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fritzl

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Originally Posted by MalfordOfLondon
+ 1 - not quite sure what the OP means here.

thats quite simple.

the cobbler/shoemaker grounds/sands down the frame a bit.

i have done this recently on several pairs. not a big deal and it can improve the appearance, depending on your personal preferences.
 

MalfordOfLondon

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Originally Posted by fritzl
thats quite simple.

the cobbler/shoemaker grounds/sands down the frame a bit.

i have done this recently on several pairs. not a big deal and it can improve the appearance, depending on your personal preferences.


Ahh right - yup - would be interested to see the results then
 

apropos

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Originally Posted by MalfordOfLondon
Ahh right - yup - would be interested to see the results then
I have seen them (quar's) in the flesh. Objectively it is a small difference, but it does alter the overall look quite a bit. The cobber sands down the edge of the sole around the forepart, avoids sanding the beveled waist, and then if needed repeats the process around the heel. The freshly resanded bits are then recoloured. For a similar result - just look at any Lobb City, where the edge is trimmed really close to the upper. IMO the larger welt 'lip' is part of what makes Vass shoes look a little more rustic, and perhaps a little less elegant.
 

fritzl

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Originally Posted by apropos
welt 'lip'

ah, now i have this term handy, ty.
 

quar

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Here's a pair I had sanded back by my Cobbler. Process as per apropos's description. Makes all the difference for me.

HocFM.jpg
 

MalfordOfLondon

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^^ He's done a good job. That makes it look like a completely different shoe. Less rugged. Not sure if it would work so well on a double sole?
 

Pliny

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Originally Posted by quar
And another.

[/IMG]


cheers, they look good. wonder if Vass would just make a tighter welt on request. fwiw tho i like the shoes the way they are and have never thought of it an an issue. part of the character
 

kolecho

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Originally Posted by Pliny
cheers, they look good. wonder if Vass would just make a tighter welt on request. fwiw tho i like the shoes the way they are and have never thought of it an an issue. part of the character

Agreed. If I want a less prominent welt, English shoes with single soles are the way to go. Having said that, a less prominent welt on black calf U or F last oxfords can look very nice in single sole.
 

fritzl

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Originally Posted by MalfordOfLondon
Not sure if it would work so well on a double sole?

you're talking about the look?
 

fritzl

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Originally Posted by kolecho
If I want a less prominent welt, English shoes with single soles are the way to go.

the prominence of the welt has nothing to do with the thickness of the sole...
facepalm.gif
 

Slewfoot

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Originally Posted by fritzl
the prominence of the welt has nothing to do with the thickness of the sole...
facepalm.gif

I believe they go hand in hand, but don't necessarily have to. On my last pair of MTO EG's I had them do a 1.5 thickness sole. The welt stuck out noticeably more than previous shoes which wasn't something I asked for, but ended up liking.
 

fritzl

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Originally Posted by MalfordOfLondon
Yep. I think trimming a double sole back would look odd. What say you?

i say, it's depending on what you're aiming at. what's your motivation.

quar's method to do it locally with your cobbler is a very good way to achieve a perfect result.
 

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