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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. newsuitguy

    newsuitguy New Member

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    Jan 29, 2013
    Some feedback welcome on this suit.

    Thinking I'll go a bit bigger around the knees (.25 to .5). That's the only thing that feels off to me though I'm sure expert eyes would see more.

    The rest fits comfortably enough so I'm reasonably happy.

    Back of suit hopelessly rumpled.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  2. hipslap

    hipslap Member

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    Jan 24, 2013
    I am considering it but it is probably outside of my price range, especially with the additional alterations.

    Knowledge is half the battle. If i do decide to go that route, I am in a position to better communicate my concerns with the tailor, thanks to You and Despos. Hopefully, it will translate to a good fit!
     
  3. n1tsuj

    n1tsuj Member

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    Jan 30, 2013
    Just got a MTM suit

    Do you folks think it needs any alterations?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    opinions would be most appreciated thanks. :happy:
     
  4. ethanm

    ethanm Well-Known Member

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    I have a double vented jacket where the back kinda tents up at the bottom just to the left of the seam. If you looked at it from the ground it is shaped like this /\. I have tried pressing it on both sides to no avail, is there any way to fix this or am I just bad at pressing?
     
  5. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Probably caused by a large shoulder blade that pulls the back up on one side. Pressing will have no effect if this is the cause. Can only guess without a picture.
     
  6. ethanm

    ethanm Well-Known Member

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    I will try and take some pictures. It happens when it is on a hanger and if you threw it in a pile it would naturally fold this way if that makes a difference.
     
  7. ethanm

    ethanm Well-Known Member

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    It doesn't look as egregious when it's worn but it is really starting to bother me. I have another jacket from the same maker in the same cut that does not have this problem. The only difference I can tell is that the center seam is busted in the other jacket but not so in this one. The seam is lapped? and pressed towards the side that tents.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2013
  8. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    There are a lot of problems with this jacket. Most of them not correctable. The thing that struck me immediately was how high the button stance was. Then I saw how short the jacket was.
    The fact is, this jacket is absolutely the wrong size for you. The extreme issue with length proportions in this jacket is what's causing most of your problems. The waist area of this jacket is almost where your lower chest is. There isn't enough total width there in the chest which is why those lapels are bowing. The other major problem is that the shoulder width is too narrow. You can't miss it in the back. I can't tell if it's just too small for you or if it was taken in and now there's not enough back width to fit over your blades. The jacket is probably 3 inches too short. Did you buy it this way or was it altered?
     
  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    I think the shirt looks good. A little tight in the neck? And the sleeve length probably feels too long because the cuffs could and should go a little tighter.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    I don't like center vents because they gape more easily than double vents. When someone is built with a hollow lower back and prominent seat, suppressing the waist from the sides and center seam is a little harder and you have limits. You're trying to get shape in the front of the jacket so you can easily overwork the seams. What I do is adjust the sides lightly and then if the front is still loose, I'll adjust the front darts or even add a dart underneath the arm right behind the existing underarm dart. This new dart sits closer to the front of the jacket and gives you more suppression in the front while leave the back a little more draped over the seat. Best result is on a non-vented jacket, then a double vented jacket, and IMO last is single vented..
     
  11. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    You have a very erect back posture making these jackets too long in the back balance. The whole back needs to be shortened. It's worse on the darker suit. Also, there's still quite a bit of tightness at the midsection in the back transitioning into the chest area. Obvious on both but worse on the lighter suit. I imagine they let them out as far as they could go and both are off the rack with very little allowance to let out. Your shoulder is low either by nature of you being left handed? Or it's camera angle creating the impression of a low shoulder. Not sure which.
    Your best bet here is to "work on that" midsection area as you said and have the jackets altered for super erect back posture. It's a fairly significant fix. not worth it until you lose weight, tho, IMO.
     
  12. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    Did you steam the jacket? Maybe the seam is blown. It very well may not be pressed correctly. The other possibility is that it was taken in at the CB along with sideseam suppression more in the waist region than in the seat. This shortens the area slightly where it was taken in more and can cause the vent to kick out in the back. I've done this by mistake in my own jackets. WIth a prominent seat (don't know if you deal with this), I'm usually suppressing the forepart of the jacket more than the back. Have to take in the back parts of the jacket very carefully or they'll appear overworked and misshapen. If you deal with that, there are multiple ways to suppress a jacket from the front. There's a second tailors' tutorial thread that talks about this.
     
  13. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    When I say the fronts are too short, it's a matter that has to do with the balance of the jacket, not so much its actual length. When you look at the flaps in the front from the button point downward you see that they are starting to shift on the button as a fulcrum like a pair of scissors. It's good that you're wearing casually because there really isn't much you can do to fix it. It's also that way from being too tight in the chest. If you suppress the waist, it could make it a little worse if not done right. Fixing the shape in the back of the jacket will really help.
     
  14. ethanm

    ethanm Well-Known Member

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    I have had this jacket taken in just under the arms and let out in the back due to my big butt though I can't remember how she did it. She made marks just above the vents. I am not sure but I believe the problem was present before all of that though, should I just have it professionally pressed?
     
  15. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    The back balance looks a little long from you having erect posture. Not that bad, though. The vertical wrinkles in the back of the jacket can be removed. The whole front of the suit looks like it needs a little more width from the chest down to the bottom. The lapels are gaping and so is the area below the closure. The back of the pants can be fixed by shortening the back rise. Maybe taking in the waist and seat a little..? The crotch is a little droopy. They're also too long. Way too long. The knees don't look tight but that is a matter of comfort. It might help when the back rise is fixed.
     
  16. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

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    It looks a little tight across the upper back, but loose in the blades. The back balance a little long. Shortening may help the gaping vent. THe sleeves could be slimmed a little at the back seam. Maybe the seat is loose or the back rise is a little long. The pants are a little long IMO.
    The girl looks proud to be at your side [​IMG]
     
  17. tubby34

    tubby34 Well-Known Member

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    Miami, FL
    
    That erect posture may be from my fiancé telling me to stand up straight. I can retake the photos but I'm not happy with the alteration work that was done. Not nessisadily what but how she did it and its quality. I looked at the suit jacket sleeve and it wasn't sewn properly so it opened up. I also believe on the blue one it has more fabric on the back right shoulder than the left (I'm a righty by the way).

    Thanks for your help. When I said there would be a better me in 2013 I guess I meant it. Time to lose weight and actually wear a suit for once.

    Thanks OTC!
     
  18. ICrane

    ICrane New Member

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  19. Ziminskas

    Ziminskas Member

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    Jan 20, 2012
    Hi, thank you for your response. The jacket has been altered, but the button stance and length are original. However, I believe that the suit is supposed to be this length, and the buttons are supposed to be there. The suit is the same as the one worn by Ryan Gosling in Crazy Stupid Love, and in the movie, the button and length of his jacket are identical to mine (or at least as far as I can tell). I could be wrong, but I believe that the jacket is supposed to have narrow shoulders, high buttons, and short length. I assume this because the jacket that Gosling wore in the movie was made specifically for him based on that style. Please let me know what you think. Thank you very much.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Also, here are some pictures of the suit on a model. I assume that this is how the suit is intended to look, as these picutures were for promotion.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. cptjeff

    cptjeff Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, that's a problem. To properly evaluate how stuff fits, you need to be standing how you actually stand, not how you maybe should stand.
     

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