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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - Page 1223

post #18331 of 47129
Quote:
Originally Posted by swetooth9 View Post

would the bourbon colored Strands go well with a navy suit (for work)?  I tried on the walnut Strands today at Nordstrom, and they may be to light/bright for business attire.  I've only seen pictures online of the bourbon colored Strands, but they look a little more work appropriate (business formal attire).  I know black shoes are the most formal, but I was looking for a brown pair that would work well.

Thanks!

Works really well actually- one of my favorite combinations.
post #18332 of 47129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyswatter View Post
It seems my post went unnoticed amidst the haze of the unnecessary stir-up created by foo. baldy[1].gifAny more thoughts on the gaping issue, particularly in regard to Park vs Fifth Ave and brown vs black calf? Comments on the formality of the perf cap Fifth vs the Park Ave, and the interchangeability of the two?

I personally think a brown 5th Ave. and black PA are a great combination to have in the stable.

 

Concerning bowing if the 5th Ave. works for you then the black calf PA should also. I have had some people PM me that they tried every shoe on the 5 last on in an AE store and they all gaped but that is rare, if one fits you then they all should. NewShoes1 and I both can look at some shoes out of the box and tell you that are going to bow. I've had 2 pair of MTO shell Bradley's on the #1 last bow and a pair of Cliftons in brown on the 8 last bow. It isn't just material or last that causes it. When I returned my first pair of Bradley's I had never dealt with AE CS and wanted my ducks in a row so measured the throat opening of several of my 1 lasted shoes and did a comparison to the Bradley's. 

Measure throat opening (Click to show)

 

 

1000

 

 

The Bradley's measured 3.1" but some other #1 lasted shoes in the same size measured:

Leeds shell……….2.4”

Leeds calf……...…2.4”
Shelton……………2.4”  
Wilbert brown….…2.4”
Wilbert black...…..2.4”
 
Turns out all that work was not needed as QA called me after getting them and said they were defective and made me another pair. And one shoe of the replacement pair bowed so back they went. A regular poster on here that is very sharp sent me a picture last week of a pair of new shoes he got in and used a ruler to show the same thing. He said guess they are going back which is the right attitude IMO, it isn't a big deal as long as you can return them. And if it bothers you, some people it doesn't but that flaring seems to catch my eye and bothers me so I will not accept them. 
 
The CEO of AE responded to my posting and another gentleman on AAAC about the bowing. A few people there had said that bowing (cursed bowing one called it) has been happening for a long time so don't think the DR leather assembly is causing it. And think the MTO shell are done here in the US. 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cold Iron View Post
 The CEO (Paul) of AE was gracious enough to respond inline on a thread where I posted about it on AAAC. There is still a manufacturing issue which is not addressed however. 

====================================================

 

AE CEO Explains bowing on AAAC (Click to show)

 

 

Greetings -
 
Sorry, I've been on-the-road a great deal lately and have fallen behind on correspondence. I meant to reply to this thread a couple weeks ago but it slipped through the cracks.
 
Bulging toplines like in the picture could be caused by two things -- 1) not enough time on the last in production so that the toplines don't take the form as well as they should, or 2) too much time in the box on a shelf or, after purchase, in the closet without shoe trees in the shoes. As you probably know, we put a "heel counter" between the lining and the external calfskin of our dress shoes to protect the shape of the heel. We also put what's called a box-toe in front to keep the toe firm and to hold the shape. 
 
There isn't anything stiff on the sides of the shoes, however, for comfort reasons, so the only thing to hold the shape around the ankle over the long term is the cord-like binding that we sew around the topline. We extended the time we leave shoes on the last 3 years ago, just for this very issue. However, if the shoes get jossled around in transport and then sit awkwardly for months on a shelf in inventory, the shape can get compromised. As you wear them, the shoes also take the shape of your foot and walking, by nature, makes the toplines bulge out as the foot flexes. If the shoes are not a great fit, the bulging as you walk can be exacerbated. Shoe-trees and a couple of days rest in a shoe rotation, can help return the toplines to the tightened look.
 
Toplines do get tightened somewhat in the Recrafting process. Putting good shoe trees in the shoes and leaving them there is an at-home step that should help. Polishing the shoes with the shoe trees inside and then leaving them to "settle" could be enhance the rebound.
 
