Advice (please): Blue mid-weight DB coat (blazer?)

radicaldog · Oct 27, 2009

So I'd like to order a blue odd coat in a mid-weight cloth. I live in a temperate climate, and I'd like something which is wearable in the not-too-cold days of winter, but also well into the spring and early in fall. I would've thought that 11 oz or so should fit the bill, provided that it isn't flannel, cashmere, camel hair, or Shetland.

Also, I'd like it to be blue (so it may or may not be a blazer), and DB. More precisely, I'd like to 4x2 with a soft roll to 4x1, 3-patch pockets, double vents. I'm not sure about whether it should have double stitching and/or swelled edges. The shoulders will probably be my usual middle-of-the way thing: neither too natural/rounded nor too boxy.

Now, what cloth? The safest option seems a hopsack of sorts. Add black/grey horn buttons, and there's your pretty safe blazer. But I'm thinking, could this work in a blue Donegal tweed instead, or would that choice of cloth consign the garment to The Big Book of DB Tweed Odd Coat Monstrosities?

Any other suggestions?

yfyf · Oct 27, 2009

Consider a medium weight Fresco? I like the hopsack-ness of it.

radicaldog · Oct 27, 2009

Originally Posted by yfyf

Consider a medium weight Fresco? I like the hopsack-ness of it.

Thanks. I thought about it, but despite the recent discussion in Mafoofan's thread on winter/summer suits I'm still a bit unsure about fresco for non-summer use. Growing up in Italy, fresco is just the first thing that crosses one's mind when thinking about a standard summer suiting (apart from linen. Mohair and tropical are much rarer). Perhaps the LL Brisa cloth may do the trick, but then why not go for a plain old hopsack?

yfyf · Oct 27, 2009

Originally Posted by radicaldog

Thanks. I thought about it, but despite the recent discussion in Mafoofan's thread on winter/summer suits I'm still a bit unsure about fresco for non-summer use. Growing up in Italy, fresco is just the first thing that crosses one's mind when thinking about a standard summer suiting (apart from linen. Mohair and tropical are much rarer). Perhaps the LL Brisa cloth may do the trick, but then why not go for a plain old hopsack?

The two seem so similar in appearance, I use them interchangeably. I'd imagine the Fresco would be more wrinkle resistant than average hopsack because of the advantages of its yarn and weave.

Never saw the MFF thread but the various Fresco books go up to 11 oz which I can't imagine is a particularly good idea for summer.

apropos · Oct 27, 2009

How about Harrison's Sunbeam? Hopsack-ish weave with a tiny bit of shimmer/shine. A very attractive cloth IMO - 80wool/20silk blend IIRC. Almost like a 'luxury' Fresco, if you will.

If you get it fully-lined it would work well in fall and in cooler spring evenings. There is a beautiful navyblue/blue birdseye-like weave that would look smashing with dark brown staghorn buttons, and an equally fetching cream/tan equivalent with a grey windowpane.

whnay. · Oct 27, 2009

I think you are on the right track. I don't think a DB odd coat in donegal will be something you grab often so I'd err on the side of caution and go with the hopsack. The Navy Brisa from LL comes to mind.

As far as details are concerned, swelled edges over double stitch for a DB. Maybe get creative on the button option - something in a matte medium brown might be interesting, black / gray buttons are kinda boring.

Half lined in a patterned silk.

EDIT: Not that you should, but you might want to wait to see what I recently commissioned from Rubinacci as a guide. Your thought process seems quite similar to mine. I'll be able to take photos of it when it arrives within the month.

radicaldog · Oct 27, 2009

Originally Posted by apropos

How about Harrison's Sunbeam? Hopsack-ish weave with a tiny bit of shimmer/shine. A very attractive cloth IMO - wool/silk blend.

If you get it fully lined it would work well in fall and in cooler spring evenings. There is a beautiful navyblue/blue birdseye-like weave that would look smashing with dark brown staghorn buttons, and an equally fetching cream/tan equivalent with a grey windowpane.

I don't think I've seen this book. Unfortunately my (Italian and provincial) tailor carries primarily Zegna, Loro Piana, Drapers, etc., though he does have some of the usual English suspects. I might be able to source it elsewhere anyway, as I'm London fairly frequently.

I'm not too keen on shine (e.g. I don't like mohair), but I do like some silk blends (even some by Dormeuil that I've seen: nice silk/wool herringbones, can't remember the name); so this sounds interesting. Do you remember the weight by any chance?

apropos · Oct 27, 2009

Originally Posted by radicaldog

I don't think I've seen this book. Unfortunately my (Italian and provincial) tailor carries primarily Zegna, Loro Piana, Drapers, etc., though he does have some of the usual English suspects. I might be able to source it elsewhere anyway, as I'm London fairly frequently.

I'm not too keen on shine (e.g. I don't like mohair), but I do like some silk blends (even some by Dormeuil that I've seen: nice silk/wool herringbones, can't remember the name); so this sounds interesting. Do you remember the weight by any chance?
I think it may be a 10oz cloth. What struck me was it felt heavier than its actual weight, and had a pleasant 'sponginess' to the cloth, it that makes any sense.

I thought that it was crease-resistant, had a beautiful handle. It doesn't have the 'matte' shine of high% mohair blends, nor the flat 'oil sheen' of pure silk, more a slight shimmer. Hard to describe. Not attention grabbing by any measure IMO.

