1. Hi. We moved systems, and because it was impossible to achieve feature parity between the systems, we opted to archive the old B&S threads but allow users to read them so that they can put them into our new B&S system.

    There is a support thread if you have any issues.

    Cheers,

    Fok.

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TWEEDS! Southwick, Korn of Paris, Custom Made Brooks Bros., more! Harris Tweed, Donegal-style tweed,

Discussion in '2011-2017 Classic Menswear' started by tweedydon, Nov 22, 2015.

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  1. tweedydon

    tweedydon Distinguished Member

    Messages:
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    May 18, 2009
    As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING IN THE USA; International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost!

    Also as always, ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!

    Please PM with interest and offers!

    1) BEAUTIFUL Anglophile Guncheck, Made in France by Korn of Paris!

    This is absolutely exquisite! Made in France by Korn of Paris, this is fully canvassed and fully lined, and exemplifies the French love of the upper-class English country look. (The Bon Chic Bon Genre--BCBG--French look draws heavily on the fabrics and colorways on the English upper classes, with gunchecks and windowpanes being perennial favourites!) Cut from a beautiful British country green twill with a complementary windowpane overcheck in rich chestnut and bracken, the patterning and colourway of this wonderful jacket are perfect. It's a contemporary two button model with darting and three button cuffs. It features an Anglophilia twin vent.

    Asking just $25, or offer.

    Tagged EU 48 (US-UK 38). Measurements:


    Chest: 21 1/8
    Sleeve: 22 3/4 (+2)
    Shoulder: 19 1/4
    Length: 29 3/4

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    2) Lovely British Guncheck, Made in the UK.

    This is a lovely, classic English jacket! Made in the UK, this is a traditional guncheck in a medley of bracken, peat black, forest green and moss green, on a traditional tan base. Half-canvassed and fully lined, this is a contemporary two-button front model, with subtle darting and two button cuffs. As you'd expect fom an English sporting jacket this has twin vents. It's in absolutely excellent condition.

    Asking just $30, or offer.

    Tagged 40L, this measures:


    Chest: 21
    Sleeve: 25 3/4 (+1 3/4)
    Shoulder: 18 1/4
    Length: 30 3/4

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    3) CLASSIC IVY/TRAD 3/2 sack tweed from NORMAN HILTON

    This is beautiful! Made by Normal Hilton, one of the great trad. clothiers of Princeton, along with Langrock, Ballot, The English Shop, and The Princeton Clothing Co., this is cut from a traditional and classic brown herringbone tweed. IT HAS ALL OF THE TRAD DESIDERATA! This is, first, a tweed 3/2 sack. It also has lapped seams along the sleeves, across the shoulders, and down the centre back, as well as a single hook vent with a lapped seam. It is half lined, and half canvassed. It has two button cuffs; the buttons are all likely horn. It has lovely natural shoulders! It was, of course, Made in the USA!

    The interior label has been removed--although it still carries the Hilton label in the inside of the interior pocket--otherwise this is in absolutely excellent condition.

    Asking just $30, or offer.

    Tagged 42L. Measurements:


    Chest: 21 3/4
    Sleeve: 25 1/4 (+2 1/4)
    Shoulder: 18 1/8
    Length: 31 3/4

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    4) WONDERFULLY TEXTURED DONEGAL-ESQUE TWEED!

    This is a wonderfully textured tweed! Cut from a beautifully slubby Donegal-sque cloth, the most striking feature of this tweed is its wonderful texture, reminiscent of dry stone walls in Co. Sligo and the rough-hewn stones of a barn's foundation. The colourway does full justice to the texture; a lovely heathery mix of browns, creams, mochas, and peats. The cut of the tweed matches its casual country texture; two large patch pockets adorn the front, suede elbow patches protect the sleeves, and the buttons are all leather-clad, metal shanked football buttons. It is a contemporary two button front with subtle darting, and was Made in the USA. It's in excellent condition.

    Asking just $25, or offer.

    Tagged 40R. Measures:


    Chest: 20 1/2
    Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+1 1/2)
    Shoulder: 18 1/2
    Length: 30

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    5) Classic Brown Herringbone Tweed--with patch pockets!

    This is a lovely classic brown herringbone tweed, with the ever-desirable and increasingly rare patch pockets, complete with pocket flaps! This is a contemporary two button front model with subtle darts. It has three button cuffs; all of its buttons are the traditional leather-covered metal-shanked football buttons. It has a single vent, and was, of course, Made in the USA. It's in excellent condition.

