Tom Mahon: An Englishcut in New York

I had the pleasure last night of attending Thomas Mahon's gathering in the back room of Ten Bells in Manhattan. Approximately 15 attendees paid $150 each for a chance to win a bespoke suit, with all proceeds going to City Harvest.

Good odds, but at $150 a pop, I'm afraid I'm no gambler, and so I dropped by just in time to see the lucky winner drawn from a hat. Tom immediately started measuring him up, recruiting me to fill out the chart. He then moved to the table where he proceeded to draft the trouser and coat paper pattern itself, narrating the entire process and fielding questions as he went.

Although he used the winner's actual measurements, the pattern (pleated trousers, 2 button, SB w/ hacking pockets and ticket pocket) was clearly for demonstration purposes only, as there was no discussion of what cut the winner preferred (not that he seemed bothered!).

The coat in particular was fascinating to watch take shape. As he chalked it up (largely rock-of-eye), Tom discussed everything from drape, pull (he pointedly favors it--yes!), darts, armscyes, eased shoulder seams, skirt flare, lapel belly, open quarters, and the oft-misunderstood issue of balance.

The highlight of the evening for me was when he asked for a volunteer to cut out the pattern. After what I promise was a polite pause, I again volunteered. Giving his famous heavy shears a diligent pass though my hair (yay!), I proceeded to not entirely embarrass myself. I don't think I'd cut out shapes from paper since I was using safety scissors, and by comparison, these were like wielding a double-bladed sword!

Afterwards, Tom autographed the coat pattern for me, which along with the chalk he drew it with, will be framed in my comfortably small-time living room.

Tom's tailor Paul was also there, although I didn't get a chance to talk with him.

All told it was an absolutely amazing experience. Tom was every bit the gentleman and generous host, and I really appreciate his willingness to spend time entertaining and educating folks like myself who, although we might never be able to justify the cost of such fine bespoke, nevertheless admire and respect both the art and the artisan.

Some pics:

Sounds like a great time and experience. Waiting to hear from the internet tailoring experts how something in the Mahon/pattern pics is off or incorrect.

I should point out that Tom had chalked up that collar dart as an example of what some OTHER tailors do.

In his discussion of balance, he made the very interesting observation that so much of today's RTW fits poorly around the collar because it's often still being made on old patterns drafted back when people's posture and bearing was better.

the patterns are all off.

that's not even Mr. Mahon himself but some look-alike.

Fooled all you blowhards!

Originally Posted by lee_44106

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the patterns are all off.

that's not even Mr. Mahon himself but some look-alike.

Fooled all you blowhards!

and his collar is not sticking to his neck in the first pic, what a clown!

Originally Posted by edmorel

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Sounds like a great time and experience. Waiting to hear from the internet tailoring experts how something in the Mahon/pattern pics is off or incorrect.
DIVOTS

Originally Posted by edmorel

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and his collar is not sticking to his neck in the first pic, what a clown!

Speaking of Tom's coat, I asked him about what looked to me like its very Huntsman-y quarters (which swept away rather diagonally from the button point) and he said it was a new design he'd had made (he doesn't do his own stuff) and was still kicking the tires. I personally preferred the more graceful sweep of the quarters he drafted on the pattern.

Originally Posted by TRINI

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DIVOTS

Ha. I wish I'd gotten a better shot of Tom's suit. It was very nice, but I'm sure he'd be the first to admit that, despite being made of soft, flexible cloth, it sometimes cannot quite accommodate the movements of the human body without some slight compromise of WAYWN-worthy mannequin fit.

Originally Posted by Montauk

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...In his discussion of balance, he made the very interesting observation that so much of today's RTW fits poorly around the collar because it's often still being made on old patterns drafted back when people's posture and bearing was better.
That is very interesting. Would you mind sharing his thoughts on lapel belly? It's something I've been wondering about recently. I often like a little belly, but a couple guys whose style I admire recently insisted that it should be reserved for DBs. Did Mahon like a little for SBs too?

Thanks for posting this.

He definitely put a bit of belly on the lapel, extending outward from the veritical of the button line. Not much, but he clearly regarded it as the default.

Originally Posted by Montauk

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In his discussion of balance, he made the very interesting observation that so much of today's RTW fits poorly around the collar because it's often still being made on old patterns drafted back when people's posture and bearing was better.

Mr. Mahon should refrain from commenting on things about which he clearly has no knowledge.

Thanks for sharing this with us.

-LR

Originally Posted by jefferyd

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Mr. Mahon should refrain from commenting on things about which he clearly has no knowledge.
Mmmm.....

Originally Posted by jefferyd

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Mr. Mahon should refrain from commenting on things about which he clearly has no knowledge.

Could you elaborate? And wouldn't you allow that your caliber of RTW is significantly higher than the bales of Super 100s flying off the racks at Mens' Wearhouse that he was probably referring to?

In any case, Mahon wasn't just categorically slagging off RTW. On his own website he cites Marks & Spencer (!) suits as decent options in their price range. He may, admittedly have been passing down a hoary anecdote of questionable veracity. I gather that the bespoke world has a lot of that going around...