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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    quick fit post. got my two jackets from japan and an pair of vintage (80's) trousers. the jacket it's size 1 with code HT - J27 - 100. I wore it the other day for my crit and the first thing that my menswear tutor asked me was: "Is this Yohji from 90's?" it's funny how the fabric speaks more than the design in a way. also the buttons on the pants are the same all of his current trousers. impressive consistency.

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    3 people like this.
  2. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Good stuff dantebykiko. I especially like the pants. Very cool that the buttons are the same style now as they were in the 80s. I wonder whether it is the same manufacturer that makes them for him?

    Quick fit pic for me as well -

    Picked up this lab coat from asobu a few months back and love how light it is. The edges of the pockets, lapel and sleeves are beginning to fray ever so slightly and it adds so much character. The fabric is almost translucent because of how light it is and it makes for an awesome effect whenever a bit of breeze blows by. Been meaning to pair it with actual cropped wide pants like the ones I picked up from ln-cc so couldn't wait to put this all together.


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    Last edited: Jun 10, 2012
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  3. brad-t

    brad-t Well-Known Member

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    It really makes me think of Kiryuyrik napoleon jacket :O

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  4. Synthese

    Synthese Darth Millennial

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    parker that shit shit is too legit. never stop.
     
  5. hoozah

    hoozah Well-Known Member

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    yeah you pull YY off surprisingly well.
     
  6. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    what's the t-shirt?? been searching for good white t-shirts for couple of weeks now. the coat if you even can call it coat looks really cozy, which season is it? i like where the sleeves are ending typical 1950's cut.
     
  7. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

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    The coat looks beautiful Ivwri. In hindsight, one of the things I quite regret selling, hehe. I'm glad you're doing it justice though! It really is incredibly light, "structured"/constructed like a coat but pretty much weighs like a shirt, quite something in person.


    Anyway fashionchannel has granted us more goodies from the vaults, clips from 89 and 90. Unfortunately not the full shows though, but the majority of the looks I guess:


    S/S 1989

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    A/W 1989-1990

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    S/S 1990

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    A/W 1990-1991

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  8. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    The t-shirt is a sleeveless Ann Demeulemeester one. Dunno what season the coat is actually. The fabric is very translucent so asobu had cut off the fabric labels a while back I believe. He would probably be the best person to ask (if he remembers, hehe). The sleeves are definitely one of the highlights of the coat for sure.
     
  9. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

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    And apparently also the full show from S/S 1996 !

    Part 1 of 8:

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    What do you guys think about this hat? I picked it up on a whim as I was getting more interested in hats and pairing them with Yohji stuff. Not sure about the high crown at the moment, but it might be because I generally don't wear hats often. Also feels like it may be a bit too much of a statement piece to wear casually?


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    Last edited: Jun 11, 2012
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  11. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    That looks the part :) You are looking more and more like a Yohji Catwalk model. I don't know when you started aboard the Yohji boat, but you could have been picked to walk the V&A show last year using real life couples wearing SS11 YYPH and YYF.
     
  12. syed

    syed Well-Known Member

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    Ivwri That's one of the CdG H+ hats right? I tried some of them on at DSM but they were all too small for me :( I actually like the high crown, but I think it would look better if you pulled it down at the front - probably not beret low, but maybe three fingers width from the top of your eyebrow? Looking at the last photo it just seems like it could be pushed forwards a touch. And that lab coat looks so good, I really want something like that in black!

    Going back to the videos valter posted, I liked the way Yohji talks about his favourite young designers being those with a slight innocence. I do wonder whether it is still possible for those types of designers to still succeed though. Money, money, money, it seems inescapable in an industry where designers have to increasingly think in terms of that which will sell the most. There seem to be a greater number of 'hype' pieces in menswear today - easily identifiable, and thus sellable, symbols for people to parade. Whether it be a rottweiler sweatshirt or a t-shirt with a screaming gorilla on it. Designers are increasingly thinking of what will be photographed easily for magazines, blogs, streetstyle columns, etc. A very loud print or design element becomes a form of branding, without the perceived vulgarity of sticking the brand name in flaming text across the chest.

    What I like so much about Yohji, and my other favourite designers, is that there is no screaming for attention. You wear something and it whispers its beauty into the ear of the viewer. His clothes don't shout for attention, they are simply what they are. I hate to talk of clothing being 'genuine', but in a sense I think his clothing has a sense of truth to it. Sometimes fashion can hide behind a loud design, in the sense that people wear it and that is what you see - the design and not the person behind it. People pile on 'it' item after 'it' item with no real regard for aesthetics, simply to belong to the microcosm of those 'in fashion', whilst simultaneously standing apart from the general crowd. With the young designers that Yohji talks about, of those who simply lose themselves in what they love, I think it is a more positive way of designing and dressing, but does it stand a chance in the way the industry operates today? I'd like to think that those who really love it will be enough to support those designers and help to keep them working, but at the same time I wonder whether they will soon learn the hard way that they need to create at least something to prance in front of the fashion crowd.
     
