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What do you guys want?

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by michaeljkrell, Mar 24, 2007.

  1. flashback

    flashback Senior member

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    chords! comfy, worn in, well-fitting and in good colors. I saw some that I really liked in Tokyo (couple stores down from Hinoya) but I denied myself because I had just bought 3 new pairs of denim and the chords were quite expensive. I wish I could remember the name of the brand.
     
  2. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    Deleted what I wrote before, I guess this doesn't have to be just for summer.

    2. I would really like some linen/cotton blend pants, slim fit. You could make them really slim and have no front creases, or preferably somewhat slim with front creases. (IME, creases don't stay well in linen pants). Pretty simple design - lowish rise, quarter pockets, preferably unhemmed 38" inseam. About an 8.5" opening on a 32. A little heavier material so it's not transparent. A very pale grey color would be nice. I also have a pair similar to this (don't fit me anymore) that are navy with a pale grey pinstripe, and that looks very good IMO, though at this point that might look too BR-esque or something. Maybe a 1" subdued beaded check or something like that. And big scale glen plaid would rule too. Please wash the fabric before sewing so they don't shrink on people.

    3. I imagine this would be a more extreme undertaking, but some linen/cotton blend or hemp/cotton blend jeans would kick ass for summer. I had some hemp/cotton ones from Uniqlo that got stolen and I would love to replace them. They were very lightweight material and the creases were amazing. Slim fit, yada yada.
     
  3. nastyandy

    nastyandy Senior member

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    I would like basic l/s button up shirts in a heavier blend that can accommodate broad shoulders and a slim waist (not sure if this is covered under "slim-fit"), if possible a small amount of stretch (lycra/spandex??) in the shirt as well because slim-fit shirts looks nice when I'm standing still but fight like heck when I go to reach for something. .

    +1 on this
     
  4. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    I would like basic l/s button up shirts in a heavier blend that can accommodate broad shoulders and a slim waist (not sure if this is covered under “slim-fit”), if possible a small amount of stretch (lycra/spandex??) in the shirt as well because slim-fit shirts looks nice when I’m standing still but fight like heck when I go to reach for something. .

    This brings up a question (perhaps better suited for the MC board, but) since I hate all the stretch cotton fabrics I've seen (there's something cheesy and I can tell just by looking) is there another way to get stretch in a shirt? I wonder if maybe the back could be cut on the bias? It obviously complicates construction somewhat but I don't know if there are other issues as well.
     
  5. michaeljkrell

    michaeljkrell Senior member

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    Thanks for all the input guys! I will talk to Colby about all of this... We will take a serious look into dress shirts.

    I really like J's idea of the s/s linen shirt. We can always get lots of different colors on linen...

    Also, once we get the first pair of pants made, we can do them in a bunch of different colors and fabrics...

    Keep the ideas coming...
     
  6. Jared

    Jared Senior member

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    +a million on the dress shirts. IIRC, Thick As Thieves is also looking into this, but I think there are more than enough Jantzen refugees to go around! There are a lot of details that could be added for shirts intended to be untuckable and worn without ties. Camp collars for the linen, "Zegna" collars for the cotton. Some research into what hem looks best untucked... The other category of desperation on SW is the supply of W+H hoodies, so I'm sure a competitor to those would do well!
    This brings up a question (perhaps better suited for the MC board, but) since I hate all the stretch cotton fabrics I've seen (there's something cheesy and I can tell just by looking) is there another way to get stretch in a shirt? I wonder if maybe the back could be cut on the bias? It obviously complicates construction somewhat but I don't know if there are other issues as well.
    If you think back, j, I suspect you already know the answer to this. [​IMG]
     
  7. michaeljkrell

    michaeljkrell Senior member

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    The other category of desperation on SW is the supply of W+H hoodies, so I'm sure a competitor to those would do well!
    We have three hoodies that were inspired by the W&H hoodies. They are cleaner, a little more classic & a lot less...
     
  8. jj4

    jj4 Well-Known Member

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    Short sleeve slim fit linen collared shirts with two front pockets, possibly with epaulettes. Make the shoulders a bit wide so that the sleeves can hang down properly and don't stick out to the sides and look all weird and chi-mo. I hate square bottom shirts personally, so a shallow medium length (less than crotch length) curved hem would be best. You could tuck it in to medium-low rise dress pants, but it wouldn't look weird untucked with jeans. Collar stand should be slightly constructed so it will stand up properly under a jacket or sweater, but the collar itself can be a bit less constructed (either heavy weight linen for the whole thing or lightweight interlining). Medium-shortish spread-ish collar.

    +1 I would love to see some shirts like this!
     
