Help building fit for cocktail / awards event

[joegeis]

Hi all - new member here! My work is having its first in person annual awards event since COVID. The event is in early October in Baltimore. I have attended these events in the past and although they never really provide clear dress code guidance, I would call it cocktail attire. Dark suits with plenty of non-business flair is acceptable. Of course, the majority of employees are not concerned about style, and simply wear their business uniform, or look like they are going to a homecoming dance, but those that put in a little more effort really shine at these events.

A little about me:
I'm 38 years old, from the midwest, white, with short dark hair. Navy, burgundy and jewel tones look good on me. I've lost 40 pounds and none of my old clothes fit anymore (5'10", 172lbs, 40" chest, 32" waist). I'm slowly replacing all my work and formal clothes as I need them. I recently purchased blue and grey bonobos blazers, but now I'm thinking it's time for a new suit. I would love to go with a basic versatile color, as I do not wear suits often. I have a good tailor

Here is what I am thinking so far:
Spier & Mackay Navy Suit in Slim
Well pressed white dress shirt, semi spread, french cuffs (already own)
Thursday Boots Chairman in Chocolate (already own) with matching belt

I know it's super basic, but that also means versatile. I want to use accessories to make it less boring. I am thinking a paisley silk pocket square with a solid or simple patterned tie in a matching color, cuff links, watch, etc.

Questions:
1. Is my approach of navy suit, dark oxford shoes, white shirt a good idea for a base? What else would you recommend?
2. What advice do you have on accessories? I'm a fairly conservative guy in the office, so I don't want to go off the deep end, but also don't want to look like I'm ready for an interview.

Thanks!

edit - I just realized my forum avatar is a picture of me (one of those AI generated ones), so now you have a good idea of my complexion, lol.

 

[Bankers_Stripes]

I think your approach is solid and is very much in line with my own personal style and very much how I dress. You can almost never go wrong with a navy suit, white shirt, and dark Oxford cap toe shoes like you’ve chosen. It’s a great look and in my opinion if the suit and shirt fits well you’ll look 100% better than someone who’s trying too hard with a fancy patterned sport coat etc.

For accessories, I wouldn’t go overboard. Guys who are new to dressing nice tend to go overboard with tie clips, suspenders, pocket squares, etc. and it quite often looks like too much. I think I would avoid all accessories, just wear a nice tie in some shade of blue or perhaps brown.

Now, regarding pocket squares I do own some beautiful squares but I almost never wear them. Just my personal preference but I find for a lot of guys adding pocket squares can quickly make them go from “looking sharp” territory to “look at me, I’m trying so hard to be dapper” territory.

That’s just my personal preference. Others here will differ I’m sure.

But you can never go wrong with a navy suit, dark cap toes, and a white shirt and tie. It’s my all time favorite look, you can pretty much dress like this to any formal occasion and be totally fine. Regarding your comment about worrying about looking like you’re going to an interview - don’t. You’ll look fine, no one will think that.

 

[rjc149]

When it comes to suit accessories, less is better. Basic is better.

Matching the pocket square with your tie is a faux pas, I wouldn't do that. Also, a loud-patterned pocket square in a puff fold or an elaborate multi-peak is pushing gaudy and screams ESPN sportscaster. I would just go with a simple white one in a presidential fold.

Since this is an awards ceremony and a celebratory event, cuff links are fine and these are the only occasions I personally wear them.

 

[joegeis]

Thanks guys, much appreciated. I'll stick with the basics. Any tie recommendations? I have a few from the tie bar from a few years ago - i think they may be wool? They are solid navy, burgundy and green, very matte, not shiny like silk.

 

[Bankers_Stripes]

Thanks guys, much appreciated. I'll stick with the basics. Any tie recommendations? I have a few from the tie bar from a few years ago - i think they may be wool? They are solid navy, burgundy and green, very matte, not shiny like silk.

Wool ties are fine, but just remember wool ties are always a bit more casual than silk. Wool tends to pair better with odd sport jackets than full suits. If you don’t want something that’s shiny silk, a silk navy grenadine tie would be a great choice. I have some from Turnbull & Asser that are my favorites, but I’m sure any half decent brand will do. Would always recommend a navy grenadine tie to anyone - great, muted tie choice that’s classy, goes with virtually any suit color but is never over the top.

