Moving to the Dallas area

Welp, I got into grad school so this DC beltway bandit is off to the Dallas/Plano area for the next 17 months. What can you all tell me about...

1. The shopping/restaurants/bars in the area (although kunk's two month old "what do to in Dallas?" post kind of covers a lot of restaurants)?
2. The rent in Plano?
3. The weather? I heard high temps, but generally fairly dry.
4. The pollen? I'm getting murdered here in NYC, but to be fair I get murdered every Springtime.

Need a bit more info. How old are you? Married or single? Kids? Why Plano? Most people who choose Plano do so for the combination of schools and cost of living. If its entertainment you want, there are better areas of Dallas.

Pollen can be bad. Dallas sits in the 3-Forks area of the Trinity river, where three branches come together. The Indians essentially refused to live here in the old days, because it was damp, buggy and had lots of pollen. At least that's the story I've heard. None of that particularly bothers me (I don't have allergies).

20's, unmarried. Grad school at the Guildhall at SMU. It's very close to the Legacy Town Center, so many students rent there. If there are areas to live closer to Dallas that has less of a commute, then that'd be better, but I'd want to minimize my commute to classes as much as possible.

Originally Posted by Nananine

Click to expand...

20's, unmarried. Grad school at the Guildhall at SMU. It's very close to the Legacy Town Center, so many students rent there. If there are areas to live closer to Dallas that has less of a commute, then that'd be better, but I'd want to minimize my commute to classes as much as possible.

Legacy Town Center is pretty nice. I'd say that's a pretty good place to start (it's also less than 2 miles from my house).

Given where you're going to school and what you're looking for, it's probably as good as any I know of. I agree that in school you'll want to minimize your commute. LTC sounds like a great choice. There's more nightlife in the Addison area, but frankly you're probably better off living near school and commuting 10 minutes or so down the Tollway to the bars/restaurants in Addison than trying to live there and commute back to Plano.

The really hot, single areas of Dallas (West Village, etc.) are just way too far away if you're going to school at SMU/Legacy.

I haven't lived in Dallas for a while, but here are some ideas...

Originally Posted by Nananine

Click to expand...

1. The shopping/restaurants/bars in the area?

You've picked Dallas's best pastimes -- shopping, eating and drinking.

Shopping is either mall based, like NorthPark or Legacy, or nearer the downtown area, like the downtown Neiman's, Stanley Korshak, West Village, etc.

Other nice things about Dallas is very accessible and decently patronised arts. The Kimball in Fort Worth is a superb museum. The symphony and theater in Dallas is very palatable, and you can basically always get tickets.

I also found people to be much more approachable and open than New Yorkers. Although I didn't meet a lot of people I really liked, it was easy to meet folks.

3. The weather? I heard high temps, but generally fairly dry.

Click to expand...

Dallas is sort of at the southern end of the midwest, so it's midwestern weather but hotter.

You can get snow in the winter, but mostly it's just kind of cool and clear in winter (like October in NYC). At times, you'll get periods in the 70s or 80s in the winter too, so it's very tolerable. You need about one medium-weight coat and not a single heavy one.

The summer starts in early May and it doesn't really cool off until Thanksgiving. They are long and hot. I moved there from NYC, so for me summers were for walking and outside. I was dis-abused of that notion quickly. It's like winter in Canada -- you avoid being outside for most of it. Walk from your air conditioned apartment to your air conditioned car and hope not to sweat through your clothes in that 3 minutes.

Also, you'll learn to appreciate the heat in a way. When I first moved there, a friend from NYC who'd been there a few years said Dallas will teach you to appreciate the difference between 99 and 103. That's true.

4. The pollen? I'm getting murdered here in NYC, but to be fair I get murdered every Springtime.

Click to expand...

Look into an allergist. Pollen is worse there. The southern U.S. is the worst in the country because their blooming season lasts like 8 months, whereas it lasts about 2-3 months in New York.

Very good sushi/sashimi at Ra in Legacy Park... If Naan is still open up there, also quality sushi.

Very attractive women usually at Mi Cocina in Legacy Park especially on weekend nights.

Nordstrom Rack on Preston just north of the George Bush can be hit or miss.

For minor league basebore, the Frisco Roughriders park is actually a good venue... and not an asswhip to get to like the ballpark in Arlington.

Welcome to Texas.

A word of warning... if you see the occasional male walking around with a vaccuous look in their eyes, wearing bib overalls, missing a front tooth and lusting after the stray barnyard animal.. simply ignore them... they are our resident aggies... and they can't help themselves.

1. The shopping/restaurants/bars in the area (although kunk's two month old "what do to in Dallas?" post kind of covers a lot of restaurants)?

Click to expand...

Restaurants are good. Shopping isn't ungodly, depending on your taste (North Park Center has a Barney's, Billy Reid, etc..).

Bars - what are you looking for? Douche clubs - there are plenty. Dive bars - plenty. Live music - a little. Most of them are pretty boring, but I tend to think all bars are boring unless I know some of the staff.

3. The weather? I heard high temps, but generally fairly dry.

Click to expand...

