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RULES for the tall and skinny man - Page 21

post #301 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Da GOAT View Post

Ha I'm 5 in taller and 106 size is perfect.

FYI, to followup re: Suitsupply OTR – nothing OTR fit me. I'm probably closer to a 36L, which they do not carry. Arms too long, so I had to do MTM.
post #302 of 313

This has been very enlightning, taking the time to go through it though I see a lot of you consider yourselves "tall" at 6'1" or 6'2" haha, not that I'm saying you aren't taller than the average man, but you should have no trouble dressing yourself from most stores and I thought this thread was for finding clothing that will fit those of us who have a lot of trouble with buying most things OTR. At 6'7"  195 this is usually a problem for me, I know people have mentioned quite a few stores/websites on here before, but have there been any revelations about stores to shop from since this thread died 3 years ago?

post #303 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by thinman View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I somehow missed this thread the first time around, but I'll post what works for me. For the record, my dimensions are:


6'3" 175 lbs. (due to lifting weights and eating 4 meals a day [or 3 meals plus protein shake]. I'm down from my max of 185 lbs. because I'm not working out enough, but still better than my high school physique, many years ago, when I was 6'3" and 135 lbs.).

15" neck

39" chest

36.5/36.75" sleeves

33" waist

36" inseam


Rather than writing about specific brands, I'll share my general guidelines:


(1) Fit is critical for people with a "custom" physique, so a good alterations tailor is most important. I'm making mine rich, since I now get almost everything I buy OTR tailored, including jeans. Shirts get taken in on the sides, armholes raised, and arms slimmed. Trousers usually get the waist and seat taken in and always get cuffed, unless there's not enough fabric (no cuffing on jeans though). I usually widen trousers below the knee. I don't want clothes clinging to my thin body and accentuating my slender build. 90% of my trousers are flat-front, but I will wear single pleats if they fit my waist and seat (it's really a good look and can add a little heft).


(2) Horizontal details are my friend. This means I wear plaids, checks, horizontal stripes, and extra pockets (ticket pockets on jackets and suits, two chest pockets on shirts), epaulets on shirts, and shirt sleeves rolled up near the elbow. Until very recently I wouldn't wear vertical stripes, but I get away with them on top, since I have very long legs and a striped shirt elongates my torso. Beware plaid or checked suits, though. Most are made with longer vertical than horizontal lines to make the average hefty Joe look taller and thinner...not something I need.


(3) Heavy and/or textured fabrics are good--flannels, linens, cavalry twill, tweeds, corduroy (wide-wale or waffle corduroy, no thin-wale cords) and denim.


(4) Layer whenever possible. Double-breasted jackets are great (I have a charcoal gray, double-breasted peacoat from Sterling that I love) and layering a sweater under a jacket adds visual weight. Cable-knit sweaters add bulk; crew necks minimize vertical lines and/or a long neck (I avoid most v-necks for this reason). I recently started wearing a knit vest and got multiple compliments. Vests are a great way for me to layer since they present no issues with sleeve length (and can add layers in summer, at least in some climates).


(5) Use color to break up vertical lines. I wear contrasting colors on top and bottom, a slightly wider belt than usual to break myself in half visually, and contrasting socks. The rule to match sock and trouser color is designed to elongate the leg line, not something I need, so I break the rule often.


If you can afford it, I recommend finding a good tailor and having a few basic pieces such as a navy blazer and a charcoal gray suit custom made. I have a custom blazer that fits like a dream and I wear it all the time.

To summarize: Know your own body, know the rules of fit, color, and pattern, know when to follow the rules and know when to break them to get the look you want. There are certainly times when I want to celebrate my tall, slender physique and I know how to do that, too (For example, I really enjoy wearing my tuxedo in midnight navy with vertical shadow stripes [double-breasted, with peak lapels]).