    This was sold at Maury Robinson's, the upscale clothier in Trenton--when Trenton was itself upscale. Robinson's gained some measure of fame when it managed to "poach" Vincenzo Paxia, one of the better tailors in the area, from Langrock of Princeton! As an aside, Vincenzo is still tailoring, aged 81, from his home in Trenton.

    Asking just $25, or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 21 1/2
    Sleeve: 23 1/3 (+ 2 1/4)
    Shoulder: 19 1/4
    Length: 30

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    6) WONDERFUL Southwick houndstooth jacket.

    This is wonderful! Made by Southwick, one of the great traditional American clothiers, for Roots, one of the great (and long gone) tradly clothiers of upscale New Jersey, this beautiful jacket is cut from a classic grey and cream houndstooth tweed with accents of forest green, with a complementary dark red windowpane overcheck. It is half-canvassed and fully lined. It's a contemporary two button front closure jacket, with subtle darting and a single centre vent. It has four button cuffs; all the buttons are likely horn. It was, of course, Made in the USA, and it's in absolutely excellent condition.

    Asking just $29, or offer, for this beauty!

    Measurements
    :

    Chest: 22
    Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+2)
    Shoulder: 18 3/4
    Length: 30 1/2

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    7) WONDERFUL Custom Tailored Tweed 3/2 sack by Brooks Brothers!

    This is a wonderful jacket--and one attached to some political controversy!

    This jacket was made in 1989 for John R. Fiorino... who made the headlines of the Washington Post in 1988 as a contributor to the Dukakis campiagn. Dukakis was running ads against George Bush (The Other One) criticizing him for being an elitist, and presented himself a a Man of the People. In response to this The Washington Post ran an article attacking Dukakis for being an elitist, noting that at least 50 wealthy Americans had contributed over $50,00 each to his campaign--and some had contributed as much as $100k! (Remember, this was 1988... and while these figures are large now, they were astronomical then! One of the wealthy American elite was the wealthy Chairman of the Monmouth Co., NJ, Democratic Party--John Fiorino... who commissioned this jacket just over one year later. (For the record, Fiorino contributed $80,000 to the Dukakis campaign--which would have bought a LOT of nice tweeds!)

    Whatever you think of his politics, Fiorino had excellent taste in jackets! This beautiful 3/2 sack has a wonderfully liquid label roll, and is cut from a beautiful dove-grey herringbone tweed that's shot through with vertical striping of cream, baby blue, and sepia tea rose pink. It's absolutely lovely! And the tailoring on it is exquisite--it's absolutely beautifully cut, and the pattern matching on the back is beautiful. It's half-canvassed and half-lined, with a single centre vent. It has three button cuffs and faux buttonholes. It was, of course, Made in the USA. It's in excellent condition, and a steal--for either Democrats or Republicans--at

    just $29, or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 21 7/8
    Sleeve: 23 1/4 (+1 1/2)
    Shoulder: 18 3/4
    Length: 29

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    8) A JACKET WITH AN AMERICAN TALE

    This jacket is wonderful.... Not just for its own sake, but for the American stories that are woven into its fabric.

    If the Brooks Brothers jacket, above, was a sign of the Establishment, this jacket is an example of the other end of the American spectrum--the self-made immigrants and long-time workers who built AMerican from the ground up, and made themselves wealthy in so doing.

    Let's start with the jacket itself. Made by Schneider's Custom Tailoring of Pittsburgh, you might think that this was made by a tailoring firm with German origins. But it wasn't; Schneider's was owned and operated by Tonino Trivelli, an Italian immigrant to the United States. Trivelli had little formal education, since he began work as a tailor's apprentice in 1946, age 12. The Second World War was just over, and young Tonino needed to help contribute to the family finances in a devastated Europe. Through hard work and skill he rose to the rank of Master Tailor--no mean feat in Italy. At some point he emigrated to the United States, choosing as his destination Pittsburgh.... as he already had family connections in the large and vibrant Italian communities that supplied a lot of the labor to the local steel mills. There, he set up Schneider's Custom Tailoring, eventually managing to move into the prestigious Oliver Building, Pittsburgh's famous skyscraper. He'd arrived--and his clients knew it. You want first-rate Italian tailoring? You go to Schneider's.

