The Overcoat Thread

[Anjuna]

About to buy my first proper overcoat. Thinking of a navy, ulster-style overcoat from an italian maker such as Caruso, Lardini etc.

I was eyeing this piece from Caruso. However I wanted to ask more experienced folk about the button stance. To me, it seems to be very low, thinking this might be sort of an "ultra-modern" baggier and loose fitting silhouette, that seems to be on trend right now. I'm looking for a classic and well-cut overcoat that ends slightly above the knee.

Spoiler: Image

Versus this Lardini for example.

Spoiler: Image2

Looking for opinions on this matter, thanks in advance!

 

[DorianGreen]

About to buy my first proper overcoat. Thinking of a navy, ulster-style overcoat from an italian maker such as Caruso, Lardini etc.

I was eyeing this piece from Caruso. However I wanted to ask more experienced folk about the button stance. To me, it seems to be very low, thinking this might be sort of an "ultra-modern" baggier and loose fitting silhouette, that seems to be on trend right now. I'm looking for a classic and well-cut overcoat that ends slightly above the knee.

Spoiler: Image

View attachment 1844478

Versus this Lardini for example.

Spoiler: Image2

View attachment 1844479

Looking for opinions on this matter, thanks in advance!

I (much) prefer the Caruso over the Lardini, especially for the collar and lapel. Also the cloth seems to be superior. As you said, the button stance and positioning does't look best. I like to have the upper buttons not in line with the others, but more externally.

 

[Zerase]

About to buy my first proper overcoat. Thinking of a navy, ulster-style overcoat from an italian maker such as Caruso, Lardini etc.

I was eyeing this piece from Caruso. However I wanted to ask more experienced folk about the button stance. To me, it seems to be very low, thinking this might be sort of an "ultra-modern" baggier and loose fitting silhouette, that seems to be on trend right now. I'm looking for a classic and well-cut overcoat that ends slightly above the knee.

Spoiler: Image

View attachment 1844478

Versus this Lardini for example.

Spoiler: Image2

View attachment 1844479

Looking for opinions on this matter, thanks in advance!

A lower buttoning stance can look pretty classic and nice if you ask me

 

[DorianGreen]

A lower buttoning stance can look pretty classic and nice if you ask me
View attachment 1844481

You have to wear a coat that long though.

 

[Zerase]

You have to wear a coat that long though.

I don't see why you shouldn't

 

[DorianGreen]

I don't see why you shouldn't

I don't disagree, but he's looking for something over the knee. Of course he can change his mind.

 

[Anjuna]

Exactly! I also think there should be more distance between the 2 uppermost buttons, but I suppose that's the look they are going for with this coat as per the picture Zerase posted (which looks great by the way). Also, I don't mind a slightly over the knee look and suppose it can look even much better than just above the knee when done right. Suppose I'll find out when I order the coat

 

[Mirage-]

I ended up preordering the dark grey donegal raglan from Permanent Style after a month of consideration, both on colour choice (really liked the brown too, my partner hates it though) and on whether to spend that much in the first place (it's by far the most expensive piece of clothing I've ever bought). It arrivedend of last month, but sadly in Italy it's still so warm that I can't wear anything more than a cotton blouson, so I'll take pictures later on.
I do think it might need to be shortened (certainly in the sleeves, probably in the body too, it goes way below the knees).
And btw it has no belt, which is actually partially why I chose it: I wanted one specifically designed to be worn without. Overcoats with belts just remind me too strongly of house robes, and tend to be excessively roomy if you remove it.
PS's looks fairly roomy while open, but if buttoned it actually looks surprisingly shaped, though still roomy enough for a jacket. And the raglan shoulder really does the miracle of looking good both with and without a jacket, which was a big problem with my previous Cavour overcoat (which I felt was slightly too trim in the shoulders for a jacket - even Cavour's own soft shouldered one - yet slightly hollow-shouldered without).

 

[FlyingHorker]

I'm split between these two overcoats, would love some input.

Spoiler

A bit split between two vintage coats I've been looking at. I'd be wearing them closed, in an oversized manner. Over hoodies and sneakers, sports coats and chinos etc. A scarf too of course.

This one is a Hickey Freeman in a mystery fabric. The seller (our own eazye) says it's fuzzy and possibly Alpaca. It's glen plaid. I like the Hickey's peak lapels, but not a fan of the brighter colour. It's also very long; I'd have to get the hem shortened and narrowed, and the sleeves shortened. The coat's texture is overall appealing, despite the image quality. The chest opening is also more closed; that matters a lot for my windy, frigid city.

This is one is by Abrahaum Straus in cashmere. The lapels are flimsy looking, but I like how they curve and roll. Lots of lapped seams and swelled edges everywhere. Love the trad details. No tailoring will be necessary, but there isn't much texture. The seller did confirm the cashmere is a heavier fabric, so it should drape nicer than lightweight cashmere as well.

