Firs bespoke suit- critique please (pics inside)

Who is the maker of the shirt???

Originally Posted by Bustersrq

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Who is the maker of the shirt???

Da Vinci. Polish MTM maker- my regular shirt supplier. Read my blog and you will read a report on them in near future.

Do you like the shirt?

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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What's wrong with the braces?

I don't like the way it's clashing with the blue tie, those are two very bold colors.

I don't think that this suit compares well to carefully altered RTW.

Nearly everything looks off to me. It's not like it's terrible (although the shoulders and back look rather bad,) but that if I think of all the photographs together, it is as if your tailor lacks the instinct or developed style to make you look good.

That sounds more harsh than I intend, but there it is. I don't think that tweaking the pattern for your next item is going to address the fundamental problem.

Have you thought of using someone else?


- B

Originally Posted by CharlesAlexander

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I don't like the way it's clashing with the blue tie, those are two very bold colors.

I never wear my jacket unbuttoned so I don't think there is a problem.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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I don't move that much during the day, but it seems like that much movement is bound to make thinks shift, gape, and ripple.

To an extent, yes. But should the jacket rise 4 inches or so when lifting your arms? I've seen jackets that seem to allow lots of arm movement with minimal pulling in the body.

In fact look at Morrissey's white jacket in this video:

That isn't a perfect example, but it goes some way to illustrating what I mean.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I don't think that this suit compares well to carefully altered RTW.

Nearly everything looks off to me. It's not like it's terrible (although the shoulders and back look rather bad,) but that if I think of all the photographs together, it is as if your tailor lacks the instinct or developed style to make you look good.

That sounds more harsh than I intend, but there it is. I don't think that tweaking the pattern for your next item is going to address the fundamental problem.

Have you thought of using someone else?


- B


Unfortunately they are the only option in Warsaw.

Originally Posted by macaroni

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Do you like the shirt?


Very nice collar in my opinion. My favorite style.

Quarters should be more opened. It could be the angle of the picture but the jacket also looks too long by about an inch.

Originally Posted by CharlesAlexander

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I don't like the way it's clashing with the blue tie, those are two very bold colors.

Eh. I don't see a problem with it. Anyway, the braces are typically hidden. I don't wear braces, but I wear bold, contrasting ribbon belts all the time.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I don't think that this suit compares well to carefully altered RTW.

Nearly everything looks off to me. It's not like it's terrible (although the shoulders and back look rather bad,) but that if I think of all the photographs together, it is as if your tailor lacks the instinct or developed style to make you look good.

That sounds more harsh than I intend, but there it is. I don't think that tweaking the pattern for your next item is going to address the fundamental problem.

Have you thought of using someone else?

I think this is a bit harsh. The back needs help, and the shoulders can be tweaked, but I don't think it looks bad on him. The regionality of the style is ambiguous, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. I like the overall shape. If I were to Foof this, the changes would be very minor--nothing like what Sebastian required.

Originally Posted by winston

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To an extent, yes. But should the jacket rise 4 inches or so when lifting your arms? I've seen jackets that seem to allow lots of arm movement with minimal pulling in the body.

In fact look at Morrissey's white jacket in this video:

I can't view the video at work, but I guess all I can say is that I don't expect my own jackets to perform much differently when I raise my arms like that.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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The pants look great except for the rippling under your rear-end.

As for the jacket, I'd want more open quarters and a slightly lower buttoning point. There appears to be some rippling behind your collar they can clean up easily. The shoulder line looks good until you get to top of the right sleeve. Your left jacket sleeve looks short, but I think that's because the shirt sleeve is longer than on the right.

Saved me the trouble of writing exactly the same things.

Jacket is slightly too long in proportion to your legs. I would like more waist suppression. Your left arm confuses me

can't tell if its bespoke or really well fitting RTW

Originally Posted by winston

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In fact look at Morrissey's white jacket in this video

Anyone knows who makes Morrisey's suits - very nice? I tried Goggle-ing but a Morrissey Brand came up.

- M

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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I think this is a bit harsh. The back needs help, and the shoulders can be tweaked, but I don't think it looks bad on him. The regionality of the style is ambiguous, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. I like the overall shape. If I were to Foof this, the changes would be very minor--nothing like what Sebastian required.

I am being unclear. When something is off in the way that it is here, it is something more than the details that need to be cleaned up.

Despite all the online photo Foofing, you are stand-off-ish with your tailor, are you not? You put yourself in the hand of your shop's stylist and his cutter/fitter. You communicate few details of fit and construction to them, and you are delighted with the results. You handle the macro; they handle the micro.

What I fear in this case is that if a list of micro-managed changes were developed, and this list presented to this tailor, you would encounter the paradox that for each thing "fixed," something new that is wrong would be created. It is not enough to have a list of things to be tweaked, there has to be a tailoring eye at work that has a concept of a whole that looks good.

Think of what you went through with Oxxford.


- B