Hot, humid. Horrible - I think we rank as one of the ten most uncomfortable areas in the country.

4. The pollen? I'm getting murdered here in NYC, but to be fair I get murdered every Springtime.

Click to expand...

Bad. Air quality in general is atrocious.

Originally Posted by TexasLidig8r

Click to expand...

Very good sushi/sashimi at Ra in Legacy Park... If Naan is still open up there, also quality sushi.

Very attractive women usually at Mi Cocina in Legacy Park especially on weekend nights.

Nordstrom Rack on Preston just north of the George Bush can be hit or miss.

For minor league basebore, the Frisco Roughriders park is actually a good venue... and not an asswhip to get to like the ballpark in Arlington.

Welcome to Texas.

A word of warning... if you see the occasional male walking around with a vaccuous look in their eyes, wearing bib overalls, missing a front tooth and lusting after the stray barnyard animal.. simply ignore them... they are our resident aggies... and they can't help themselves.

I co-sign this post. However, my 16 year old son would tell you that while the sushi at RA is very good, the asswhip music they play almost makes it not worth it. Also, a Cafe Istanbul (Turkish food) just opened across from RA.

I miss Dallas. I was born and raised there.

If you have allergies, you're going to be in for a rough time. Pollen is pretty atrocious. The weather is hot but dry so its not that bad. Almost all housing will come with air conditioning so when you're indoors its not really noticeable.

Where is this idea that Dallas is dry coming from? Relative humidity during the summer is 80% plus - the heat index for July-August routinely hits 105-110 during the day.

I am temporarily in Plano... and seriously the weather in Dallas is probably the worst of any city I've ever lived in.

Hot & humid in the summer; cold and humid in the winter. At least in a place like Phoenix that is unbearable in the summer, you have reallly gorgeous weather 8 months of the year. Not so in Dallas. Also, there is nothing to do here aside from boozing, eating, and shopping. No outdoorsy activities. No real cultural activities. People reference that art scene (as someone else did), and while the Kimball is nice, let's get real... there really isn't that much going on in that regard.

It's also disarming to me to come from an urban city where we walked to the bars to come here where you always have to have a designated driver or, more often than not sadly, drive slightly drunk (so irresponsible! I know! but I'm usually not the driver and the supposedly designated driver ALWAYS seems to end up having more than he/she should). I don't know if you're used to that already... it's new to me.

Of Plano, the youngest, 'hippest' area is probably that Legacy Park place you're thinking of moving to. There aren't a whole lot of restaurants (or any really) in this area that I'd go to unless it's out of necessity (ie. too lazy to drive to dallas). Otherwise, for more 'nightlife', neighbourhoody-vibe, there is Uptown in Dallas. There are quite a few good restaurants down there... TeiTei is good japanese food (not just sushi), Fearing's is tasty and has a nice outdoor bar area, Bengal Coast is quite good but pretty empty all the time--hopefully it won't close soon! Anyway, food wise, there is a surprisingly good selection nowadays that I didn't remember existing before. Thank goodness.

Although I really wish Trader Joe's were here. I am addicted to their tart frozen yogurt.

You are such a snob! Wait a sec...

Originally Posted by The Snob

Click to expand...

I am temporarily in Plano... and seriously the weather in Dallas is probably the worst of any city I've ever lived in. Hot & humid in the summer; cold and humid in the winter.

Yeah, it's pretty bad, although I've lived in the Northern Midwest and found it worse, and I'd take Dallas's weather over either Houston or Austin, not to mention places like New Orleans.

Also, there is nothing to do here aside from boozing, eating, and shopping.

Click to expand...

Yeah, those are the maintsays, it seemed to me.

No outdoorsy activities.

Click to expand...

I think you're generally right in that there are no mountains, forests or whitewater. However, there is a lot of outdoorsy activity if you're into fishing, boating, hunting or horses. In addition, there are outdoors activities since it's mild most of the year, which is why there are a lot of bikers, runners, ball players, etc. It's the "OUTSIDE MAGAZINE" conception of outdoorsy where Dallas, and Texas, doesn't do so good.

No real cultural activities. People reference that art scene (as someone else did), and while the Kimball is nice, let's get real... there really isn't that much going on in that regard.

Click to expand...

I moved from NYC to Dallas and moved back, and it's certainly no New York. On the other hand, the culture is there and very accessible if you want it. There are passable museums, fine theater and music, and it's possible to get into the scenes very easily. Try meeting musicians in the New York Philharmonic. I did that in Dallas without much trouble at all. In that way, it's better than other places.

It's also disarming to me to come from an urban city where we walked to the bars to come here where you always have to have a designated driver or, more often than not sadly, drive slightly drunk (so irresponsible!)

Click to expand...

Of course, if you live in the M Streets, Deep Ellum, Uptown, Downtown, Oak Lawn, etc., you can walk to bars. I did.

Originally Posted by The Snob

Click to expand...

I am temporarily in Plano... and seriously the weather in Dallas is probably the worst of any city I've ever lived in.