 

[joegeis]

I'm not particularly looking for a matte tie - I wouldn't mind picking something up to round out my options. Given how sober the rest of the outfit is, should I stick with something muted?

Actually - I just ran across this pocket square, which I really love. I'm wondering about pairing this with a muted tie (maybe navy grenadine?) It's definitely more loud than white linen, but its not too out there.

 

[Bankers_Stripes]

I'm not particularly looking for a matte tie - I wouldn't mind picking something up to round out my options. Given how sober the rest of the outfit is, should I stick with something muted?

Actually - I just ran across this pocket square, which I really love. I'm wondering about pairing this with a muted tie (maybe navy grenadine?) It's definitely more loud than white linen, but its not too out there.

This is just my personal preference but that pocket square is too much. Pocket squares are notoriously hard to pull off as is and that pocket square has bright yellow which is even more hard to pull off.

I don’t mean to sound overweening but just for some perspective, as someone who wears suits all the time from virtually every top Italian suit maker you can think of, and loves nothing more than to dress up for an important event or just day to day, I can count on one hand the amount of times I ever even wore a pocket square. I can’t think of a single instance I’d ever wear that pocket square, or any really, anywhere. Most outfits look better without them.

Now again, just my personal preference. Others here love pocket squares but will readily admit that they can make or break an outfit.

My two cents - ditch the pocket square entirely and just focus on finding a nice tie.

 

[maxalex]

I would counsel against wearing a dark solid necktie, only because that’s what everyone does these days (if they wear a tie at all), and it’s clichéd and boring.

Especially for an event, a tie is a chance to add color to your outfit. A silk foulard or repp stripe will set off your suit. Look at Biden’s neckties for examples. And notice he almost always wears a white pocket square.

 

[rjc149]

I'm not particularly looking for a matte tie - I wouldn't mind picking something up to round out my options. Given how sober the rest of the outfit is, should I stick with something muted?

Actually - I just ran across this pocket square, which I really love. I'm wondering about pairing this with a muted tie (maybe navy grenadine?) It's definitely more loud than white linen, but its not too out there.

I think this pocket square (and pocket squares in general) would be better on a no-tie outfit, on a sport coat for example, or suit sans tie. Pairing this with a tie would have a little too much going on.

If you're going to have a pocket square with a tie, the tie should be louder, the pocket square more muted. A pocket square is more of an accent, not a piece of flair.

 

[Bankers_Stripes]

I would counsel against wearing a dark solid necktie, only because that’s what everyone does these days (if they wear a tie at all), and it’s clichéd and boring.

Especially for an event, a tie is a chance to add color to your outfit. A silk foulard or repp stripe will set off your suit. Look at Biden’s neckties for examples. And notice he almost always wears a white pocket square.

This is good advice. And yes, while I don’t personally care for pocket squares usually, Biden always looks sharp with one.

For the OP - a great way to get inspiration from how someone like Biden dresses is to browse a site like Getty images or just google images. If you search Joe Biden on Getty images you’ll get thousands of high resolution photos of him at various events. You’ll get a feel for how his ties look with his navy suits and what you do and don’t like.

 

[joegeis]

thanks both - I like this solution: keep it simple with a white linen pocket square I already have (or no pocket square), and add some subtle color/personality with a tie, which also gives me an excuse to add another to my tie collection.

 

[joegeis]

I ended up ordering the S&M suit and a Charles Tyrwhitt Burgundy Grenadine tie. I think I'm going to skip the cuff links and go with one of my tailored S&M shirts with barrel cuffs. Would you recommend white or light blue?

 

[Bankers_Stripes]

I ended up ordering the S&M suit and a Charles Tyrwhitt Burgundy Grenadine tie. I think I'm going to skip the cuff links and go with one of my tailored S&M shirts with barrel cuffs. Would you recommend white or light blue?

Personally, my choice with a burgundy tie would be a white shirt. But that’s just me. I wear white far more than blue, unless it’s white with blue stripes which I wear plenty.

 

[joorinainen]

I ended up ordering the S&M suit and a Charles Tyrwhitt Burgundy Grenadine tie. I think I'm going to skip the cuff links and go with one of my tailored S&M shirts with barrel cuffs. Would you recommend white or light blue?

White no questions asked