    And who better to be a client of his than another self-made man, Edward L. Solomon? A long-term Western PA working class family, his grandparents were in the steel industry as foremen and union bosses in Beaver Falls and Pittsburgh, probably employees of Crucible Steel. After serving in the Naval Air Corps Edward saved enough to buy Mercer Lime and Stone, which he expanded and made successful.

    Steel, stone, and Italian tailoring from immigrants who started age 12.... This is an *American* jacket!

    And it lives up to its heritage. Made in November 1993, this is a beautiful glen plaid check, this is cut from lighter-weight 11 1/2oz cloth; perfect for modern office environments, which is just what the CEO of Mercer Lime and Stone needed. The colourway is beautiful; muted and autumnal. This has patch pockets--always a desirable feature! It's half canvassed and half-lined, and has a single centre vent. It's subtly darted--as you'd expect from Italian tailoring--and has a two button closure. This is a wonderful example of Italian-American tailoring! It's in excellent condition.

    Asking just $22 for a piece of American history, boxed and shipped in the USA.

    Measurement
    s:

    Chest: 22
    Sleeve: 23 (+1 3/4)
    Shoulder: 19 1/2
    Length: 30 1/2

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    9) CLASSIC TWEED in herringbone and barleycorn--with TICKET POCKET!

    This is a lovely, classic tweed jacket! The tweed itself is wonderful; alternating vertical bands of classic grey herringbone in light grey and dark grey, and classic barleycorn, in the same colour scheme, woven together to form a beautifully complex yest subtle tweed. This is shot through with vertical stripes of forest green, sky blue, sepia pink, and dusty orange, for a wonderfully complex tweed indeed.

    The cut of the jacket does justice to its cloth. A contemporary two button front closure, this has flapped front poickets--including a ticket pocket that is still basted shut! It has subtle darts, and a single centre vent. It has four buttons cuffs--the buttons throughout are likely horn. It is half-canvassed and half-lined. It was Union made in the USA for Austin Reed, and is in excellent condition.

    Asking just $25, or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 19 1/2
    Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 3/4)
    Shoulder: 17 7/9
    Length: 29

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    10) GORGEOUS Harris Tweed in Charcoal Herringbone with vertical striping!

    This is absolutely GORGEOUS! A classic charcoal herringbone Harris Tweed, this is enlivened with classic Harris vertical stripes in beautiful shades of forest green, Royal blue, and rust orange; this is a truly lovely example of Harris tweed!

    The jacket lives up to the cloth; a contemporary two button model with subtle darts and a single centre vent, it appears to be half-canvassed, and is half-lined. It has four button cuffs--and all the buttons are the classic leather covered, metal-shanked, football buttons that go so perfectly with Harris tweed. This jacket was Made in the USA, and is in absolutely excellent condition. It's a bargain at

    just $27, or offer.

    Tagged 40R. Measurements:


    Chest: 20 1/4
    Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+ 1 1/2)
    Shoulder: 18 1/8
    Length: 29 1/2

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    11) SPECTACULAR and RARE Harris Tweed!

    This is a wonderful jacket, and if it was just a bit smaller there's no way that it would be here, as I love the more unusual yet classic Harris patterns. Cut from a lovely traditional weight Harris Tweed, the patterning and colourway of this jacket are both wonderful. The base is a traditional and classic cream, slate grey, and peat black houndstooth; this is overlaid with windowpane overchecking in russet, the colour of bracken in late autumn. This really is a beautiful jacket!

    It's a contemporary two button model, with subtle darts. It has three button cuffs. All of the buttons are traditional the traditional metal-shanked, leather-covered buttons that go so well with Harris--here, they're a lovely shade of rich chestnut that complements the overchecking perfectly. The jacket is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has a single centre vent. It was Union Made in the USA--and is in absolutely excellent condition!

    Asking just $27, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 21 1/2
    Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
    Shoulder: 18
    Length: 31 3/4

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    12) Classic Tweed, cut from Dormeuil cloth!

    This is a lovely understated tweed! This is made from cloth from Dormeuil, a French clothiers that has been in business since 1842. Dormeuil cloth is easily some of the best in the world, although whether its quality justifies its exceptionally high cost (higher than other superb fabrics, such as those by Holland & Sherry) is a matter for debate. Of course, the original cost of this fabric won't concern you since this is appearing here... But it does indicate that this is an exceptionally nice jacket indeed!

