Thinking of going bespoke...

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

Thanks, guys.

There are two issues at play here- is the base size correct and is the grading correct?

How we determine whether the base size fits correctly is the subject of another huge discussion but let's assume that the basic fit is good.

What the anthropometric studies give us, more than an average build, is how the body develops from size to size. Let's say that an average size 42 has a 42" chest, 36" waist, 42" seat, 48" overarm, etc. We can take about 35 measurements and determine that this is our base. The studies of different people give us generalizations like the following-

for every two inches increase in the chest (size 42 to 44) the waist also increases two inches, as does the seat, the armscye increases 3/4", the neck base increases 1/2", the bicep increases 1/2" etc. It is this set of proportions, or assumptions about how the various parts of the body develop from size to size that is flawed. So the base size can be correct but as you increase or decrease in size from the base these flaws become magnified.

Although the data is still being analyzed, I will go out on a limb to theorize that it is not possible to make generalizations like this, that standard linear grading will not work to greater than 4 sizes (they currently cover 30) and as the ratio of fleshy mass versus skeletal mass increases it becomes increasingly impossible to standardize fit and the only solution for this demographic is for the industry to streamline our operations in order to allow a better, faster, and more accurate system of MTM so that people who can not afford bespoke can at least get a half-way decent fit at an affordable price.

Clearly 60% of the North American population is being poorly served but some of us are trying to improve that.

I'm ranting again, aren't I?

So would you say being a size 36 is actually quite good considering the basis for suit sizing? (I thought it was 38 or 40 to be honest).

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by Fuuma

So would you say being a size 36 is actually quite good considering the basis for suit sizing? (I thought it was 38 or 40 to be honest).

Quite good in what respect?

 

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

Quite good in what respect?

Considering it was used as an average. The further you get away from the start, the more distorted the pattern becomes.

 

[Nicola]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

I'm ranting again, aren't I?

Hardly. Just passing on good info.

 

[Nicola]

Originally Posted by aragon765

Well said and thanks, Jeffery. Does the same rationale also apply to the ectomorphs in the crowd? I would assume that the army ideal would be more of a mesomorph (compact / muscular build) and so MTM/Bespoke would also have a similar effect/benefit on the skinny as it does on the portly?

Thanks again for the reply.


I don't think he is decribing the army ideal. He is describing what they found when they measured a bunch of 1940s guys who were most likely in their mid 20s.

I'm sure some were ecto. Some meso. Some endo.

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by Fuuma

Considering it was used as an average. The further you get away from the start, the more distorted the pattern becomes.

Right. Only we use 40 or 42 as a base now- it shows how the population has shifted since then. But the distortions are less dramatic grading down from the base as opposed to grading up from it.

Originally Posted by Nicola

I don't think he is decribing the army ideal. He is describing what they found when they measured a bunch of 1940s guys who were most likely in their mid 20s.

I'm sure some were ecto. Some meso. Some endo.

Yup.

 

[Cary Grant]

Originally Posted by suited

Great post, still doesn't answer my question.

If you're fat, you're not going to look very spectacular no matter how well your suit "fits". IMO, clothing that fits correctly is best used to show off your build, which a very small percentage of people can do.

Totally disagree- If you are the "fat" person and feel this way, that's a self-image issue. If you're not the fat person and feel that way about those that are, that's simply personal bias/opinion.

There are many grteat examples of very rotund actors who look stunning in a well-fitted garment. I might still think they are obese, but I cannot argue how good their style/aapearamce is and would rather see that than a 350lb man at 5'5" wearing a huge OTR bag.

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by suited

If you're fat, you're not going to look very spectacular no matter how well your suit "fits". IMO, clothing that fits correctly is best used to show off your build, which a very small percentage of people can do.

Whatever floats your boat. To me, it's the equivalent of a 260lb girl getting a spray tan.

If you want to look good, try losing some weight first.

It just sounds like you're saying "I'm too lazy to lose weight, so I just want some clothes that can disguise my obesity". I guess I'm the asshole for giving him a straight answer.

 

[mdavie]

Originally Posted by upnorth

Before I bite, can anyone show me a picture of a fat ****** who looks good in a bespoke suit first?

A bespoke suit consists of two things, the cut and the fabric. No matter the cut, if you are wearing a bright purple suit than ya, you might look like the guy from the McDonald's children's toys. But a nice black suit can slim down a large built man.

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