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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 272

post #4066 of 5377
Yes, everything is too big. 36S is already pretty rare, but maybe you are closer to a 34SS, which I don't think you can find OTR. I think it might be possible to find a 36S that is a slimmer fit if you try other brands, but MTM might be a better option for you. Did you have a specific budget in mind?
post #4067 of 5377
Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothmoose View Post

Yes, everything is too big. 36S is already pretty rare, but maybe you are closer to a 34SS, which I don't think you can find OTR. I think it might be possible to find a 36S that is a slimmer fit if you try other brands, but MTM might be a better option for you. Did you have a specific budget in mind?


Agree. Everything is too big. You will pay more for aterations than you paid for the suit especially if you want the shoulders altered. They do look too wide.

Keep shopping and possibly look for boys sizes. MTM would be better, but get from a brick and mortar store, not online self-measure. Good luck with your search.
post #4068 of 5377
I somewhat disagree about online MTM. I agree that if you can find an in-person MTM locally that will be ideal. However, given this is your first suit, local MTM will likely run in the $600-$1000+ price range. If that's in your budget then do it.

If not then online MTM is a viable option if you get someone to measure you properly as described in the online videos, or even get a local tailor to measure you (for a fee maybe). Just to let you know my brother is exactly your height and weight. Since I know what I'm doing I measured him up and we ordered his first suit from Indochino and it came out great. I am also your height, but much bulkier at 150lbs due to weight lifting and I order from Indochino as well.

The toughest part to measure will probably be your shoulders and sleeve lengths. Since you probably only have OTR shirts measuring your shoulder point-to-point will probably not be accurate as those shirts are probably too big for you. My guess is since even a 36S is too large, your shoulder measurement will probably be 16-16.5", but that's still a guess.

Maybe the tailors here can shed some light on how to measure your shoulders if you do not have a good fitting shirt or jacket to measure from.
post #4069 of 5377

I went to post a new thread, but realized it would be better suited (no pun intended!) here.

 

This is my first suit which I got at JC Penney. It is a super slim suit 36R. I think it looks pretty good, but I am concerned about the "X" bunching around the button. I tried a 38R which alleviated most of the bunching, but the shoulders looked off. What do you guys think? Is this suit jacket too tight? I will try to get better pictures tomorrow. I did not have anyone around to take some pictures unfortunately. Please excuse the tags. I just purchased the suit and decided to take a picture. Also, is the sleeve length too long? I can't seem to get the shirt to show a little cuff under the jacket sleeve.

 

 

 

Thanks for any input! Much appreciated!

post #4070 of 5377

Would very much appreciate some feedback on this light grey suit I got. Sorry about the picture lighting, was taken with an iPhone late at night, so the colors aren´t really representative. The suit is straight out of the box, so please apologize the wrinkles. 

 

Anyways, for easier viewing I put the pictures on the spoiler. Hope that is OK. 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks in advance! 

post #4071 of 5377
Hi all,

Another KW trial suit I'm afraid...

There are some obvious length issues that I'm already on top of and whilst the shoulder width is good, the rest of the coat is too large around the chest/waist. The biggest issue is, obviously, the back as caused by my forward sloping shoulders and prominent shoulder blades.

KW suggests the following:

Lower each shoulder 1cm
Lower buttoning point 1.5cm
Reduce bicep 1cm
Shoulder pitch backward 0.5cm
Raise armhole 1cm
Reduce chest 1cm each in the back and the front
Reduce waist 1.5cm
Lengthen coat 2.5cm
Lengthen sleeves 3cm (leaving these unfinished, going to get my tailor to get the length exact)

Does anyone have any other suggestions? I'm concerned that the coat felt very large in the body and these reductions won't be quite enough. Thoughts? Also, I wonder if lowering each shoulder 1cm will do enough to clean up the back?

I've also included one of those clumsy MS paint images comparing it to a jacket that fits well.

Any thoughts to pass on the KW would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!










post #4072 of 5377
Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothmoose View Post

Yes, everything is too big. 36S is already pretty rare, but maybe you are closer to a 34SS, which I don't think you can find OTR. I think it might be possible to find a 36S that is a slimmer fit if you try other brands, but MTM might be a better option for you. Did you have a specific budget in mind?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Millerp View Post


Agree. Everything is too big. You will pay more for aterations than you paid for the suit especially if you want the shoulders altered. They do look too wide.

Keep shopping and possibly look for boys sizes. MTM would be better, but get from a brick and mortar store, not online self-measure. Good luck with your search.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothmoose View Post

I somewhat disagree about online MTM. I agree that if you can find an in-person MTM locally that will be ideal. However, given this is your first suit, local MTM will likely run in the $600-$1000+ price range. If that's in your budget then do it.

If not then online MTM is a viable option if you get someone to measure you properly as described in the online videos, or even get a local tailor to measure you (for a fee maybe). Just to let you know my brother is exactly your height and weight. Since I know what I'm doing I measured him up and we ordered his first suit from Indochino and it came out great. I am also your height, but much bulkier at 150lbs due to weight lifting and I order from Indochino as well.

The toughest part to measure will probably be your shoulders and sleeve lengths. Since you probably only have OTR shirts measuring your shoulder point-to-point will probably not be accurate as those shirts are probably too big for you. My guess is since even a 36S is too large, your shoulder measurement will probably be 16-16.5", but that's still a guess.

Maybe the tailors here can shed some light on how to measure your shoulders if you do not have a good fitting shirt or jacket to measure from.

 

Thanks for the advice.  Initially, before I bought the Bar III extra slim suit, I was thinking about online MTM through Black Lapel, and leaning toward their solid charcoal suit for $450.  I will wear the suit for rare occasions, so I don't think I would want to spend much more than $500.

