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BlackTieFoo: Shirt Studs and Other Fooish Contemplations

post #1 of 139
Thread Starter 
A black tie wedding is coming up in mid-November, and I'll be giving the Maid of Honor speech (long story), so I need to revamp the makeshift black tie ensemble I've used in the past. That means I'll be getting a proper bib-front shirt, black tie appropriate shoes, and shirt studs.

The last of the three is my most immediate concern. I'd like to stay under $500 (well under, if possible), which leaves me with silver rather than gold or platinum. So, the questions are: what source, what design, what stone, if any? I dug around the internet and found an old jewelery/antique shop in London specializing in sivler that does bespoke cufflinks and studs. The front runner are studs in this shape, but with garnets instead of lapis:

sd11-lap%20copy.200.jpg

Here are examples of their off-the-shelf studs:

SIL_STUDS_300.jpg

I'm not going to bother with matching cufflinks--I'd rather avoid the cost and prefer to be less perfectly matched. What do you all think? I'm not familiar with stud-fastening mechanisms, so I'm not sure if swivel backs on these are a good or bad feature--is there a classic or preferred alternative?

For shoes, I'm leaning on patent leather oxfords from Alden:

9373.jpg

I originally considered Belgian Shoes or slippers of some sort, but the Belgians don't fit me and I don't have the time or patience to mail slippers back and forth from England to figure out my size.

The shirt will be bespoke from Geneva in New York City. Pique bib front on voile body with pique collar and cuffs. Spread, turn down collar.

The other stuff I've already got: white barathea braces with white goatskin ends, fancy silk socks, and--of course--cream silk pocket square. Am I forgetting something?

* For the record: I do sort of care what people think this time, but it probably won't look like it, and there is a distinct likelihood I will decide everything on my own while waiting for a cab to take me home tonight.
post #2 of 139
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Edited by F. Corbera - 10/18/11 at 5:02pm
post #3 of 139
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

It's likely that with your shawl DB, only one stud will show. That's good. Just avoid anything MoP. I approve of mismatching the dress set.
I think that a pleated front on the shirt would fit the mood of you jacket better. Consider less spread on the collar to avoid having the points disappearing behind the bow.
Brooks supposedly carries bowed pumps in both patent and plain calf, both made in England. Why not try them on in the store? Even if they're not as swell as the EG versions, those Aldens make me a bit sad.
You'll make a beautiful maiden.

Thanks. The DB DJ buttons low, though--4x1 and all. So, two studs may show. What do you think of them?

Maybe I'll head over to Brooks on Madison tomorrow. Are the patent Aldens so bad? I'd install silk laces for what it's worth.
post #4 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

... those Aldens make me a bit sad.
You'll make a beautiful maiden.

not only you and +1
post #5 of 139
Perhaps this is too mundane for you, but I've been happy with this stud and cufflink set:
http://www.paulstuart.com/product_info.cfm?ProdID=1773&ProdCatId=1035&MainCatId=14&HEADERMENUID=1&SUBPRODCATID=0
It's simple, classic, and modestly priced. I prefer the simplicity of onyx for formal wear, but I can understand that some people may want something a little more interesting.
post #6 of 139
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Edited by F. Corbera - 10/18/11 at 5:02pm
post #7 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

A black tie wedding is coming up in mid-November, and I'll be giving the Maid of Honor speech (long story), so I need to revamp the makeshift black tie ensemble I've used in the past.

I suppose "revamp" is one word.

But how are you going to wear studs and links with a floor-length dress?

I have gone the non-matching route myself on occasion. I find it works best when the links and studs are not too non-matching. I don't like the MOP studs either. I usually use a carnelian set. They're relatively inexpensive and that tiny amount of color in black tie punches things up while remaining tasteful.

BTW, what is the name of the London shop you found?
post #8 of 139

H. Herzfield has pumps as well. And I agree - they look far smarter than those Aldens.

post #9 of 139
Polished up punch caps not good enough?
Personally not a fan of studs, but if you have to what about something in plain silver like this (Not necessarily the knot)
post #10 of 139
Thread Starter 
Ah, forgot about Herzfeld--will definitely checkout.

The cufflinks are from a place called M.P. Levene. Anybody know anything about them?
post #11 of 139
Have you visited the Missing Link? Their selection of cufflinks and studs is unparalleled.

Coincidentally I recently made a tux shirt too, similar to yours, except with a detachable collar and not voile. I wear an SB with vest though.

For shoes I'm went with this EG from Leffot

DSC_00183.jpg

Not strictly correct, but it is prettier than other options I've seen. The best RTW i have seen (and correct to boot) is from JLP but was around $1000-1500 which is too rich for my blood.
post #12 of 139
I've never seen anyone wear pumps. Excepting this guy, if it counts (I thought they looked... better?). Frankly, I am creeped out.

post #13 of 139
^^ Is THAT what you guys were talking about? Wow, that's weird.
post #14 of 139
Never heard of Levene. But their shirt studs seem fairly priced. I rather like this one.

http://www.mplevene.co.uk/15174.aspx

In fact, I am sure I have seen it before somewhere. Maybe the Tateossian on Conduit street? It was probably more expensive there, however.
post #15 of 139
save time on the stud set
http://missinglinknyc.com/ has the best selection and his prices are fair.

Have you ever worn a voile shirt before?

voile was great when formal wear was made from 14 oz or heavier.

Voile is transparent.. if you take your jacket off, your friends, no matter how sartorally inclined they are, will not get it.

I would at least use a batiste or a lighter weight b/c.

not sure how you are going to stay under $500
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