Some of the shoes bought in outlets stores or on e-Bay preceed me in this job. As I've mentioned in other posts, we take quality assurance extremely seriously at AE and have done a number of things over the past 3 years to take it to a higher level, including extending the time that shoes stay on the last in production. The results are evident in our quality control scores internally, and at our most demanding major wholesale customer, Nordstrom. Our scores in the Nordstrom Quality Center are the best they've ever been now and are at levels that they say are unheard of for shoes. We're proud of that, but we remain relentless in our pursuit of perfection.
 
Thanks for your interest and thanks for your support of Allen Edmonds!
 
Best wishes,
Paul

 

 

I'd keep trying those black PA until you get a pair that works for you, and they should work for you.

post #18333 of 47129
Brown Delray today.

post #18334 of 47129
IGNORE. Double post.
post #18335 of 47129
Quote:
Originally Posted by swetooth9 View Post

would the bourbon colored Strands go well with a navy suit (for work)?  I tried on the walnut Strands today at Nordstrom, and they may be to light/bright for business attire.  I've only seen pictures online of the bourbon colored Strands, but they look a little more work appropriate (business formal attire).  I know black shoes are the most formal, but I was looking for a brown pair that would work well.

 

Thanks!

 

I have both, and i wear both with navy pants and they look great.  there are some navy's out there that are very very close to black, almost, and for those i would go with bourbon.  the walnut strand is perfectly fine for business attire, however if you are buying these strictly with the color navy in mind, bourbon would be your better choice.

 

walnut looks best with lighter navy and light gray

post #18336 of 47129

Question folks... I have a useless jar of the AE Dark Brown cordovan cream.  The reason I say useless is because it is much darker than what my shell strands should be.

 

Is this ok to use on calf skin?  If not, whoever wants it....

post #18337 of 47129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cold Iron View Post

Well I tried to reply late last night and lost everything at the end, so just going to break it up for now.

I only have one shoe a chukka on the Barrie and there are others on this thread that have a lot more experience with it than I. But I went down a half size from my normal TTS in AE. I am a 10D on the #1 and #5 last and a 9.5D in the Alden Chukka on the Barrie fits similar to my Dundee's on the #1 last. The Barrie is wide in the heel and I have a fair amount of heel slip but it is acceptable. Some of the more experienced people say the preferred sizing on the Barrie is to actually go down a width ie: from a D to a C but stay TTS. But there aren't a lot of Alden offerings in C width. Also this all applies to shoes and chukkas with boots they are tighter in the front because of how they are lasted and staying TTS is better for most people. There is a reason people on the Alden thread say they have a fear of lasts. 

I do not have a 7 last yet but the MacNeil is one of the last shoes I want to pick up so will know eventually how that fits in comparison. I feel the 5 last fits me best of all the AE lasts so far, and the 8 (Clifton) does not fit me at all no matter what combination I try.

Thanks for the review, will definitely take all of that into consideration if I end up getting a barrie lasted shoe.
post #18338 of 47129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hermitedge View Post




I've had these forever, but recently started wearing them on the reg. Can I get some maintenance help. I own venetian shoe cream, but I probably need to get the AE walnut polish as well, right? Anytime I do conditioning, am I supposed to remove the polish on top the shoes came coated with? Then use Venetian, let dry, then polish and buff?

 

Nice shoes!  I have the same pair, and treat them as my "beater" shoes.  In other words, if I'm going to do something dusty / wet... during the day, but I need dress shoes, those are the shoes I wear.  The great thing about the scotch grain leather and the double soles make these shoes very resilient.  You can do almost anything to them and they'll look great with a brushing and quick moisturizing.  I don't actually polish them, just moisturize periodically (1-2x per year).  

 

Lots of action on the forum lately - great to see some new names and contributors!  Thanks for the excellent write-up on the top-line bowing, Cold Iron!

post #18339 of 47129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cold Iron View Post

I did use Renomat on my oldest pair of shell Leeds for the exact same reason you describe. And need to thank you for introducing me to Renomat over a year ago, and also for mentioning microfiber cloths for final polishing somewhere else recently. I've used nylon stockings for the final buff for years but know by now if you say something it is worth paying attention to. Don't see myself ever going to back to stockings, thank you.

I also found the microfiber cloths are the best way to strip the cream off the shell. I use them as rags around the house, I buy the Amazon Basics 48 for $28 or so which is about .50 cents apiece. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
The other day I thought about how much they absorb and used one instead of an old cotton T-shirt. 


This was with Renoaveutor and my black shell PA but think you would get pretty good results on yours with Renomat. On my Leeds it did lift quite a bit but not as much as new shoes. The T-shirt on the right was used first and thought they were pretty clean. I followed up with the Microfiber cloth after and it actually picked up more on the second pass then the T-shirt did on the first one.