There were many beautiful windowpanes in that book as well, if that floats your boat.

I went with a Hardy linen in the end, and it will be finished by year's end - I liked the green-hued blue in the linen more than the purple-hued blue in the Sunbeam book. Please understand that I am splitting hairs here and neither cloth is 'obviously' green or purple.

apropos · Oct 27, 2009

Originally Posted by whnay.

I think you are on the right track. I don't think a DB odd coat in donegal will be something you grab often so I'd err on the side of caution and go with the hopsack. The Navy Brisa from LL comes to mind.

As far as details are concerned, swelled edges over double stitch for a DB. Maybe get creative on the button option - something in a matte medium brown might be interesting, black / gray buttons are kinda boring.

Half lined in a patterned silk.

EDIT: Not that you should, but you might want to wait to see what I recently commissioned from Rubinacci as a guide. Your thought process seems quite similar to mine. I'll be able to take photos of it when it arrives within the month.
+1, but I would go for polished mid to dark brown buttons. Please, IMO not black horn, unless it has a clear 'streak' of white horn through it - I find that effect very attractive.

radicaldog · Oct 28, 2009

Originally Posted by whnay.

I think you are on the right track. I don't think a DB odd coat in donegal will be something you grab often so I'd err on the side of caution and go with the hopsack. The Navy Brisa from LL comes to mind.

As far as details are concerned, swelled edges over double stitch for a DB. Maybe get creative on the button option - something in a matte medium brown might be interesting, black / gray buttons are kinda boring.

Half lined in a patterned silk.

EDIT: Not that you should, but you might want to wait to see what I recently commissioned from Rubinacci as a guide. Your thought process seems quite similar to mine. I'll be able to take photos of it when it arrives within the month.

This is very good and sensible advice (thank you!). Even the patterned lining (which I like for blazers) is quite traditional for such a coat, I believe--at least on your side of the pond. I guess I was testing the waters to see if I could get away with being a tad less sensible. The alternative would be to go for a SB blue Donegal coat, but that would be just another tweed sportscoat, which I really don't need. But you're probably right that the tweed coat-blazer hybrid is isn't worth pursuing.

radicaldog · Oct 28, 2009

Originally Posted by apropos

+1, but I would go for polished mid to dark brown buttons. Please, IMO not black horn, unless it has a clear 'streak' of white horn through it - I find that effect very attractive.
Yes, that's the black horn I like. I have it on a royal blue dupioni suit and it works quite well. On a navy wool/cashmere blazer I have very dark brown/grey, almost black horn buttons, which also work, albeit in a more sedate way. I believe they're water buffalo horn.

whnay. · Oct 28, 2009

Originally Posted by radicaldog

This is very good and sensible advice (thank you!). Even the patterned lining (which I like for blazers) is quite traditional for such a coat, I believe--at least on your side of the pond. I guess I was testing the waters to see if I could get away with being a tad less sensible. The alternative would be to go for a SB blue Donegal coat, but that would be just another tweed sportscoat, which I really don't need. But you're probably right that the tweed coat-blazer hybrid is isn't worth pursuing.

Be less sensible with articles that have sporadic use in your wardrobe. If your in love with blue Donegal and you want something that tests the boundaries - go for a SB suit!

Like I said - wait to see how my recent commission comes out and then decide. I can be your guinea pig...

kuwisdelu · Oct 28, 2009

Originally Posted by radicaldog

I don't think I've seen this book. Unfortunately my (Italian and provincial) tailor carries primarily Zegna, Loro Piana, Drapers, etc., though he does have some of the usual English suspects. I might be able to source it elsewhere anyway, as I'm London fairly frequently. I'm not too keen on shine (e.g. I don't like mohair), but I do like some silk blends (even some by Dormeuil that I've seen: nice silk/wool herringbones, can't remember the name); so this sounds interesting. Do you remember the weight by any chance?
I think this might be the fabric referred to (photos from Andrew Rogers), with the rest of the book here. About 9-10 oz.

whnay. · Oct 28, 2009

Originally Posted by radicaldog

Yes, that's the black horn I like. I have it on a royal blue dupioni suit and it works quite well. On a navy wool/cashmere blazer I have very dark brown/grey, almost black horn buttons, which also work, albeit in a more sedate way. I believe they're water buffalo horn.

Always matte over polished horn buttons - but that's just my personal preference.

radicaldog · Oct 28, 2009

Originally Posted by apropos

I think it may be a 10oz cloth. What struck me was it felt heavier than its actual weight, and had a pleasant 'sponginess' to the cloth, it that makes any sense.

I thought that it was crease-resistant, had a beautiful handle. It doesn't have the 'matte' shine of high% mohair blends, nor the flat 'oil sheen' of pure silk, more a slight shimmer. Hard to describe. Not attention grabbing by any measure IMO.

There were many beautiful windowpanes in that book as well, if that floats your boat.

Sounds very interesting -- thanks.

I'm not a big fan of windowpanes for sportscoats though: for me if a sportscoat is patterned then the pattern should be fairly strong (i.e. something that wouldn't work as a suit), unless the material is clearly jacketing-only (e.g. a Shetland tweed).

Advice (please): Blue mid-weight DB coat (blazer?)

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