Zegna suits.

[GiltEdge]

Originally Posted by miurasv

The following is an answer I got from JC on Yahoo Answers about the 5 manufacturers mentioned.


'Best Answer - Chosen by Voters
First question: are you referring to Armani Collezioni (white label) or Giorgio Armani (black label)? In terms of prestige (and pretty much cost...), from highest to lowest we have:

1.Giorgio Armani Black label
2. Ermenegildo Zegna
3. Armani Collezioni
4. Canali
5. Gucci

However, I would personally say Ermenegildo Zegna is the best of the brands that you mention. Zegna is one of the world's leading weavers of fine wools, competing mainly with a lanificio (wool mill) called Loro Piana. Of these suit makers, only Zegna has regular manufacturing of the objectively highest quality suits, with Made to Measure (su misura) options including handmade buttonholes, hand pick-stitching, and truly beautiful buffalo horn and precious nacre buttons. Of course, Giorgio Armani has the "hand made to measure" service as well, but I would say you get superior quality fabric, workmanship, fit, and price with Zegna over GA.

Giorgio Armani black label is a fused canvas constructed suit (and same with Armani Collezioni). This is the cheapest method of giving body to the suit jacket, although if you want Giorgio Armani's signature natural shoulder silhouette, cardigan-like drape and somewhat atypical synthetic fabrics, you can go no other than the Giorgio Armani boutique. Those ready-made suits are usually $3,500 - $5,000.

Canali does make some suits in Italy, but it is mainly (if not completely) machine done. The fabrics are okay, but definitely not always as good as Zegna's.

Gucci? I heard that in fact they outsource some (if not all) of their suit production to Zegna factories. In fact, Zegna also has a manufacturing deal with the Armani Corporation for manufacturing and distributing some of the Armani Collezioni line.

You want more information? Well, I would say you picked some very well known and reputable suit makers. If you have the cash, you can buy a suit from any of these folks, and receive high-end service while purchasing your garments, and look very good. But if what you really want is a truly superior suit, one that most CEOs likely do not purchase because they are so exclusive and expensive, then you must turn to the brands that only the wealthiest elite patronize, for example, Brioni. Or for similar quality do the top-of-the-line Zegna su misura service. In fact, Brioni likely purchases some of their finest fabric from Zegna wool mills.

And then again, if what you really want is a great fitting suit, with the exact details that you desire, and truly great fabric, there is probably a custom suit maker / tailor in your area. They will likely be able to construct a CUSTOM handmade suit for you starting at around $600 - $1200. Compare that to the machine-made suits from Canali, Armani Collezioni, the ready-to-wear Ermenegildo Zegna, etc which cost about $2,000 off the rack...
Source(s):
personal research'

I am going to addon to that. Giorgio Armani Black Label as of Fall/Winter 2009 is ENTIRELY canvased, no fusing (Loro Piana fabric. Collezioni is full canvas as of this Spring/Summer (Made by Zenga btw, with their fabric and factories). Both lines are now entirely HAND FINISHED, including hand made lapels on all RTW. I was at Neiman Marcus last night and saw some even were fully lined by hand. And as of this season Emporio Armani is now fully canvased! Info comes from a friend at Armani US HQ in NYC, but I have seen the stuff in person and have purchased items, so I can confirm it.

 

[imatlas]

Originally Posted by PaoloM

I am going to addon to that. Giorgio Armani Black Label as of Fall/Winter 2009 is ENTIRELY canvased, no fusing (Loro Piana fabric. Collezioni is full canvas as of this Spring/Summer (Made by Zenga btw, with their fabric and factories). Both lines are now entirely HAND FINISHED, including hand made lapels on all RTW. I was at Neiman Marcus last night and saw some even were fully lined by hand. And as of this season Emporio Armani is now fully canvased! Info comes from a friend at Armani US HQ in NYC, but I have seen the stuff in person and have purchased items, so I can confirm it.


Interesting. So if you buy a BL or AC suit you're essentially buying a Zegna suit with Armani design (and pricing).

Thanks for the info!

 

[GiltEdge]

Originally Posted by imatlas

Interesting. So if you buy a BL or AC suit you're essentially buying a Zegna suit with Armani design (and pricing). Thanks for the info!
BL is Loro Piana as well as other mills, some even from London, which I think is even better than Zenga. but AC's fabrics were specially made by Zenga, but Armani was the one that created them. Basically, Zenga owns I think 49% of the AC label, Armani designs fabrics and designs and Zenga follows his orders. Armani fabrics are unique, that is really what made Armani, Armani; crape wools and shaved cashmere, silk/linen blends. Zenga brand does not use the same fabrics they produce for Armani.

