Suit critiques needed (pic)- can't figure out what's wrong

Svenn · Aug 9, 2009

Below is my semi-tailored japanese suit that doesn't seem to look quite right. [you might have to right click it, then click 'view image' to have it shrink down to full view in a new window]. It just doesn't seem to conform to my body very well, but I'm not sure why- i think the problem might be the rolled shoulders I requested and the 1940's-ish narrow waist. It's way too tight when I'm sitting at a desk trying to move around papers, but maybe all suits are like that. Someone told me it looked like a nightlife suit, too tight I guess. The tailor said there was an unusually deep cavity where my chest muscles meet my collar bone, making the suit slack there, but I'm not sure about that.

Anyway, I'll want to get a better one in a few months and want to make sure what to ask for. Also, the necktie/shirt collar area doesn't look very professional and i'm again unsure what to do- do i have to get a thick $100 silk tie and a dimpler to look semi-presentable?

doctorj! · Aug 9, 2009

Sleeves are too small. need to add another inch there. I agree on the stomach area. It looks too cinched and seems to be uncomfortable from what you're saying. Would recommend one that fits nice, but not a body hugger.

AJ

Lel · Aug 10, 2009

I think the suit fits fine.

But I can't help but say the obvious answer: If you think it's too tight when you're sitting down why don't you just unbutton it?

jeff13007 · Aug 10, 2009

Agreed the sleeves look a bit short esp on your right hand. also your watch is a bit loose imo but that might just be personal taste. The suit does look a bit uncomfortable but hey you already have to so might as well wear it and get your moneys worth. Anyway you could always take it as a learning experience for your next one.

ZackyBoy · Aug 10, 2009

You look better than the other 99% of people in this world wearing baggy suits and pants; this doesn't answer your question but hopefully it makes you worry less.

Don Carlos · Aug 10, 2009

There's definitely something up with the chest, and if your tailor is chalking it up to lack of chest muscles (or whatever), that's between you and your tailor. Frankly, I've seen extremely skinny guys able to get suits that fit them remarkably well. Then again, I've seen many more that don't quite fill out the chest or shoulders of their suits, and it's always less-than-perfect when it happens. For what it's worth, the overall fit on your suit seems pretty solid -- but those dimples in the chest are bugging me.

My question is this: how do the shoulders fit? My instinct tells me the shoulders of your jacket might be too wide -- which could conceivably cause the lack of chest-fill, especially when coupled with extreme waist suppression. Ultimately, it's tough to diagnose this one completely without knowing what's really going on in the shoulder and back area.

Also, I agree with the above-stated comment that your sleeves are too short. They kind of are.

Finally, this is apropos of nothing, but worth mentioning: I'm not a huge fan of the tie knot. It's way too big and bulbous, especially on your frame.

kuwisdelu · Aug 10, 2009

The overall fit looks pretty good to me. It might be a little tight, but I wear my suits fairly tightly as well. If what you're worried about is maneuverability shuffling papers at the desk (and if unbuttoning doesn't work) I might question the armholes. Modern suits have very low, loose armholes. I order most of my suits with higher armholes that allow more freedom when I need to move around. I still feel snug, but the suit doesn't look too tight, and I can move around freely without feeling constricted. This might be what you need.

PCyclone · Aug 10, 2009

The issue with your tie is that the knot is way too big - pull it tighter (the knot, not the loop around your neck) and/or make the knot in a thinner part of the tie. You can make a dimple just using your fingers and working with it a bit.

83glt · Aug 10, 2009

I think your tie knot is way too small.

Svenn · Aug 10, 2009

Thanks for the tips guys,

yes, i've been realizing that that particular tie was not intended for full windsors, so i'll keep it at halves.

After thinking about it, I just put on the jacket and buttoned up the highest button, something I wasn't doing in that pic or haven't been doing for that matter because, basically, my tailor said it wasn't 'stylish' to button all three of them. anyway, when i button that top one, the front of the suit seems to suck up to my body much better and the stress is taken off the middle one. it looks a bit over-formal like those retro suits NBA players wear, but i might be stuck with that.

there might be a problem with the rolled sholders like one of you mentioned- there's a cavity of slackness about 3 inches down my arm from the peak of the roll.... are rolled shoulders supposed to do that? you can see the dimple it created on my left arm in that pic in that location... it looks sort of like those padded shoulders women wear!

maybe I should try to get the roll reduced or something, if tailors can do that?

also considering putting a white handkerchief in that breast pocket....