 

[Pandaros]

I'm split between these two overcoats, would love some input.

Spoiler

A bit split between two vintage coats I've been looking at. I'd be wearing them closed, in an oversized manner. Over hoodies and sneakers, sports coats and chinos etc. A scarf too of course.

This one is a Hickey Freeman in a mystery fabric. The seller (our own eazye) says it's fuzzy and possibly Alpaca. It's glen plaid. I like the Hickey's peak lapels, but not a fan of the brighter colour. It's also very long; I'd have to get the hem shortened and narrowed, and the sleeves shortened. The coat's texture is overall appealing, despite the image quality. The chest opening is also more closed; that matters a lot for my windy, frigid city.

This is one is by Abrahaum Straus in cashmere. The lapels are flimsy looking, but I like how they curve and roll. Lots of lapped seams and swelled edges everywhere. Love the trad details. No tailoring will be necessary, but there isn't much texture. The seller did confirm the cashmere is a heavier fabric, so it should drape nicer than lightweight cashmere as well.

Not sure that I like either tbh from those photos

 

[FlyingHorker]

Not sure that I like either tbh from those photos

All good. Can you elaborate on what you don't like?

My coat wardrobe is filled with earthy/drab colours and textures. I was thinking I'd pick up a single-breasted coat in navy/blue to provide some more contrast capabilities in my wardrobe.

 

[comrade]

I ended up preordering the dark grey donegal raglan from Permanent Style after a month of consideration, both on colour choice (really liked the brown too, my partner hates it though) and on whether to spend that much in the first place (it's by far the most expensive piece of clothing I've ever bought). It arrivedend of last month, but sadly in Italy it's still so warm that I can't wear anything more than a cotton blouson, so I'll take pictures later on.
I do think it might need to be shortened (certainly in the sleeves, probably in the body too, it goes way below the knees).
And btw it has no belt, which is actually partially why I chose it: I wanted one specifically designed to be worn without. Overcoats with belts just remind me too strongly of house robes, and tend to be excessively roomy if you remove it.
PS's looks fairly roomy while open, but if buttoned it actually looks surprisingly shaped, though still roomy enough for a jacket. And the raglan shoulder really does the miracle of looking good both with and without a jacket, which was a big problem with my previous Cavour overcoat (which I felt was slightly too trim in the shoulders for a jacket - even Cavour's own soft shouldered one - yet slightly hollow-shouldered without).

You mean a version of this? Great classical full-cut

Permanent Style

Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat

www.permanentstyle.com

 

[GaiusM]

I ended up preordering the dark grey donegal raglan from Permanent Style after a month of consideration, both on colour choice (really liked the brown too, my partner hates it though) and on whether to spend that much in the first place (it's by far the most expensive piece of clothing I've ever bought). It arrivedend of last month, but sadly in Italy it's still so warm that I can't wear anything more than a cotton blouson, so I'll take pictures later on.
I do think it might need to be shortened (certainly in the sleeves, probably in the body too, it goes way below the knees).
And btw it has no belt, which is actually partially why I chose it: I wanted one specifically designed to be worn without. Overcoats with belts just remind me too strongly of house robes, and tend to be excessively roomy if you remove it.
PS's looks fairly roomy while open, but if buttoned it actually looks surprisingly shaped, though still roomy enough for a jacket. And the raglan shoulder really does the miracle of looking good both with and without a jacket, which was a big problem with my previous Cavour overcoat (which I felt was slightly too trim in the shoulders for a jacket - even Cavour's own soft shouldered one - yet slightly hollow-shouldered without).

Great choice. Wasn't aware it was still being offered. Is it something you can preorder every year?

 

[Mirage-]

You mean a version of this? Great classical full-cut

Permanent Style

Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat

www.permanentstyle.com

Yes, precisely that colour. Though this year's preorder version was done in a slightly heavier weight than the one in that article, the v1.

Great choice. Wasn't aware it was still being offered. Is it something you can preorder every year?

I'm not sure about that. In the past years Simon has done a different version each year, first the dark grey herringbone, then dark brown herringbone (heaviest), then light grey with larger herringbone (in-between the two previous weights). I don't like the last version, it looks too much like a fashion statement, but love both of the former 2.
In any case, I have admired it for a full 3 years in his photos before deciding I was willing (and able) to spend 1200€ on it.
Since he had many requests for past versions this year he set up a preorder (in summer) for all past versions, all in the most recent weight though, and I went for the original dark grey.
He then also just released a navy version - which I thought I would have wanted instead, but after looking at photos I prefer the one I got. Being a donegal like all others, it looks too much like a "sky print" somehow.

Some of my favourite shots:

Ofc it is much longer on me since i'm "just" 173cm, leaving half that much open.

 

[13.characters]

How do you find the new Permanent Style's navy Donegal overcoat? Considering it, but on the fence about the heavy flecking.