These are some of the better general points in this thread aside from the OP, I use all 5 of the points under the spoiler regularly but the most important part IMHO is in the summary, Know your own body! And really this isn't just something that applies to tall skinny folks, it's important to anyone wanting to be well dressed. As anyone can see by looking through this thread even amongst people who all consider themselves "Tall and skinny" there is a large variation in what is considered "Tall and skinny"(people have posted in this thread ranging roughly a foot in height and 100lbs in weight) so hard and fast rules can often be accidentally misleading.

Saying I'm 6'3" and weigh 175lbs says very little as far as fitting rules go, it puts my BMI in the 'normal' range but putting people in pigeon holes gets you nowhere. I could be all legs or all torso, have a giant upper body with tooth pick legs or massive legs with straws for arms etc... What is much more helpful is to identify what parts of you are outside the 'norm'(be honest) and then tailoring your clothes (either by yourself like clapeyron talks about in post 240 or by a seamstress/tailor) to compensate.

ie. My Oddities and what I do to compensate:
Wide shoulders - When buying OTR, shirts and jackets need to be sized up to fit through the shoulders and then taken in through the body, nowadays all shirts and jackets are MTM or bespoke.
Big through the hips and thighs - OTR pants need fuller seat and thighs, legs/waist can be tapered easily afterwards, ideally go custom.
Long Torso - Pants need to have a fuller rise
Long Arms - OTR shirts rarely long enough through the sleeves, go custom
Long Neck - Buy shirts with higher collar/longer points.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebastian_Flyte View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
If you have a long and skinny neck, WEAR SHIRTS WITH COLLARS.

For shorts, wear ones that fall just below the knee if that's an area that doesn't look so hot. NOT fucking capris-- there's some brands that sell shorts like this, or just cut your own pants off there.

T shirt plus an unbuttoned, short-sleeved collared button-down shirt is a solid casual look for "concealing" skinniness-- hides skinny upper arms and chest, and the open shirt gives you more volume in the upper body and arms.
FIT is really the most important thing-- getting clothes that fit properly will mute the effect of overly skinny bodies, and hopefully transform skinny into suavely slender.
post #304 of 313
anyone have any suggestions for OTR suits that could fit me? I'm around 35L. the biggest issue is at that size, the arms/sleeves aren't long enough. so any brands that have a bit of a longer arm OTR?
post #305 of 313

I was head of menswear design for 2 major corporations. Dressing men, color, and fabric are my expertise. My fairly recent boyfriend has presented a version of your dilemma. He is 6'3" 1/2" tall and has a 34 inch waist. His neck is 16, arms (always measured from the center of the back of your neck to your wrist) are 35-36. Weight is not relevant. People vary in bone density creating serious differences. His inseam, crotch to top of the shoe- 34-35.

Jeans for a guy who doesn't care about clothes were first. I found Levi's 511's on line, in slim fit have worked out great. Black, and dark wash for night, some great not overly distressed greys, some hybrids (jean cut,khaki fabric). He is now up to six.

They also have skinnys but that will tend to emphasize his slimness to extreme.

Shirts- Armani AX have a slim tall fit.

CK - is for a smaller chested , smaller shouldered guy ....slim cut. body fit.  steel fit, extreme fit...all have some stretch.

I chose John Varvatos for pants. Made in Italy. Fit perfectly. 34=size 50

 

Almost all designers and brands have size specifications on line and can be googled.

 

If you have shoulders, emphasize them. They will make you appear more buff. One button or 2 button jackets create a nice V when the jacket has strong shoulder design.

Many slim guys still have nice butts....show it off!

Women look at hands, tall slim guys sometimes have long graceful fingers. Keep them up!

 

Tailoring: rule of thumb...them more complicated the seam or seaming and if it has a lining the more you will spend.

single French fell, or double track side seams on shirts you are choosing to be tailored, will cost you more but French fell

is definitely a size of a better shirt as is edge seaming with 18 and up stitches per inch.

 

The advent of spandex or stretch into men's fabrics are  boon. Clothes will not wrinkle as much, give with you, and can be worn  more fitted. Just don't go for the superhero sprayed on look.

 

Have more knowledge on this topic than you can write but will be happy to answer questions.

