What do you guys want?

j · Mar 24, 2007

Originally Posted by Jared

If you think back, j, I suspect you already know the answer to this.

Haha, I vaguely remember that. (BTW, what ever happened to Bjorn?) But this is a different situation. AFAIK there is no cotton equivalent to high twist/double twist wool yarns. However, any woven material cut on the bias (pieces cut so the yarns run diagonally instead of horiz/vert) will have some stretch in the horizontal/vertical directions.

So, I was thinking that cutting the yoke and the back on the bias might help ease a constrictive slim fit shirt. Basically as you move your arms forward, you stretch the yarns more horizontal, thus stretching the shirt across your back and shortening it as well.

But I don't know if there is some other problem with doing this. I kind of think there must be or I would have seen some example of it in the wild by now....

j · Mar 24, 2007

Originally Posted by jj4

+1 I would love to see some shirts like this!
P.s.: There is a market over on Mens Clothing for these as well...

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...t+sleeve+linen

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...nen#post382422

Rome · Mar 24, 2007

I was thinking there could be something done with the darts in the back and some shoulder pleating to help with movement.

j · Mar 24, 2007

Originally Posted by Rome

I was thinking there could be something done with the darts in the back and some shoulder pleating to help with movement.
The problem with pleating linen is that the pleats don't stay for long at all, so it just puffs out. However, you could do an enclosed box pleat with the inside folds edgesewn so they would stay sharp. You see this sometimes on shooting jackets or safari jackets, often with a waist belt or just a back waistband piece. This might be better suited to more of a shirt-jacket.

Or you could do an action back like motorcycle jackets sometimes have, with big pleats hidden behind the shoulders:

Personally I think if the shoulders are made a bit wider than usual for the chest/waist size, and the armholes are not too small, it shouldn't bind too badly. Maybe the armhole shape could be altered (little more room in the back of it) so that the shoulder/arm can rotate out a little better.

Max · Mar 25, 2007

A decent pair of dark gray corduroy jeans. Straight leg; 8.5" leg opening. Shorts too, but fuller cut and ending at mid-thigh.

I was thinking of making myself a white dress shirt with a jersey knit back. Sort of a play on using an underwear fabric for something nobody really sees anyway.

Jared · Mar 25, 2007

Originally Posted by michaeljkrell

We have three hoodies that were inspired by the W&H hoodies. They are cleaner, a little more classic & a lot less...
Oh my, I didn't even see those in your thread!

That's exactly what I meant... BTW, your current thread setup isn't working for me: the forum software notifies of a new message whether it's somebody asking a question (which I don't care about), or you've posted a bunch of new stock.

raley · Mar 25, 2007

Going off of what J said, I think a shirt jacket along the lines of some of the ones the EG has done, but maybe a bit simpler/plainer would be great.

michaeljkrell · Mar 25, 2007

Originally Posted by Jared

Oh my, I didn't even see those in your thread!

That's exactly what I meant...

BTW, your current thread setup isn't working for me: the forum software notifies of a new message whether it's somebody asking a question (which I don't care about), or you've posted a bunch of new stock.

Is there anything I can do to make it easier?

I guess I could start having a mailing list and I could send everyone an email once I post something else...

Brandon Abell · Mar 25, 2007

Originally Posted by j

Haha, I vaguely remember that. (BTW, what ever happened to Bjorn?) But this is a different situation. AFAIK there is no cotton equivalent to high twist/double twist wool yarns. However, any woven material cut on the bias (pieces cut so the yarns run diagonally instead of horiz/vert) will have some stretch in the horizontal/vertical directions.

So, I was thinking that cutting the yoke and the back on the bias might help ease a constrictive slim fit shirt. Basically as you move your arms forward, you stretch the yarns more horizontal, thus stretching the shirt across your back and shortening it as well.

But I don't know if there is some other problem with doing this. I kind of think there must be or I would have seen some example of it in the wild by now....

I think you'd have to do the whole shirt pattern bias cut otherwise the drape of the straight grain pieces would be different than that of those cut on the bias. An issue of consideration also is that construction and care is quite a bit different with bias cut garments because they elongate when worn and when just sitting on the hanger -- several inches at times. But if done right it would probably look siiiiiiiick.

Vashin · Mar 25, 2007

Originally Posted by michaeljkrell

Is there anything I can do to make it easier?

I guess I could start having a mailing list and I could send everyone an email once I post something else...

Yea that's a pretty good idea, I'd subscribe.

blee017 · Mar 25, 2007

Speaking of linen, something like this would be super. (image link stolen from Arethusa's post in another thread)

Superb0bo · Mar 25, 2007

yea, something like that would be great! collar less linen shirt. and not cut too short..

chronoaug · Mar 25, 2007

I don't think i meet the handsome requirement to wear that shirt.

kronik · Mar 25, 2007

Originally Posted by chronoaug

I don't think i meet the handsome requirement to wear that shirt.

Nor are you on safari.. but it's still a cool shirt.

Bandwagonesque · Mar 25, 2007

Originally Posted by chronoaug

I don't think i meet the handsome requirement to wear that shirt.

Same here. I like j's idea of a military inspired linen shirt. Straight cut bottom hem so it would look good untucked. I have a linen shirt from BR from a few seasons ago sounds exactly what j is looking for, but no epaulettes.

And hemp clothing, that isn't designed for fat aging hippies.

What do you guys want?

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