I push hard when removing old finish just like the start of a mirror shine starting with Renomat doing a small section at a time. Then move my finger to a clean part of the rag wetting it and doing another section. As soon as the shoe is done repeated the whole process with Renoaveutor. As soon as that is done then I take a fairly wet rag and wipe the whole thing down which picks up quite a bit more:


I repeated the process twice, if you use the microfiber cloth not sure you would need to do it twice. Good luck and hope it helps.

Cold Iron, thanks for this recap! I thought you had said this before, but I then I also thought that you'd recommended using only 'vateur, so I was confused. This clears it up.

I've been working on my 744s with 'vateur, and it's not enough to do the job. I'm going to order some 'Mat from Kirby. Already ordered the Amazon microfiber towels!

I wonder if Saphir ever thought that people would shorten both products' names to "Reno" which can cause some confusion! biggrin.gif
post #18340 of 47129
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjr4884 View Post

Question folks... I have a useless jar of the AE Dark Brown cordovan cream.  The reason I say useless is because it is much darker than what my shell strands should be.

 

Is this ok to use on calf skin?  If not, whoever wants it....

 

I noticed that as well... My Patriot shell in brown are a much lighter brown than the cream.

post #18341 of 47129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Lucas View Post

Here they are!  What nobody seems to talk about is the grey is actually a clouded grey.  That really put me off of them, to be honest.  Up close they look like a complete mess.  They are a knock-out from about 3 feet away though.  Also, I can't figure out if it's a defect, but the Dalton is not a symmetrical design.  Everything is off-set a bit from center.

 

I apologize for the quality, these were taken with my 3DS.  I've taken shots from several angles including one in front of the black AE bag so one could see how not-black they are.

 

The Goods (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

That's a strange clouded colour. I remember another user posting his grey Daltons and the colour was a smooth gun-metal grey without the blotches you see in the second last picture.

post #18342 of 47129

For AE shell, I never had much trouble bringing out a glossy shine by using a bit of Kiwi Neutral, a brush, and an old t-shirt; not that using Renomat isn't advised, just that there's more than one way to skin a cat.

 

I considered buying one of those clearance grey shoes. I would have immediately gone to town on it with blue and black products.

post #18343 of 47129
What edge dressing goes on walnut (calf) daltons and players shoes?

People in this thread were saying to use Chili dressing but...looking at them, I would call it "brown" but its not as dark as some brown non-AE shoes I have.

Is the chili dressing not as red-toned as the chili shoes are?
post #18344 of 47129
Quote:
Originally Posted by otc View Post

What edge dressing goes on walnut (calf) daltons and players shoes?

People in this thread were saying to use Chili dressing but...looking at them, I would call it "brown" but its not as dark as some brown non-AE shoes I have.

Is the chili dressing not as red-toned as the chili shoes are?

The guys at the AE store told me that 'natural' is the one that should be used. However it was out of stock so they recommended I get the 'chili' and made sure not to let it dry and wipe it off right after applying.

 

This was for the walnut Strand though.

post #18345 of 47129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cold Iron View Post

I did use Renomat on my oldest pair of shell Leeds for the exact same reason you describe.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

And need to thank you for introducing me to Renomat over a year ago, and also for mentioning microfiber cloths for final polishing somewhere else recently. I've used nylon stockings for the final buff for years but know by now if you say something it is worth paying attention to. Don't see myself ever going to back to stockings, thank you.

 

I also found the microfiber cloths are the best way to strip the cream off the shell. I use them as rags around the house, I buy the Amazon Basics 48 for $28 or so which is about .50 cents apiece. The other day I thought about how much they absorb and used one instead of an old cotton T-shirt. 

This was with Renoaveutor and my black shell PA but think you would get pretty good results on yours with Renomat. On my Leeds it did lift quite a bit but not as much as new shoes. The T-shirt on the right was used first and thought they were pretty clean. I followed up with the Microfiber cloth after and it actually picked up more on the second pass then the T-shirt did on the first one.

 

I push hard when removing old finish just like the start of a mirror shine starting with Renomat doing a small section at a time. Then move my finger to a clean part of the rag wetting it and doing another section. As soon as the shoe is done repeated the whole process with Renoaveutor. As soon as that is done then I take a fairly wet rag and wipe the whole thing down which picks up quite a bit more:

 

I repeated the process twice, if you use the microfiber cloth not sure you would need to do it twice.

 

 

Good luck and hope it helps.

 

 

Thanks CI, appreciate the help.

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