 

Anyone know of spring weight leather or suede jackets for the tall and slim?

 

Meesh - Men's Clothing Diva

P.S.

horizontal stripes or colorblocking can work well or creating a vintage look

 

post #306 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by mispoke View Post

anyone have any suggestions for OTR suits that could fit me? I'm around 35L. the biggest issue is at that size, the arms/sleeves aren't long enough. so any brands that have a bit of a longer arm OTR?

I favour Jaeger, being 185cm and 70kg. Their regular prices are around 550£ for a suit, but Jaeger's sales discounts are very favourable. The maker's basic cut, Mayfair, is definitely slim when compared to most British businesses, and their Tailored cut even more so. Jaeger has the best RTW cut for gangly men I've found so far.
post #307 of 313

good thread

 

I have similiar problems. I'm slim 1'87m 80kg (around 175lbs, 6'2''). At that size buying shirts is already a big challenge.

Even biggest slim-fit shirts billow a lot in the back. 37/38 collar size is the worst problem, that is if I want to wear a tie with a shirt.There is slim selection of 37/38 where I live plus 90% of them will be too small at chest as I have regular shoulders

:(   

 

jeans are another challenge 31/36 size is not overly common on the shop shelves, most shops don't even have it lol

post #308 of 313

Hi Meesh,

 

Do you still work in mens wear? I've started a new clothing company and am interested in talking with you. Please call me at your convenience at (425)50-4690.

 

Mark Brandsma

Owner

Six-8 Clothing Company

mark@six8clothingcompany.com

www.six8clothingcompany.com

www.facebook.com/six8clothingcompay

@six8clothingco  on Twitter

post #309 of 313
Any ideas on casual wear (t-shirts, sweaters, non-dress long sleeved shirts) that comes in a small size but also a long length? There's a lot of info on MTM for dress shirts and suits but he's looking to build up his non-work wardrobe.  
 
I'm trying to find brands that carry Small Tall sizes -- I know there are some that do Medium Tall but my boyfriend is *really* thin -- 6'3", ~140 pounds, pants are a 30x34. Medium t-shirts are too big in the body, but then regular smalls are too short and we can't seem to find things that come in a Small Tall. Would love to find a brand with casual wear that runs on the slimmer/longer side to begin with, as well as brands that specifically have a Small Tall size. Any ideas? 
post #310 of 313
6'3 is not that tall, Longsleeves/tshirts/polos from Abercrombie/Hollister run small, their L is not really large but fits me good for example(i'm 6'2 though I don't have very long torso/arms), maybe M would fit me too not sure cause I got them as a gift don't have their shops nearby. Also if you make sure that polo/longsleeve fits good in the chest, you can take it to some cheap tailor. I have my polos altered dirt cheap so they don't look like tents, and well only one got messed up in the process (it was slimmed too much around the hips and rear ;P )
post #311 of 313

I read through most of the thread, but does anyone know of a reference that lists SF approved brands that carry medium-tall?

 

The only place I normally pick up OTR tshirts are from Jcrew, and they aren't the quality I'm looking for..

post #312 of 313
24
6'3
122lbs
Castilian/Norwegian

Super LOVING this post!!!
Few tips however,
Nudie- Be adamant and ON IT both Pre/Beginning Season. Desires style go quick.
Zara-Major Cities have best selection(NYC, Miami, Las Vegas-my favorite)
Women's vintage! Not only is it "So hipster and queer friendly of you" it's extremely fitted for tall skinny men(Anne Klein, Prada, Chanel ect)
Gap. Levi's. J crew. Uniqlo. Frank & Oak.

And to whom ever think Skinny jeans is a No-No is a complete tard. They're made for US smile.gif
post #313 of 313
Hi Mark,
I am sorry for taking so long to get back to you. I didn't get your message from the Forum. If you are still working on the project., Let me know. I am juggling too businesses and no longer in menswear but it's my passion. Seems we may be bi- coastal. Let me know if you are if you still are interested. The phone number in your post is missing a number. You can reach me at 929-400-7389.
Best,
Michelle
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