 

I've been trying some slim fitting suits at dept stores in size 36S and noticed all of them are too big.  That is why I was considering MTM as I wasn't able to find anything that fit OTR.  I was at Macy's and tried the Bar III slim (not extra slim) suit and thought the shoulders fit better and felt only a little bit wider than my actual shoulders.  The suit also felt more snug than others I've tried.  I went online and saw they had an extra slim in another suit and thought maybe that would fit me better, but I guess that is still too big.  I was thinking I can save some money if it needed minimal alterations instead of doing MTM.

 

So I'm thinking I'll return the Bar III suit and try Black Lapel.  I actually have shirts that fit me a lot better, so hopefully the measurements will be fine.  Also, I am wondering if I should get working cuffs as that will be hard to alter if it is off.  Or would working cuffs be fine if I measured correctly?

 

Thanks again.

post #4073 of 5377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexander Scriabin View Post

Hi all,

Another KW trial suit I'm afraid...

There are some obvious length issues that I'm already on top of and whilst the shoulder width is good, the rest of the coat is too large around the chest/waist. The biggest issue is, obviously, the back as caused by my forward sloping shoulders and prominent shoulder blades.

KW suggests the following:

Lower each shoulder 1cm
Lower buttoning point 1.5cm
Reduce bicep 1cm
Shoulder pitch backward 0.5cm
Raise armhole 1cm
Reduce chest 1cm each in the back and the front
Reduce waist 1.5cm
Lengthen coat 2.5cm
Lengthen sleeves 3cm (leaving these unfinished, going to get my tailor to get the length exact)

Does anyone have any other suggestions? I'm concerned that the coat felt very large in the body and these reductions won't be quite enough. Thoughts? Also, I wonder if lowering each shoulder 1cm will do enough to clean up the back?

I've also included one of those clumsy MS paint images comparing it to a jacket that fits well.

Any thoughts to pass on the KW would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!







 

I'd slope the shoulders more than they recommend. More on the right than the left. I would say the coat should be adjusted for head forward posture tho it's hard to tell without a direct side profile.

Yes, the rest of the jacket needs to be cleaned up but it's too hard to specify how much or little with the way KW does their measurements. Most important is sloping those shoulders, accouting for posture, and lengthening jacket/sleeves some.

post #4074 of 5377
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renault78law View Post


I'll highlight this for my own and perhaps Aravenel's benefit. For my own edification, can you show me how you'd alter a standard pant pattern to make these changes? Others may benefit from the description you gave above for alterations, and I thank you for that. I'd love to see a visual change on a paper pattern if you have the ability, that might help those like myself who are trying to learn more about how changes to patterns affect fit.
As an aside, do you think curving the leg around the calf would have any benefit? I saw this picture from Ambrosi and wondered why more pants don't look like this. Does it actually help the way the trousers fall, i.e., the line of the trousers?

Since there is no silver bullet for what you're asking for, I'll post a picture I created for my MTM provider for a certain specific client. Again, it isn't always cut and dry. Every situation could present a different fix.

 

post #4075 of 5377
This is my first suit. It is from Black Lapel. It's a "slim fit". I think I should have gone with their "tailored fit" instead. I'm not sure what is going on. It just doesn't look right. I think the pants and jacket sleeves are a little long. It looks really strange in the mid section too. Kinda looks feminine? Any help would be great so I can get it adjust or remade.

The custom shirt from Black Lapel is big everywhere in my option also. I opted for the slim fit, and it didn't turn out well either.

I'm 6' and 172lbs.
Average build

Thank you for the help!

Tom






[IMG
post #4076 of 5377
Thanks for the feedback OTCtailor. I agree about sloping the shoulders. Roughly how much would you specify? 2cm for the right and 1.5cm for the left? More? And yes, I generally am a little head forward but I'm not sure KW has an easy default measurement to deal with that. Any thoughts?

Do you think their length measurements are sufficient?



post #4077 of 5377

Hey everyone, 

I'm buying this suit and was wondering what alterations you could suggest I do.  I know a little bit about suits but very little about tailoring. 

The pants are fine all they need is a hem and maybe an inch tapering  

But the jacket is a bit harder for me to tell, here are some pics

 

 

 

 

 

 

The look I am going for is a well tailored slim look but not so much that I look like Russell Brand


Thanks in advance!

post #4078 of 5377

Hi guys, just gone in for fitting for new sport coat, this is slim it and shorter than usual, what do you think of fit?

 

 

post #4079 of 5377
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post
 

Since there is no silver bullet for what you're asking for, I'll post a picture I created for my MTM provider for a certain specific client. Again, it isn't always cut and dry. Every situation could present a different fix.

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Is this a fix for someone that needs more space at the seat?

post #4080 of 5377
Quote:
Originally Posted by crunchyeggroll View Post

So I'm thinking I'll return the Bar III suit and try Black Lapel.  I actually have shirts that fit me a lot better, so hopefully the measurements will be fine.  Also, I am wondering if I should get working cuffs as that will be hard to alter if it is off.  Or would working cuffs be fine if I measured correctly?
I haven't tried Black Lapel, but they seem to have a pretty good rep and I believe if you are in the NYC area, you can get measured in person, by one of their tailors or senior staff. Definitely do NOT get working cuffs on your first suit. If you really want them, get the suit with unfinished sleeves and pay the extra $50-$80 to get working cuffs finished locally. I think for Indochino, you ask for unfinished uncuffs and use your $75 alteration credit to get them finished. Maybe Black Lapel has the same thing.

BTW, as a reference point, what is the shoulder measurement of the Macy's suit you have right now? Again this is one of the most important measurements to get right.
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