Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[asobu]

Yes, any shirting from YYPH or Y's is great stuff. I love the fit of YYPH shirts, both old and new, and try to get my hands on good ones in good condition whenever I can.

stadsvandringar, as Ivwri said the pics on Vogue is the full show. The numbering must be some kind of mistake. The collection finished with the Madness dance, one of my favorite segments from any of his shows. I also think this is one of the best fall shows he did in the 00's, some amazing stuff there and it's really a shame that there doesn't seem to be any kind of video or decent quality photos available online. Except for the pics on vogue, I have a few more from the zipper series:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

2000!

 

[ArsenalDan]

A) Great thread, really nice content. Great resource for learning (and seeing) a lot about a great designer.

B) though I'm not about to wear any YY (I'll be working at a large corporate law firm come fall), it's nonetheless inspiration in terms of silhouette; YY can really be blended with "menswear" in an elegant way, I think...something particularly obvious from the FW12/13 stuff posted recently. Loved that collection for that reason, probably. Really gives me ideas on how to wear the fuller-cut Cucinnelli cords I found at a Goodwill ( for $10 )

 

[stadsvandringar]

Thanks for the info. 78 looks does seem like a lot for a season, but maybe he was feeling extra prolific or something

. That's interesting though, because I've seen a fair amount of material from that season that I guess didn't end up on the runway. The reason I asked in particular is because I just bought a parka from that season and wanted a runway fit pic. Oh well though.

Also, going back to the footwear discussion, it's my impression that Yohji uses a variety of manufacturers for the shoes, hence the variety quality-wise. The big name collaborations with Dr. Martins, Adidas or George Cox are fairly obvious, but I know he's used the manufacturer for Common Projects among others as well. I've got several pairs of his mainline and Y's tennis shoes which I love and have held up very well. I've handled his dressier shoes but never pulled the trigger. My complaints there are that in more recent seasons (especially AW10) he used a lot of gum soles which I really dislike, or the designs are such blatant copies of other heritage style brands that it's not really worth it.

Consider the following:



These look just like Danner boots, although perhaps not as nice and definitely not lined in goretex.


Again, the gum sole here is very off-putting, although I would like it much more if it had a normal sole.

My point here is that other brands' shoes work just as well. I've got some docs, red wings and danner shoes, all of which match of very well.

 

[Caveat]

Which shirt would you recommend from SS12 if you had to pick one that would work well with a variety of his coats? Here are looks 2 and 3 from SS12 and these two look great to me. Thoughts or other recommendations? I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants to experiment with Yohji, but would only wear it enough to need one white shirt at this point.

 

[Master Milano]

first one people need more band collars

 

[hoozah]

#1 because without the collar it looks more unique than most shirts

 

[Parker]

Another Yohji tumblr page. Some nice photos. http://yohjiyamamotolove.tumblr.com/

I like this casual look:

Sorry for the post dump, but I just found what looks like a full video for Yohji's AW 2003/2004 pour homme collection and had to share

This show is fun-kay! Sort of 30s jazz age. I like the jacket cuts, esp. these:

Spoiler: YY A/W 2003/4

 

[Ivwri]

Got my first delivery of SS12 stuff !

Shout out to impolyt_one who made it all possible and for even helping me out with sizing up on an item I would not have (the silk tapered hakamas are a size 5 not my usual 4, but the waist is very adjustable), everything fits just the way I want and the quality is insane.

The only surprise I encountered, and I shall put it here as a warning to anyone planning on getting the tapered buttoned hem hakama pants (and to a lesser extent, the standard hakamas) -

Your boxers are going to show through the sides of the pants. They are not fastened with a typical fly but are cinched at the sides with flaps of fabric. Beside the pockets are slits running down where the boxers are supposed to show through. Guess it makes sense now why on the price list there are actual silk boxer shorts available for purchase . It also explains the vivid colour shown in what I thought was the pocket lining - I was scoping the model's boxers!

If you wear a large shirt this should not be a problem, but for smaller jackets and shirts, you may want to bring out your very nice underwear (I shall use a pair of Alexander McQueen skull print silk boxers I have for the moment until I can grab the YY ones).

My wife thinks the wide hakamas are a bit more ceremonial or formal. I haven't made up my mind yet about how and where I will wear them, but I am pretty sure I will just end up wearing them everywhere as they are damned comfortable in this (100% cotton) iteration.

