Three dimensional fullness in the chest?

[claybertrand]

At a tailor shop in Bangkok, the salesman showed me the difference between one of their MTM and bespoke suits by showing how the chest area of the bespoke had much more dimension and looked fuller than MTM. Is this a typical difference between MTM and bespoke? Is this type of fullness only achieved in true bespoke tailoring? Also this tailor specializes in Italian cuts, is this three dimensionality in the chest a hallmark of that cut or is that not particular to them? The blue blazer is the MTM and the grey sport jacket is the bespoke.

I like this three dimensionality a lot and would love to know more about this type of tailoring, so any information about what this is would be great. And if there are other top bespoke tailors that have this as a part of their house cut. Thank you for the help!

 

[manowar]

The drape of the gray jacket is quite nice. I know nothing about this topic but my curiosity is piqued... following.

 

[breakaway01]

This is often called a “swelled” chest and if you search on StyleForum you will find threads on this. IMO it does not require true bespoke. My understanding is that in
it’s nothing more than some more room in the chest plus a construction (canvas, etc) that will hold that convex shape. Steed for example will do this in their MTM jackets, I believe.

 

[claybertrand]

This is often called a “swelled” chest and if you search on StyleForum you will find threads on this. IMO it does not require true bespoke. My understanding is that in
it’s nothing more than some more room in the chest plus a construction (canvas, etc) that will hold that convex shape. Steed for example will do this in their MTM jackets, I believe.

This is so helpful, thank you so much!

 

[maxalex]

More drape in the chest is typically associated with classic British tailoring; a closer chest is a more Italian look. These are generalities as you can find bespoke tailors in London who don’t do much drape and ones in Naples who do. It’s a matter of preference and not an indication of quality in itself.

 

[claybertrand]

More drape in the chest is typically associated with classic British tailoring; a closer chest is a more Italian look. These are generalities as you can find bespoke tailors in London who don’t do much drape and ones in Naples who do. It’s a matter of preference and not an indication of quality in itself.

Ah I understand so much better now thank you. It is a look that I like quite a lot but it's good to know that I don't need to get a fully bespoke jacket to get it.