C&J Handgrade Leather Quality?

I just wrote a post regarding my recent Tricker's acquisitions. In light of having purchased them so recently, comparisons with my C&J handrades, with whom they share a shelf, were perhaps inevitable. I have questions about the handgrade leather. I am absolutely OCD when it comes to caring for my shoes. Trees, conditioner, polish, no wearing in the rain, etc. My handgrades (Audley, Clifford, Belgrave) have not rewarded me with incredible quality endurance. The Audleys are in the dark brown antique. The leather has formed hundreds of tiny alligator cracks if you look at it closely, mostly on the outside of the shoe toward the tow box (last two inches before the cap). Not very obvious unless you really look, but if you DO look closely, you can see them. On one of the Audleys, there are pronounced creases across the top of the shoe just beneath the cap, and betweenn the cap and the throat (whatever you call that). When you condition them they are not as obvious, but after wearing them for a day the creases are back, and are actually light colored, almost as if they are dried out.

The Belgraves have the same issues, though much less pronounced.

The Cliffords do not have any of these issues.

I guess the main issue I have with the leather is that it seems very, very dry. The leather is definitely thinner and more "fine" than other shoes I have, which probably makes it "better" quality leather. But like I said, it seems dried out to me and creases very, very easily, one of them (the right foot, which is wider and shaped a little differently) in particular.

The Tricker's have none of these issues, nor do my other "high end" shoes like Tramezza, Edward Green, Santoni, etc.

Just some observations.

My Cliffords are holding up great, leather wise. The leather is pretty substantial and is creasing where it should be creasing.

What colour are your shoes?

The Audleys are dark brown, and the Belgraves are tan (they are actually Lauren). The Cliffords are holding up beautifully.

Thinking of diving in for some Audley's...would love to hear more feedback on this subject.

Can you perhaps post some pictures?

Yeah, let me take some over the weekend. The Audley also has some spots in the leather that show as darkish spots. Almost like water spots (or piss God forbid!). No other shoe I own has these. When you apply conditioner and then polish they are absolutely stunning. They shine like polished wood. But by day's end, those creases are very, very obvious, and are this lighter dried out color that I've tried to describe.

1. the Trickers are a recent purchase, your C&Js are not.

2. I wonder how much of your observations might be due to your shoe care regimen - what is it like? In particular the statement about light coloured cracks piques my interest; it sounds like a classic case of over-waxing.

I like my C&J handgrades. I bought mine from T&A in New York and think the price point offers a fair product. I paid $775, plus $100 for shoe trees and tax.....came out to around $950ish. I wear these most days to work and they fit good.

I also have Edward Green MTO, G&G MTO and Cleverley RTW/Semi-Bespoke which are all much better than my C&J shoes. I think the leather used by Edward Green, Cleverley & G&G are generally better than C&J use, which is why they are more expensive. However, in recent months with the pound being so weak I have taken advantage with ordering a few more Cleverley shoes (Anthony Cleverley/Semi-Bespoke) & the Edward Green Walcot in black calf on the 888 last. All of which were near the same price of C&J, for a much better product.

In New York, I generally swing by Leffot or duncan quinn for my shoes (outside of the trunk shows).

Originally Posted by Lawman

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Yeah, let me take some over the weekend. The Audley also has some spots in the leather that show as darkish spots. Almost like water spots (or piss God forbid!). No other shoe I own has these. When you apply conditioner and then polish they are absolutely stunning. They shine like polished wood. But by day's end, those creases are very, very obvious, and are this lighter dried out color that I've tried to describe.

Just ordered the dark brown audleys. Interested to hear from some other owners.

I've got an ongoing problem with a pair of Weymouths in Dark Brown which sounds similar.

Can I ask which polish you're using on them, is it the C&J polish?

I have exactly the same problem with my C&J Whitehalls! After a good polish they look stunning. But after 10 mins of wear they have enormous creases and the leather looks extremely dry. I use top notch shoe polish (on par with Saphir, if not better). I have used leather conditioner, special grease, wax and polish. Nothing helps.

I'm starting to have the same problem with my Lobbs as well. While my C&J's benchgrades stay perfect. Very strange...

Could all this be due to a lack of care during the storage/ on the shelves prior to the sale? I surprised that this would happen on a $400+ shoe. The cattles these days must have lived in horrid conditions. I wonder how good the leather is from Kobe calfs.

Originally Posted by Roman_empire

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I have exactly the same problem with my C&J Whitehalls! After a good polish they look stunning. But after 10 mins of wear they have enormous creases and the leather looks extremely dry. I use top notch shoe polish (on par with Saphir, if not better). I have used leather conditioner, special grease, wax and polish. Nothing helps.

I suggest to you to use Saphire cream pommadier Maedaille d'or. Alternate wax and cream. My C&J HG in black (4 are perfect so. The only C&J a bit dry is Audley in dark brown. But for these shoes I never used the cream. I have to buy the cream pommadier for these. In any case I think that EG's leather is better.

ps. I'm sorry for my broken english.

I am in agreement with instep. It seems like a classic case of wax build up. For me, the wax creases generally don't reappear if I wear the shoe for a few minutes just after polishing and subsequently rebuff.