  13. Guy Burgess

    Guy Burgess Well-Known Member

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    the hat looks great, i think it works really well and agree with syed that you could wear it further down too.

    I actually feel the same way about mine and it being a bit of a statement piece but i've decided that a lot of people probably think other stuff i wear is weird too and it doesn't stop me.
     
  14. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Haha. Not sure whether the catwalk model look is something I was going for, but I'll take that as a compliment :embar: :).




    Thanks for the feedback guys, tried it lower just now and it looks better. syed the hat is indeed CdG H+.

    I agree with what you say that more and more it seems like to be a successful designer you need to focus more on marketing than creativity. However, I think it should be possible to hit a happy medium between commercial viability and art. Rei Kawakubo would be an obvious example here, albeit with tons of diffusion labels, but there are also designers like Phoebe Philo who seem to have hit on a formula that work for them as well; Yohji is also straddling that fine line pretty well of late I think. At the end of the day, any designer that is going to focus more on expressing themselves is not going to make as much money as say a Chanel or Gucci (especially without the brand name cache backing them with customers), but I think the market is expanding enough - particularly with menswear - to accommodate this "innocent designer" as Yohji described.

    The thing is to be a designer first and an artist second. As long as you can make your brand recognizable, make very good clothing, and plan your business well, there will always be a niche willing to patronize. Maybe I am optimistic in this regard, but I hope it does work out like this.
     
  15. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Well-Known Member

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    the awesomeness in this thread is awesome. dante, cool look bud! hats great ivwri, suit you imo
     
  16. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    very quick post. something i styled for "the green soccer journal". i asked my friend if i can borrow his hakamas and marcell shoes.

    ps: really like this hat, you should get "unused rabbit hat" from ln-cc. it will work really well with your yohji, i think.

    http://www.thegreensoccerjournal.com/france-v-england/

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  17. Lionheart Biker

    Lionheart Biker Well-Known Member

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    It´s just not fair how much swag Iwvri has. That´s an amazing look, man. Hat´s pretty cool.
     
  18. Parker

    Parker Well-Known Member

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    nicely done, dante. are you a stylist? designer? student?

    lab coat looks great, ivwri. so does the hat, but it somehow reminds me of a winter / rainy weather hat. what's the material?

    thanks for posting those shows, asobu. what strikes me are the recurring themes or elements that yohji uses over time. you can see the big bow ties, the poofy sleeves, the silk print jacket over skirt/flowing pants thing that pop up later even in the mens collections 15 years later.


    good points, syed. I think when something is designed from a really personal place, it will feel that way (genuine, authentic, original, etc), even though it's still a commercial product. there's also "timeless" which is another loaded word, but seems appropriate. as he mentions in some of those interviews, Yohji considers his stuff outside of fashion trends (or at least he tries to do that). whether or not it really can be is up for debate, but I think there's something to it. His designs have a lot of historical references, and they don't always seem fresh and new, but to me they feel like you'll still want to wear them whether it was 10 years ago or 10 years from now.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2012
  19. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Well-Known Member

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    ivwri, just wondering, what's the material of the coat in your hat pic? sorry if you posted it somewhere and I just missed it.
     
  20. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    bit of all. studying menswear at central st. martins, the styling it's just for fun and taking break from the intense timetable. it's more like building different shapes and proportions for my future references, i'm not really interested in current garments and what's on trend.

    same goes for what i wear actually, that's why i really enjoy buying yohji and particually vintage and second hand of his designs. the other reason it's i can't afford to buy straight from the shop but that's no excuse not to wear it. as you say his designs have different points of inspirations and he curate them really well. he breaks this "old" with some funny or clever designs (prints, pockets etc). also japanese people have very good intuition for proportions and textures which not many western people do have.

    it's great discussion but i'm not really use to write on forums, whould be fantastic if we can sit and talk since i'm re-writing what i want to say 10 times..

    anyway, it's easier with fitposts: 1950's french chore jacket, yyph a/w 09 shirt, charity shop uniqlo pants (£2,50!) and cdg boots. also the second jacket that i got from japan. code: HV - J35 - 103. 90% laine wool 10% cashmere. the buttons holes are beautiful. (it's my gf who it's wearing it today with new yohji pants i found in vintage shop for her).


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    3 people like this.

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