 

[The_Foxx]

try on a zegna Milano model at your local Saks or Neiman Marcus, it's the best the brand makes (other than the harder to find-- and stiffer shouldered Couture line with very high level of hand tailoring).

The other models are not as well made, as good a fit/ cut, etc. and usually not worthwhile unless at large discount as others have mentioned (usually pretty roped shoulders, primarily machine made, etc.)

 

[Green Lantern]

Originally Posted by imatlas

Interesting. Can you expand on this, by explaining the specific cloths that fall under A vs B and how they relate to the models such as Trofeo, Travel, etc?

I am speaking per model of suit. I have an EZ mainline, black peak lapel suit that I bought from Saks. It is wool/silk. I bought it instead of a very similar model at Barneys (black, peak lapel, flat front) which was wool, silk, cashmere. In my shopping, I have found that Zegna will make a suit model in different fabrics. Usually, it will be 2 different fabric compositions (hence my crude use of A and B fabric) that are similar but different. I recently saw a brown plaid EZ suit at Saks for sale at $950.00. I then saw what I thought was the same suit at Barney's, not on sale, but for $2900.00. Closer inspection found a fabric composition difference and a little more workmanship. I hope this adds clarity to my earlier statement.

On another note, Milano is a soft shoulder designation for Zegna and Roma is a heavier padded shoulder.

 

[Green Lantern]

As an post script, please review this: http://www.peterpanos.com/Zegna_Fabric.html

This will allow one to get the concept between fabric runs and construction/craftsmanship.

15 Mil, Traveler and Trofeo are fabric runs (mill talk). Elements jackets uses a particular mill run for it's models. But you can get the same modeled Elements Jacket in leather or cashmere.

 

[Nicola]

Zegna uses many many fabrics depending on the needs of the jacket.

The only time I've seen Trofeo in RTW is the couture line.

Travel fabrics are used in the traveller line of jackets.

I don't seen a construction difference between the various fabrics used in Milano or Roma jackets. The cashmere (pure or blended) will be more expensive then the wool jackets. Which will be more expensive then the linen which will be more expensive then the cotton or cashco jackets.

 

[The_Foxx]

Take a look at the stitching on the shoulders and most seams in a Milano vs roma. To me, tho, the main differences are in cut, padding in shoulders, and maybe length of jacket.

Originally Posted by Nicola

Zegna uses many many fabrics depending on the needs of the jacket.

The only time I've seen Trofeo in RTW is the couture line.

Travel fabrics are used in the traveller line of jackets.

I don't seen a construction difference between the various fabrics used in Milano or Roma jackets. The cashmere (pure or blended) will be more expensive then the wool jackets. Which will be more expensive then the linen which will be more expensive then the cotton or cashco jackets.

 

[iatrogenic]

what do u guys think of RLPL suits?

 

[imatlas]

Originally Posted by Nicola

Zegna uses many many fabrics depending on the needs of the jacket. The only time I've seen Trofeo in RTW is the couture line. Travel fabrics are used in the traveller line of jackets. I don't seen a construction difference between the various fabrics used in Milano or Roma jackets. The cashmere (pure or blended) will be more expensive then the wool jackets. Which will be more expensive then the linen which will be more expensive then the cotton or cashco jackets.
I have a Zegna SC from their mainline (non couture) in Trofeo, and have seen many other examples.

 

[clintonf]

Originally Posted by imatlas

I have a Zegna SC from their mainline (non couture) in Trofeo, and have seen many other examples.

+1, I have at least 4 pieces which are non-Couture made from Trofeo material.

Clint

 

[The_Foxx]

probably the best fitting/ shaped, moderate shoulders and modern but classic lapels, some of the highest quality suits I own. all things considered, my favorite suits-- and you can still find them at discount. If you're still in the market and can do $975-$1200 for a new suit, call the RL store in Beverley Hills and ask for Stephen.

here's one of my favorites, a nice grey wool with small % of cashmere that helps prevent creases:

Originally Posted by iatrogenic

what do u guys think of RLPL suits?

 

[CH868]

I am just wondering why all the Zegna suits come with flap side pockets

I always have the urge to get a scissor and cut them off

 

[Zeltrum]

Stephen can you still get that 975-1200 on a new suit.