Hot & humid in the summer; cold and humid in the winter. At least in a place like Phoenix that is unbearable in the summer, you have reallly gorgeous weather 8 months of the year. Not so in Dallas. Also, there is nothing to do here aside from boozing, eating, and shopping. No outdoorsy activities. No real cultural activities. People reference that art scene (as someone else did), and while the Kimball is nice, let's get real... there really isn't that much going on in that regard.

It's also disarming to me to come from an urban city where we walked to the bars to come here where you always have to have a designated driver or, more often than not sadly, drive slightly drunk (so irresponsible! I know! but I'm usually not the driver and the supposedly designated driver ALWAYS seems to end up having more than he/she should). I don't know if you're used to that already... it's new to me.

Of Plano, the youngest, 'hippest' area is probably that Legacy Park place you're thinking of moving to. There aren't a whole lot of restaurants (or any really) in this area that I'd go to unless it's out of necessity (ie. too lazy to drive to dallas). Otherwise, for more 'nightlife', neighbourhoody-vibe, there is Uptown in Dallas. There are quite a few good restaurants down there... TeiTei is good japanese food (not just sushi), Fearing's is tasty and has a nice outdoor bar area, Bengal Coast is quite good but pretty empty all the time--hopefully it won't close soon! Anyway, food wise, there is a surprisingly good selection nowadays that I didn't remember existing before. Thank goodness.

Although I really wish Trader Joe's were here. I am addicted to their tart frozen yogurt.

You want humidity.. try Houston or Nawlins.

As for the arts scene... a world class opera hall is opening this fall.. the Myerson Symphony Center is fabulous and the new Dallas Theater Center is also opening. The Nasher Sculpture Garden is one of the largest modern and contemporary sculpture museums in the United States. Concerts at the Myerson, the DMA, the Strauss Outdoor Plaza, the Arboretum (in addition to the live music venues) are available pretty much year round. It's not New York or D.C., but.. there are many options to be found.

As for "outdoors" activities, numerous lakes surround and are in Dallas for boating, sailing... jogging path around White Rock Lake, the golf courses are very respectable.

The one thing Dallas does NOT have.. natural beauty.. we have no mountains, no beachfront and no navigable water way (i.e., river).

Oh yes, I forgot about the lakes and whatnot. I guess there is that if you're into fishing. It seems to be the only thing my old man does. I was never really into that, and my view from the plane never made the nearby lakes look that appealing for a visit.

I'm a mountain girl even though it seems for all my life I've lived in flat wastelands (Chicago, Toronto, Dallas ha).

Anyway... all right, excuse my diarrhea of Dallas hate in my last post. I guess this city isn't THAT bad... there are some solid people here... although it is the land of the "$30,000 millionaire". Also, I'm quite relieved that my current stay is only temporary.

Originally Posted by Nananine

Click to expand...

Welp, I got into grad school so this DC beltway bandit is off to the Dallas/Plano area for the next 17 months. What can you all tell me about...

1. The shopping/restaurants/bars in the area (although kunk's two month old "what do to in Dallas?" post kind of covers a lot of restaurants)?
2. The rent in Plano?
3. The weather? I heard high temps, but generally fairly dry.
4. The pollen? I'm getting murdered here in NYC, but to be fair I get murdered every Springtime.

holy ****, nananine, I work in the same complex as the Guildhall (I'm literally 50 ft away from them right now). That is creepy.

To answer your questions-

1) You're right, the closest "hip area" is Legacy Town Center. There's a lot of shopping and restaurants, but Plano doesn't have a real "bar" scene- every bar has to be a restaurant, so it's a lot of Bennigan's Type Bars, or Sports Bars.

I've lived in Plano since I was born, moved out for college- I'm 24 now- and I only party, bar-hop in Plano if it's a last resort. Literally, partying in Plano is one notch below "staying home and playing Xbox". I lived at home for 1.5 years after college graduation, and it bored me to tears.

I now live in Addison- which was the best compromise between having a social scene and living in plano. Addison is opposite traffic, so it's about 15 minutes to and from work. If you decide to live in Legacy Town Center, it'd be a 5 minute bike ride/2 minute drive.

2) The apartments in Legacy Town Center are very nice, and probably some of the most expensive in plano. 1 BR rent is going to be around $900 - $1000. This will be a lot less than what you're paying right now, so this might be okay with you, but you can find a 1 BR within a 5 minutes drive for around $700.

The advantage of living in Legacy Town Center is that it's convenient for food- but there's not grocery store per say, and the shopping is rather expensive (high-end furniture stores, etc). I debated a long time about living there- I get tired of driving, but living in LTC still means you have to walk to a grocery store/McDonald's, etc. Most of the restaurants in LTC are "date-quality" nice, not "college diner" nice. There is a jamba juice, a starbucks, and a fast-casual chinese place though.

3) The weather is ******* hot here. I love that. I hate the cold. I don't have a big problem with allergies, so I'm not the best person to ask for that.

4) I hear the guildhall's a really good school. Most of the kids are total dorks, but they seem to be having fun. Ensemble Studios is actually headquartered in the LTC, but since they shut down, I don't know if Robot Entertainment picked back up there or what.

Anyways, let me know if you have any more questions.