Anyway, pics below -

Spoiler: Detail shot

100% silk

Spoiler: Detail shots

100% cotton

Spoiler: Detail shots

100% cotton (pardon the flip-flops, lounging at home)

Spoiler: Detail shots

100% cotton

Spoiler: And last, but not the least

100% cotton

 

[asobu]

******* epic. Really happy for you man, what a great haul. That first shirt is the reversible from L1?

 

[KingJulien]

That's really cool, Ivwri. I especially like the first pair. To you guys that wear a lot of YY - do you get a lot of looks/comments on your clothing? I think I'd be self-conscious wearing a lot of it

.

 

[Ivwri]



******* epic. Really happy for you man, what a great haul. That first shirt is the reversible from L1?

Thanks dude. And yeah, the first one is indeed the reversible shirt. You were right on the money when you said that it seemed to be going quick. Was sold out already, but Drew was able to get the manager to bring in another one from elsewhere. It also fits oversized if one sizes as normal.

That's really cool, Ivwri.  I especially like the first pair. To you guys that wear a lot of YY - do you get a lot of looks/comments on your clothing?  I think I'd be self-conscious wearing a lot of it 

.

Well, I do get a lot of second looks whenever I am out and about, but I think the people at my daily haunts are used to seeing me in YY, hehe. When I was in The Gambia though I did get two separate people come up to me to tell me that I was wearing my shirt inside out - I was wearing the raw seam shirt/jacket from AW11. Had to tell them that's how it was supposed to look. My friends are used to me wearing slightly unusual stuff so I don't get much comment beyond simple inquiries etc.

 

[wireartists]

bloody amazing! That shirt on look nº1 shall be mine one day, I've been investing my reduced funds on my furniture design venture and had to stay away from it , atelier bought it so there is a slight chance still. congrats!

I did noticed on the runaway that the hakamas had the "underwear" issue, I do have some silk lining already from some knit pants. The pair I got doesn't show any underwear though. Now I need one pair with elastic waist.

I took the resolution of buying only wool gabardine from now on after checking again aw94YYfemme, endless slight variations is the perfect uniform.

I wore the hakamas twice already (0ºc-5ºc) using some long socks. I was surprised how people really didn't noticed them, they are very elegant indeed. I wore them with a blue shirt/green belt/monkey boots + long coat and massive shawl and the day after with a slim white shirt tucked in from ss07.

They re-stocked the cotton hakamas in japan (price was amazing), btw looking at your fit I can tell I'm a ******* dwarf compared to you lol. I do love how it fits on me though.

Regarding people's opinions...mmm in my experience the more confident you are the less they notice you are wearing unconventional clothing. I live in Berlin now and in a windy day, the hakamas + long coat where quite the show and no one really stared at me haha

 

[Ivwri]



bloody amazing! That shirt on look nº1 shall be mine one day, I've been investing my reduced funds on my furniture design venture and had to stay away from it , atelier bought it so there is a slight chance still. congrats!
I did noticed on the runaway that the hakamas had the "underwear" issue, I do have some silk lining already from some knit pants. The pair I got doesn't show any underwear though. Now I need one pair with elastic waist.
I took the resolution of buying only wool gabardine from now on after checking again aw94YYfemme, endless slight variations is the perfect uniform.
I wore the hakamas twice already (0ºc-5ºc) using some long socks. I was surprised how people really didn't noticed them, they are very elegant indeed. I wore them with a blue shirt/green belt/monkey boots + long coat and massive shawl and the day after with a slim white shirt tucked in from ss07.
They re-stocked the cotton hakamas in japan (price was amazing), btw looking at your fit I can tell I'm a ******* dwarf compared to you lol. I do love how it fits on me though.
Regarding people's opinions...mmm in my experience the more confident you are the less they notice you are wearing unconventional clothing. I live in Berlin now and in a windy day, the hakamas + long coat where quite the show and no one really stared at me haha

I wish I could do something similar, but I am too weak. The idea of missing out on silks, linens and various blends would drive me nuts

Your fit with the hakamas sounds awesome. Wish you had a pic, especially of when the wind picked up

You're also perfectly right. If you are confident and act like you're not wearing anything particularly odd (unless you ARE wearing something really out there) no one will notice, and even if they do, they will not just mock you off the bat and instead be curious at the very least. But, even if anyone says anything, it doesn't matter.

Wearing Yohji (or any high fashion designer for that matter) can be about showing one's outsider status and with the way Yohji's clothes typically are, one is so comfortable wearing them that there's no room to be self-conscious at all

 

[wireartists]

for me is quite easy since 70% of my wardrobe is already gabardine lol. seriously, i love some tweeds and those will be the exception.

 

[MyMindSpray]

Ivwri....that cardigan/jacket looks amazing....how does it handle in real life?