The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

[bengal-stripe]

@ fishball - The last looks very good indeed and is very nicely proportioned (I presume the last is for you).

Where did the last come from? Did you carve it yourself from a lump of wood (or at least a 'blanc'). Did you get a professional lastmaker to make one for you, or did you adjust a commercial last (maybe even one from ebay) to your requirements?

Inquisitive minds, well, actually Nosy Parkers want to know!

 

[TehBunny]

Wow beautiful Fishball; one of my all time sartorial dreams has been to make a pai of shoes for myself though mine would never turn out that good

 

[Fishball]

Yes, my last was bespoken from JV China.
I made little adjustment after 1st pair.
I hope to try crafting a pair of last but didn't have the blank last.

 

[add911_11]

I am extremely impressed Fishball, that is a pair of extremely nice shoes.

 

[mrjester]

I'm seeing a few people making their own shoes. How do you get started in such a thing? How do you go about getting the training and the materials?

 

[chogall]

Yes, my last was bespoken from JV China.
I made little adjustment after 1st pair.
I hope to try crafting a pair of last but didn't have the blank last.

Was that a modification of the existing last they have or a new last development from some CAD files? How about the 3 piece trees

Thank you very much, DW.
The upper isn't sewn by me, and it took me almost eight months to finish it.
It look nice in a distance, but when it come close, you will see a lot of "mistake"

Very impressive shoes. Did you do the pattern making and have someone click and close it for you? And you do all the lasting and finishing?

Do you mind to share the details of the shoe and the 'mistakes' so we can observe what's considered mistake by shoemakers?

 

[chogall]

I'm seeing a few people making their own shoes. How do you get started in such a thing? How do you go about getting the training and the materials?

Carreducker (of UK) runs bespoke shoes workshop in the US
Marcell Mrsan of Koronya runs bespoke shoes workshop in the US.
DWFII is the resident bootmaking expert on SF and Crispins Colloquy.
Paul Krause shoes up on leatherworker.net's shoemaking sub-forum.

They should get you started on some of the good stuff. There's also Chicago school of Shoemaking (of unknown quality/skill).

Or, if you are devoted to go into shoemaking, travel to England or Europe, learn the craft and open your own shop like the dozens of new Japanese shoemakers. Better yet, mitteleuropa countries for a masters degree to learn the depth and knowledge and UK/Paris to learn the craft.

Shoemakers/bootmakers in the US take apprenticeship or offer classes as well. DWFII (OR) or Lisa Sorrel (OH) should be your top choice in bootmaking. On the more established side, there's E Vogel and Perry Ercolino. On the less well known side, there's Jon Gray (Canada), Paul Krause (AZ), Craig Corvin (Seattle, WA).

According to my uneducated knowledge, it takes at least a few dozen shoes made to be somewhat competent. It's an art that has to be learned and practiced.

 

[ThinkDerm]



Gentlemen. Having a new pair of Norwegians made at JLSJ. The pattern has been drawn on my last shown below. Looking for some input from those with experience with the leathers. The bunch on the left are pigskin, the right top, french grain, and right bottom, english grain.
Interestingly, some of the pigskins are much more supple than those that I have from Cleverley. The softer ones are called "Number 1" while the harder ones that are more similar to Cleverley's, "Number 2". Not sure if this refers to thickness, but "Number 1" skins are definitely softer.
Anyone know how this "Number 1" pigskin wears? Is it a PITA to care for? Similarly, does anyone have experience with the French grain? It has a really fantastic texture that is more refined than other pebble grained leathers. Opinions on which would work best for the shoe?
TIA

French calf

 

[Fishball]



Was that a modification of the existing last they have or a new last development from some CAD files? How about the 3 piece trees

hmm.. I have my HK bespoke last copy by them, then ask them keep the back part measurements and make the toe part after the picture I send to them ( but I did give them my footprint and measurements, so I don't really know how they make it) Then JV send me the last and I ask them to adjust the toe shape a little bit.

The shoe tree was made at Japan. I send the JV last to them and they turn me a pair of new wooden last and a pair of shoe tree. It was done with help of a Japanese shoemaker.

Very impressive shoes. Did you do the pattern making and have someone click and close it for you? And you do all the lasting and finishing?

I make the mean forme, then the "sifu" make a mock up, and then I adjust the design.

Do you mind to share the details of the shoe and the 'mistakes' so we can observe what's considered mistake by shoemakers?

Sorry, too many! anything you can think of.
But if the shoe have good last shape and shine, it can fool a lot of people in a distance!

 

[Hampton]

 

[Harrydog]



Boots from Vickermann & Stoya

Cordovan and Bordeaux Suede

Nice boots but some alarming creasing within the toe cap of the left boot. That is not good!

 

[Fishball]

It is very diffcult to make a good shine on the sole.

DW, I know, you hate the JR stamp

 

[VRaivio]

Fishball, well done! It's quite a rare thing to see shoes of this caliber from self-taught men.

 

[DWFII]



It is very diffcult to make a good shine on the sole.

DW, I know, you hate the JR stamp

I don't hate it...it's just that as a maker, you lose something of yourself when you let someone else brand your work. AND, control the finish/quality/workmanship that you can bring to the final result.

 

[bboysdontcryy]

Thinking of bespeaking a pair of shoes.

I have a few styles (toe-box will be chiseled) I'm keen on. Will toss them up here for some feedback. If anybody has any preference, I'm open to suggestions.

Style 1

Style 2

Style 3

Style 4