Quote:
Originally Posted by
apropos 
Instead of paying attention to ridiculous superficial things like shoeboxes and sole polishing(!), here is a laundry list of iGent/DFWII questions that no one seems to be asking:- gemmed or not?- full leather sockliner?- leather tanning - chromium or vegetable?- upper leather source?- only full grain leather?- bark tanned soles?- synthetic or leather toe puff?- any fibreboard or reconstituted leather product in the shoe? - heels are 100% leather with the rubber insert?- lasted trees?- sizing comparison to 'established' so-called SF-approved lasts? e.g. JL 7000/8000, EG 82/202, Vass U/F/P2, C&J 337/348, Church 173, etc(next isn't really quite an iGent question)- finally, if this is a factory-made shoe in a 3rd world country (with 3rd world wages), what features actually recommend it
over the smorgasbord of midrange factory-made UK shoes where I
know people are paid a living wage? A fiddleback sole and nice sole treatment does not a 'top tier' shoe make. Things like handwelting, top notch materials, and care in make do.
These are very good questions. I wanted to insure accuracy in my answers so I was waiting for the owner of the company to get back to me on the more technical questions (he just returned from a trade show). Please find his responses as well as my comments below:
- gemmed or not?
Their is a canvas rib under the surface of the insole
- full leather sockliner?
Yes
- leather tanning - chromium or vegetable?
Vegetable Tanned
- upper leather source?
French, Italian, or German tanneries. To answer an earlier question, if / when we go with shell cordovan, it will definitely be sourced from Chicago.
- only full grain leather? Suede and nu-buck are available as well. Also, exotics may be an option in the future
- bark tanned soles?
Soles are chestnut-tanned
- synthetic or leather toe puff?
Synthetic toe puff
- any fibreboard or reconstituted leather product in the shoe?
No
- heels are 100% leather with the rubber insert?
Yes
- lasted trees?
A strong possibility for the future
- sizing comparison to 'established' so-called SF-approved lasts? e.g.
JL 7000/8000, EG 82/202, Vass U/F/P2, C&J 337/348, Church 173, etc -
We are trying to develop a sizing chart for reference but for now, please consult us with individual comparisons so that we can set you up with the size we feel appropriate for your feet. Again, please see our return policy which involves a risk free trial.
- finally, if this is a factory-made shoe in a 3rd world country (with 3rd world wages), what features actually recommend it over the smorgasbord of midrange factory-made UK shoes where I know people are paid a living wage? A fiddleback sole and nice sole treatment does not a 'top tier' shoe make. Things like handwelting, top notch
materials, and care in make do.
A fiddleback sole does not make a top-tier shoe, correct. However, it is one skill that takes a great amount of skill to be done correctly and not something found in a mid-tier shoe. A top-tier shoe is a culmination of various attributes, materials, and skilled labor. You will find that the materials and construction of D.C. Lewis dictate a top-tier shoe.In response to Fstyles, we have chosen this manufacturer over some others because:
1. The quality and attention to detail
2. The value
3. The lasts
4. The ability to develop and customize to our specifications. This entails developing a wide variety of styles without sticking to one genre such as the long-established traditions found in England or Italy. We are discerning enthusiasts with the opportunity to have our standards implemented in a wide range, with the upmost attention, quality, and devotion from the manufacturer.