    The Dormeuil cloth from which this jacket is cut is lovely; a miniature check in autumnal shades of chestnut, bracket, moss green, and tan, this is a very versatile jacket indeed. Made by Austin Reed, there's no country of manufacture listed, but judging by the twin vent it's either England, or, judging by the three button cuffs with no faux buttonholes, the USA. In either case, the quality of the tailoring is excellent; it's half-canvassed and fully lined, and has a contemporary two button front with subtle darting. It's in absolutely excellent condition, and given the quality of both the cloth and the tailoring is a steal at

    just $24, or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 21 1/2
    Sleeve: 27 1/2 (+ 1 3/4)
    Shoulder: 18
    Length: 32 1/2

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    13) BEAUTIFUL Contemporary 3/2 lambswool tweed sack from Brooks Brothers

    This is a beautiful jacket! Cut from pure lambswool, this has a wonderfully soft hand and drape. The patterning and subtle and complex. The base is a chevron tweed in forest green, tan, and cream, overlaid with overchecking in forest green, slate blue, and russet bracken. This is cut as a 3/2 sack with a lovely fluid lapel and the traditional two button cuff. It is half-canvassed, and fully lined; the lining is a lovely shade of sepia rose. It has a single centre vent. This is a truly beautiful and distinctive jacket. It was, of course, Made in the USA.

    This carries the old-school Brooks Brothers "block capitals on navy" label.

    It is in excellent condition except for a single thread weave flaw on the left hand chest, and a similar weave flaw on the left cuff, as shown.

    Asking just $27, or offer.

    Tagged 44, this measures smaller:


    Chest: 21 1/2
    Sleeve: 25 (+1 1/2)
    Shoulder: 19
    Length: 30 1/8

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    14) Brooks Brothers Camelhair in muted earthtone glen plaid

    This is a wonderfully subdued jacket! Cut from extremely lovely camelhair, this has a wonderful hand and drape. The glen plaid patterning is a subtle medley or loden green, autumn bracken, and earth browns; this is a perfect jacket for a New England Fall just as the leaves are turning. It is subtly darted, and has a two button closure, four button cuffs, and a center vent. It is fully canvassed and fully lined. It is in absolutely excellent condition.

    Asking just $25, or offer.

    Tagged 42XL, this measures:


    Chest: 22
    Sleeve: 27 (+1 3/4)
    Shoulder: 19 1/4
    Length: 34

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    15) VINTAGE! UTTERLY 1960s dark burgundy herringbone 2-button sack tweed--with original hanger!

    This is both seriously rare, and seriously beautiful! It's hard to know where to start with this, so let's begin with the colourway. This is a very, very dark burgundy tweed in miniature herringbone heavily flecked throughout with dark black peat. This is an utterly 1960s aesthetic; it's a classic herringbone, and the colouring is dark, but it's still a burgundy tweed--shocking for the squares with their black and cream herringbones, or occasional daring glen plaid! This is also very 1960s Ivy; defiant, yet conventional, rebelling within the lines of probity.

    As well as its colourway this is a very 1960s Ivy cut, with very narrow notch lapels, a lovely fluid lapel roll--AND it's a two-button sack! It features the classic two button cuffs, a single centre vent, and is half-lined. It is also fully canvassed. As you'd expect this carries a 1960s Union tag; where else would you build clothes like this, except in the USA--or possibly the swinging UK?

    It's in absolutely excellent condition. It even comes complete with its original hanger!

    Asking just $25, or offer.

    Measurements
    :

    Chest: 21 1/4
    Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+1 1/2)
    Shoulder: 18 1/4
    Length: 30 5/8

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    16) CLASSIC Old-School Jos. A. Banks 3/2 sack herringbone tweed

    Please don't confuse this with the current offerings from Jos. A Banks; this dates from its "Red Label" era, when it was a worthy rival to Brooks--and when Brooks was generally much better than it now is, too!

    This is a classic 3/2 sack in brown and tan herringbone--if you don't have one of these in your wardrobe, you should! This has a very high lapel roll--almost a 2.5/3--with a lovely liquid roll. This features the classic two-button cuffs and a single center vent. It is half canvassed, Made in the USA, and has its original hang-tag intact. This is in absolutely excellent condition, and is a steal at

    just $25, or offer.

    Measurements:

    Chest: 21 1/2
    Sleeve: 23 (+2)
    SHoulder: 19 1/2
    Length: 30 1/2

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    17) CLASSIC herringbone Harris Tweed

    If you don't have a black and cream or slate blue herringbone Harris tweed in your wardrobe--why not? This is an absolute staple, and, together with a good navy blazer, should be part of the backbone of any classic wardrobe. So, if you don't have one--now's your chance!