Coburn · Aug 10, 2009

Originally Posted by Svenn

Below is my semi-tailored japanese suit that doesn't seem to look quite right. [you might have to right click it, then click 'view image' to have it shrink down to full view in a new window]. It just doesn't seem to conform to my body very well, but I'm not sure why- i think the problem might be the rolled shoulders I requested and the 1940's-ish narrow waist. It's way too tight when I'm sitting at a desk trying to move around papers, but maybe all suits are like that. Someone told me it looked like a nightlife suit, too tight I guess. The tailor said there was an unusually deep cavity where my chest muscles meet my collar bone, making the suit slack there, but I'm not sure about that.

Anyway, I'll want to get a better one in a few months and want to make sure what to ask for. Also, the necktie/shirt collar area doesn't look very professional and i'm again unsure what to do- do i have to get a thick $100 silk tie and a dimpler to look semi-presentable?

I think the button placement is too high. The line of the lapel should make an x with the quarters. the Lapel of the jacket does not line up with the corresponding line of the quarter. You are wearing the pants too low, the belt peaks through the open quarters. Your sleeves are a bit short. Your tie knot is too big -- it's out of proportion. I'm not certain, but I think the shirt collar is too big for the proportions of the jacket. Too much shirt collar is protruding above the jacket collar. I can't see the back but it appears that the collar is gaping away from the back of the shirt collar. On the next suit, I think you should make an effort to have the jacket conform better to the collar of the shirt.

Despos · Aug 10, 2009

The suit jacket doesn't look that bad. I don't think you have worn suit jackets much and are not used to or very experienced to know how it should feel or look.
The correct term is roped shoulder, not rolled shoulder.
The waist can be altered and made larger if you feel it is tight.
Have your tailor take in the jacket about 1/2" at the top of the center seam where the collar meets the back. That should make the upper body feel better.
From your statements I wonder if you thought the look would be different. You may have wanted a different silhouette than this.
Ignore comments like " looks like a nightlife suit". It's just an opinion.

jeff13007 · Aug 10, 2009

Originally Posted by Coburn

I think the button placement is too high. The line of the lapel should make an x with the quarters. the Lapel of the jacket does not line up with the corresponding line of the quarter.

You are wearing the pants too low, the belt peaks through the open quarters.
Your sleeves are a bit short.
Your tie knot is too big -- it's out of proportion.

I'm not certain, but I think the shirt collar is too big for the proportions of the jacket. Too much shirt collar is protruding above the jacket collar.

I can't see the back but it appears that the collar is gaping away from the back of the shirt collar.

On the next suit, I think you should make an effort to have the jacket conform better to the collar of the shirt.

I think the shirt collar is just fine but thats my personal preference there seems to be about 1 and a half inch of collar showing at the back? i like personally like it that way since u still show some collar even when sitting down. Maybe the reason for the gap is because the jacket is too tight so its pulling it away? but its so minute you shouldnt even pay care about that like other people said your suit is better than 99.9% of others, but i agree you need to do something about that tie knot try a smaller knot it looks neater

Dburr · Aug 10, 2009

Originally Posted by Svenn

Below is my semi-tailored japanese suit that doesn't seem to look quite right. [you might have to right click it, then click 'view image' to have it shrink down to full view in a new window]. It just doesn't seem to conform to my body very well, but I'm not sure why- i think the problem might be the rolled shoulders I requested and the 1940's-ish narrow waist. It's way too tight when I'm sitting at a desk trying to move around papers, but maybe all suits are like that. Someone told me it looked like a nightlife suit, too tight I guess. The tailor said there was an unusually deep cavity where my chest muscles meet my collar bone, making the suit slack there, but I'm not sure about that.

Anyway, I'll want to get a better one in a few months and want to make sure what to ask for. Also, the necktie/shirt collar area doesn't look very professional and i'm again unsure what to do- do i have to get a thick $100 silk tie and a dimpler to look semi-presentable?

Sleeves are a little too short - Jacket is at least 1" too short. JMHO

oneade · Aug 10, 2009

are you slouching? it looks like you're rolling your shoulders forward a little. upper chest would probably look better if you didn't slouch (assuming you are). though it'll probably make the tightness in the waist more apparent.

Suit critiques needed (pic)- can't figure out what's wrong

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