The State of Black Tie: Your Observations



sftiger said:

I have been seriously thinking for about a year now of ordering a few meters of my family tartan from Kinloch Anderson and having Luxire make up some tartan pants with a silk stripe down the side to go with my dinner jacket. I can't find (on SF or elsewhere) first-hand examples of people doing this, so I've been hesitant since it would be expensive and I'm sure I'd screw something up. I went to BB and they quoted me about $800 for them to do this for me, which was a little expensive for my budget.

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Gant made a beautiful blackwatch dinner suit last year. It was far in excess of my budget however.

J

BB's blackwatch dinner jacket is/was sublime. I don't know if they've been relegated to the outlets or put back in the vault, but I was trying one on at the New Orleans store last spring and the manager informed me that she had just received instructions to send them all back to the warehouse.

As for the trousers, I tried these on earlier this week but opted for the more subdued blackwatch tartan (also without silk braid):


The blackwatch trou with a navy blazer and the right bow tie make for a rig that I am comfortable wearing to non-BT Christmas parties.

I'd feel odd wearing them with a brass button blazer, and don't have a plain navy blazer. I do have a couple of blackwatch sport coats, one linen, and one medium weight wool one which I wear at every opportunity though I struggle to find pant/tie combinations that work well.

J

J011yroger said:

I'd feel odd wearing them with a brass button blazer, and don't have a plain navy blazer. I do have a couple of blackwatch sport coats, one linen, and one medium weight wool one which I wear at every opportunity though I struggle to find pant/tie combinations that work well.

J

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If only there were some way to turn a brass button blazer into a regular button blazer. Well, until we live in a world with such amazing technology...

ImTheGroom said:

If only there were some way to turn a brass button blazer into a regular button blazer. Well, until we live in a world with such amazing technology...

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Lol, I live on LI, isn't it some sort of crime to de-brass a navy blazer here?

In all seriousness, if I switched out the buttons on one of my six million navy blazers, I think it would still be a too casual cut.

I think a nice navy, just shy of midnight, two button, possibly peak lapel, possibly jetted pockets, with nice pick stitching and a beefy shoulder would look great, but what the heck else would you wear it with. Bearing in mind that this is an outfit that I am going to struggle to find a reason to wear once per year.

Unrelatedly, I've been meaning to ask you, is there a proper name for the pants you wear with morning dress?

J



J011yroger said:

I've been meaning to ask you, is there a proper name for the pants you wear with morning dress?

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Cashmere stripe?

J011yroger said:

Unrelatedly, I've been meaning to ask you, is there a proper name for the pants you wear with morning dress?

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The pants one generally wears, or the pants that I wear, specifically? One generally calls them morning trousers. As to the pattern, Veremund is correct - the most traditional pattern is called cashmere stripe:


Mine are just grey pants with a black plaid pattern; they are a less common choice, but equally correct. Glen plaid is the most common check pattern, apparently. Here is a primer on morning trousers:
http://andrewsandpygott.wordpress.com/trousers/

And here's one of our bespoke cummerbund and bow ties our totally bespoke handmade.

What do you think? Your opinion is very important to me.

YOU HAVE THE OLD PICTURES OF OLD CUMMERBUND? The'm trying but I can not find them.

What do you guys think about a full wrap around cummerbund? I've only seen it once before.



poorsod said:

What do you guys think about a full wrap around cummerbund? I've only seen it once before.

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Was it a real wrap, or something that had a fastener?
I've always been curious as to how a real wrap would feel and whether it would be comfortable enough, and non-bulky enough to wear. But I like the idea enough to at least want to try it out.



Veremund said:

Cashmere stripe?

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ImTheGroom said:

The pants one generally wears, or the pants that I wear, specifically? One generally calls them morning trousers. As to the pattern, Veremund is correct - the most traditional pattern is called cashmere stripe: Mine are just grey pants with a black plaid pattern; they are a less common choice, but equally correct. Glen plaid is the most common check pattern, apparently. Here is a primer on morning trousers: http://andrewsandpygott.wordpress.com/trousers/

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Thanks much. J

dopey said:

Was it a real wrap, or something that had a fastener?
I've always been curious as to how a real wrap would feel and whether it would be comfortable enough, and non-bulky enough to wear. But I like the idea enough to at least want to try it out.

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Thanks for your comment. We also those without elastic sides. The fabric comes all the way down and the closure is Velcro. So adheres well and is perfect for any time that you are wearing. Then we also do not wrinkled. Now I'll show you the picture and.

Here is the lacing I told you ... it's Traps at the bottom.

Was this what you meant? HOWEVER, IF YOU HAVE A MODEL THAT DREAMS OF HAVING ME THE DRAWINGS AND WE DO IT WITHOUT PROBLEMS.

If you want the whole front as high as you can do.

Doing everything by hand and only bespoke anything is possible.

The fabric of the photo is very vintage and still printed by hand.

poorsod said:

What do you guys think about a full wrap around cummerbund? I've only seen it once before.

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Thank you for your response. Really. I just posted an answer that perhaps you may like.

Was this what you mean?

No, Gianni. The cummerbund derives from an Indian silk sash (like a scarf) that was folded and wrapped around the waist, as an alternative to a waistcoat. Once that became popular, people manufactured it as the folded was it covering that has a fastener in the back rather than a full wrap. That is what we are discussing. The original method is very rare and not used very much at all.