  9. no_pseudonym

    no_pseudonym Senior member

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    How about a slim trenchcoat/raincoat for the summer cut to just above the knee? Something that's made of a light waterproof material but doesn't crease up easily.
     
  10. prozach1576

    prozach1576 Senior member

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    LOVE the short sleeve linen idea. I'd buy a few of those for sure.
     
  11. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    If you think back, j, I suspect you already know the answer to this. [​IMG]

    Haha, I vaguely remember that. (BTW, what ever happened to Bjorn?) But this is a different situation. AFAIK there is no cotton equivalent to high twist/double twist wool yarns. However, any woven material cut on the bias (pieces cut so the yarns run diagonally instead of horiz/vert) will have some stretch in the horizontal/vertical directions.

    So, I was thinking that cutting the yoke and the back on the bias might help ease a constrictive slim fit shirt. Basically as you move your arms forward, you stretch the yarns more horizontal, thus stretching the shirt across your back and shortening it as well.

    But I don't know if there is some other problem with doing this. I kind of think there must be or I would have seen some example of it in the wild by now....
     
  12. j

    j Senior member Admin

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  13. Rome

    Rome Senior member

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    I was thinking there could be something done with the darts in the back and some shoulder pleating to help with movement.
     
  14. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    I was thinking there could be something done with the darts in the back and some shoulder pleating to help with movement.
    The problem with pleating linen is that the pleats don't stay for long at all, so it just puffs out. However, you could do an enclosed box pleat with the inside folds edgesewn so they would stay sharp. You see this sometimes on shooting jackets or safari jackets, often with a waist belt or just a back waistband piece. This might be better suited to more of a shirt-jacket.

    [​IMG]

    Or you could do an action back like motorcycle jackets sometimes have, with big pleats hidden behind the shoulders:

    [​IMG]

    Personally I think if the shoulders are made a bit wider than usual for the chest/waist size, and the armholes are not too small, it shouldn't bind too badly. Maybe the armhole shape could be altered (little more room in the back of it) so that the shoulder/arm can rotate out a little better.
     
  15. Max

    Max Senior member

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    A decent pair of dark gray corduroy jeans. Straight leg; 8.5" leg opening. Shorts too, but fuller cut and ending at mid-thigh.

    I was thinking of making myself a white dress shirt with a jersey knit back. Sort of a play on using an underwear fabric for something nobody really sees anyway.
     
  16. Jared

    Jared Senior member

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    We have three hoodies that were inspired by the W&H hoodies. They are cleaner, a little more classic & a lot less...
    Oh my, I didn't even see those in your thread! [​IMG] That's exactly what I meant... BTW, your current thread setup isn't working for me: the forum software notifies of a new message whether it's somebody asking a question (which I don't care about), or you've posted a bunch of new stock. [​IMG]
     
  17. raley

    raley Senior member

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    Going off of what J said, I think a shirt jacket along the lines of some of the ones the EG has done, but maybe a bit simpler/plainer would be great.
     
  18. michaeljkrell

    michaeljkrell Senior member

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    Oh my, I didn't even see those in your thread! [​IMG] That's exactly what I meant...

    BTW, your current thread setup isn't working for me: the forum software notifies of a new message whether it's somebody asking a question (which I don't care about), or you've posted a bunch of new stock. [​IMG]


    Is there anything I can do to make it easier?

    I guess I could start having a mailing list and I could send everyone an email once I post something else...
     
  19. Brandon Abell

    Brandon Abell Member

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    Haha, I vaguely remember that. (BTW, what ever happened to Bjorn?) But this is a different situation. AFAIK there is no cotton equivalent to high twist/double twist wool yarns. However, any woven material cut on the bias (pieces cut so the yarns run diagonally instead of horiz/vert) will have some stretch in the horizontal/vertical directions.

    So, I was thinking that cutting the yoke and the back on the bias might help ease a constrictive slim fit shirt. Basically as you move your arms forward, you stretch the yarns more horizontal, thus stretching the shirt across your back and shortening it as well.

    But I don't know if there is some other problem with doing this. I kind of think there must be or I would have seen some example of it in the wild by now....


    I think you'd have to do the whole shirt pattern bias cut otherwise the drape of the straight grain pieces would be different than that of those cut on the bias. An issue of consideration also is that construction and care is quite a bit different with bias cut garments because they elongate when worn and when just sitting on the hanger -- several inches at times. But if done right it would probably look siiiiiiiick. :)
     
  20. Vashin

    Vashin Senior member

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    Is there anything I can do to make it easier?

    I guess I could start having a mailing list and I could send everyone an email once I post something else...


    Yea that's a pretty good idea, I'd subscribe.
     

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