

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post #2126 of 5776

Top Five Piece - this is actually one of a few Joint Fourth, it's a hard decision sometimes

 

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YYPH SS11 Black " Yohji Uniform " ( HO-J76-053 ) 100% cotton, thin shirt like fabric, body half lined in fabric, sleeves in cupro. 5B closure, 2 small metal hooks to fasten collar, 4 front flap pockets, top 2 buttoned. Buttonless sleeves. long back vent. Military/Japanese Schoolboy/Bruce Lee (?) inspired, size 3 very fitted short sihouette, the Yohji hunour being 2 metal " grenade hooks " no less on each side. 

 

YYPH SS10 black cotton pants with cuffed hems ( HJ-P12-008 ), Coming Soon black cotton SS Tee, CDG H+ belt, Timberland Creepers.

 

This " Yohji Uniform " has quite a history. Being similar in height to Yohji-San, and an avid fan worship2.gif I've always wanted to track down what he wears ( his a wool gab iteration I think, sometimes navy ) at the end of the Runway shows and see what it will look in person, the nostalgic me... The opportunity arose when this piece ( BNWT ) appeared in Y! last July and I duly snapped it up even as a size 3 ( thought it may be too big ). Shock horror it turned out to be very snug in the chest and armholes ( 99% sure it's a Japanese exclusive ) and it wouldn't fit comfortably. Yohji-San must be quite a bit trimmer. Devastated, it was put away in storage until a month ago ( realizing dieting to wear something aint the way ) it's taken to a tailor to see if armhole enlargement was possible. I was told it was constructed with very small seam tolerance ( sign of a masterpiece ) hence not a chance.... final attempt to make it fit before selling it regrettably was to remove the small shoulder pads. And....result, unbelievably it made a remarkable difference so now it's transformed from unwearable to a top five piece, at a cost of .....£6 exactly. A keeper forever rotflmao.gif


Edited by davidlee388 - 7/21/12 at 12:42pm
post #2127 of 5776
Looks like even without the shoulder pads there its still tension on the armhole seam. But as long as you feel okey in it and can move your arms up and down without lifting the whole jacket.

Btw I never looked at Yohji himself as inspiration, what he wears etc. Not very keen on "yohji's" uniform in general. But again that's my personal point of view.
post #2128 of 5776
Quote:
Originally Posted by dantebykiko View Post

i've watched this interview more than 20 times. love the ss 04 video. i'm hoping to work on one of those tables next year. we shall see.

Yeah that interview is great!
Kiko that would be awesome and a dream come true for you I imagine. Best of luck! fing02[1].gif

I'm seeing you working there and getting all these questions from us (at least from me lol):
- Hey Kiko could you please ask Yohji -san from which year is the HW code? lol8[1].gif


In the meantime here are some more photos from behind the curtain
(again from V&A, sorry if it has been posted already. There are still some pages I haven't read.)








Research trip - Tokyo: Yohji Yamamoto HQ

" Back in bustling Tokyo it is time for me to visit Yohji Yamamoto HQ in the business (but not financial) district Shinagawa. Amongst shiny, glass and metal-clad highrisers housing companies like Japan Airlines, Phillips and Nike, Yohji Yamamoto’s home looks rather incongruous – a fairly low and very black concrete block.

On entering, it becomes clear why: the studio of the design teams (he has separate ones for each of the brands he designs) is a large, calm, jam-packed room secluded from the outside world. Adjacent are rooms full of rolls of his custom-made fabric piled up to ceiling, a pattern cutting room, a sewing room and of course, Yohji’s office. When I am led in to conduct an hour-long interview for the book, I notice three guitars lying around various spots in the room. I remember: ‘of course, Yohji used to be in a band and tour around Japan’

After an intense 90 minutes of talking to Yohji Yamamoto, one of the things he said keeps coming back to me:

Very often I feel I’ve done almost everything. Then, the next question to myself is: ‘Why are you continuing the same thing?’ A very childish answer comes back: ‘Because I love clothing.’ And each time I’m working for the next collection, next season, during fitting, during cutting, each time I find some invention. That is the moment when I feel happy, this is the only moment I feel happy’ "
post #2129 of 5776
Quote:
Originally Posted by dantebykiko View Post

Looks like even without the shoulder pads there its still tension on the armhole seam. But as long as you feel okey in it and can move your arms up and down without lifting the whole jacket.
Btw I never looked at Yohji himself as inspiration, what he wears etc. Not very keen on "yohji's" uniform in general. But again that's my personal point of view.
You are right kiko, it's 9/10 on the comfort scale buttoned now, no problem worn open. I do like the style of the blazer, just thought being YYPH it will have the inherent oversizeness as given. Guess thats always the risk buying untried but never thought I'll need a sz 4! The uniform thing just a bit of nostalgia lol. Hence this is not #1 piece.
post #2130 of 5776
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidlee388 View Post

Top Five Piece - this is actually one of a few Joint Fourth, it's a hard decision sometimes


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


YYPH SS11 Black " Yohji Uniform " ( HO-J76-053 ) 100% cotton, thin shirt like fabric, body half lined in fabric, sleeves in cupro. 5B closure, 2 small metal hooks to fasten collar, 4 front flap pockets, top 2 buttoned. Buttonless sleeves. long back vent. Military/Japanese Schoolboy/Bruce Lee (?) inspired, size 3 very fitted short sihouette, the Yohji hunour being 2 metal " grenade hooks " no less on each side. 

YYPH SS10 black cotton pants with cuffed hems ( HJ-P12-008 ), Coming Soon black cotton SS Tee, CDG H+ belt, Timberland Creepers.

This " Yohji Uniform " has quite a history. Being similar in height to Yohji-San, and an avid fan worship2.gif  I've always wanted to track down what he wears ( his a wool gab iteration I think, sometimes navy ) at the end of the Runway shows and see what it will look in person, the nostalgic me... The opportunity arose when this piece ( BNWT ) appeared in Y! last July and I duly snapped it up even as a size 3 ( thought it may be too big ). Shock horror it turned out to be very snug in the chest and armholes ( 99% sure it's a Japanese exclusive ) and it wouldn't fit comfortably. Yohji-San must be quite a bit trimmer. Devastated, it was put away in storage until a month ago ( realizing dieting to wear something aint the way ) it's taken to a tailor to see if armhole enlargement was possible. I was told it was constructed with very small seam tolerance ( sign of a masterpiece ) hence not a chance.... final attempt to make it fit before selling it regrettably was to remove the small shoulder pads. And....result, unbelievably it made a remarkable difference so now it's transformed from unwearable to a top five piece, at a cost of .....£6 exactly. A keeper forever rotflmao.gif

David great jacket! Another one I think you haven't posted, I guess you can open that rent-a-yohji rotflmao.gif

I was outbid for a somewhat similar (without the grenade hooks and different collar) red y's for men jacket in grey. ffffuuuu.gif

Also I see you are going for a 5,4,3,2... posts for ultimate suspense lol.
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