    This example is lovely! A wonderful greyish slate-blue herringbone, this has classic metal-shanked football buttons, a two button closure, and is subtly darted. It is half-canvassed, half-lined, and has a single centre vent. It was, of course, Made in the USA. It's in excellent condition, although the buttons have a slight amount of patina, as shown.

    Asking just $25, or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 20
    Sleeve: 24 (+ 1)
    Shoulder: 18 1/4
    Length: 29 1/2

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    18) VINTAGE 3/2 sack in light loden twill

    This is a SPLENDID jacket! Cut from a lovely thick twill in a light loden green, this beauty is a true 3/2 sack with a lovely lapel roll. It dates from between 1962 and 1972, judging by the Union Label, and was sold by Roots, one of the major purveyors of tradly items in New Jersey and Eastern PA. (And this has a wonderful vintage label from there!) It has a lovely lapel roll, and the twill is wonderfully durable and attractive--almost like keeper's tweed, except all-wool and with no cotton content. It has classic two button cuffs, and is half-canvassed and half-lined. It has a single centre vent. And, of course it was Made in the USA.

    This is in excellent condition, except for one minor flaw.... Sometime around 1978 the original owner left two things in the lower left pocket: a list of instructions from one of his clients (he was a lawyer), which were typed out on a manual typewriter.... and some candy! Unfortunately, the candy "leaked" into the lining of the pocket, which is now stiff and candified. (And possibly edible.) This has no effect on the jacket, but my advice would be to have the pocket liner replaced--a simple and easy job for any competent dry-cleaner tailor.

    Given this, this jacket is in Very Good condition overall, and hence is very well priced at just

    $20, or offer.

    Measurements
    :

    Chest: 21 3/4
    Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2 1/2)
    Shoulder: 18 1/4
    Length: 30

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    19) OLD SCHOOL Jos. A. Banks Herringbone Tweed--with THREE PATCH POCKETS!

    Please put your prejudice against JAB items to one side, for this jacket dates from the tail end of the "red label" era, when Banks could rival Brooks for decent Tradly items!

    This is a classic tweed in dark grey herringbone stripes while alternate with similarly dark grey barleycorn stripes, making this a lovely and interesting tweed that still appears classic and conservative at a distance. This jacket is a contemporary two button model with subtle darts. It also has THREE patch pockets at front--including the ever desirable patch breast pocket! This jacket is fully lined, and half-canvassed. It is unvented, in Flusser-approved style, and was Made in the USA.

    It's in excellent condition, and is a steal at just $25, or offer.

    Tagged 46L, this measures:


    Chest: 25 1/4
    Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
    Shoulder: 20 3/4
    Length: 32 3/4

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    20) CLASSIC HARRIS TWEED in dark grey herringbone with chestnut accents!

    This is a lovely, classic Harris! Cut from dark grey herringbone, this is accented throughout with flecks and vertical stripes of rich burnished chestnut brown, forest green, and dark blue--a wonderful example of this famous tweed! The jacket itself is a contemporary two button model, with subtle darts and a single centre vent. It is fully lined, and was Made in the USA. This is a lovely, classic wardrobe staple, and a bargain at just

    $29, or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 21 1/4
    Sleeve: 24 (+2 1/2)
    Shoulder: 18 1/4
    Length: 31

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    21) Classic Tweed Hacking Jacket!

    This is a lovely example of a durable tweed hacking jacket! Cut from grey and cream basketweave tweed, this lovely jacket has all of the features you'd expect from a hacking jacket; slanted, flapped, hacking pockets, a functional and slanted hacking ticket pocket, twin vents, and suede elbow patches! This also features a half-lining, it is subtly darted, and has a two button front and three button cuffs. All of the buttons are leather-covered, metal-shanked, football buttons.

    This jacket was made for Jack Lang, a family-owned department store chain based in Philadelphia that started in 1952 and closed in 1991, two years after its founded, Jack Lang, sold the business.

    This jacket is in absolutely excellent condition, and although there's no country of origin listed it was clearly Made in the USA.

    Asking just $25, or offer, for this lovely classic tweed!

    Measurements:

    Chest: 20 3/4
    Sleeve: 25 (+2)
    Shoulder: 18
    Length: 30 1/4

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