The formality range of cloths

[Michael Ay329]

What is considered the most formal and conservative pattern of fabric on a solid color for business wear
Nailshead, herringbone, birdseye, worsted or woolen flannel...others?

What is the difference between nailshead and birdseye fabric as it seems the same to me?

 

[Despos]

Of the cloths mentioned herringbone would be the most conservative and the smaller, narrower the herringbone weave the dressier. Sharkskin or a plain worsted, are dressier than any you mentioned. Generally speaking, the smoother the finish, the dressier the cloth. Textured cloth is not as dressy. Barathea is an exception. The more discreet the pattern/weave, the more conservative the look.

Birdseye pattern is perfectly round, nailhead is irregularly shaped, sort of jagged look.

 

[Sator]

Dress coats and dinner jackets can be made out of very fine herringbone weaves.

 

[lasbar]

And Dupioni in that inventory?
Very thin herringbone weaves are very dressy...
How about chalk or tennis stripes?

 

[globetrotter]

Originally Posted by Despos

Birdseye pattern is perfectly round, nailhead is irregularly shaped, sort of jagged look.

you learn something new every day - I did not know that

 

[Film Noir Buff]

There isn't a strict hierarchy by pattern because color and the fineness of the cloth plays a part. Not just the finish which is also important as Despos pointed out but the micronage such as super 120s, 150s etc...This causes overlap. Is an espresso brown nailhead more formal than a medium blue herringbone?

Thus, unless youre dealing with the same color and shade in these different patterns there will be other variables at work.

 

[lasbar]

FNB is right ...The shape ,the style ,the silhouette, the lapels ,the colour and so many things will make a suit dressier than another one..
Like any inventory attempt , too many parameters have been occulted to create a systematic order of dressiness..

 

[Michael Ay329]

Thanks everyone for the heads up...I'm focusing on the color blue...more specifically a Navy Blue (I find Navy far too dark) or a Dark blue in a Super 80 or Super 90, likely in the 360-480 gram weight class

What is Barathera exactly...I've heard mohair is partially thrown into it and I've even seen Albert Thurston braces made out of it?

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

What is Barathera exactly...

Barathea

 

[OxxfordSJLINY]

Originally Posted by Despos

Of the cloths mentioned herringbone would be the most conservative and the smaller, narrower the herringbone weave the dressier. Sharkskin or a plain worsted, are dressier than any you mentioned. Generally speaking, the smoother the finish, the dressier the cloth. Textured cloth is not as dressy. Barathea is an exception. The more discreet the pattern/weave, the more conservative the look.

Birdseye pattern is perfectly round, nailhead is irregularly shaped, sort of jagged look.

What is the level of formality of a solid plain design wool flannel?

Also, what is the level of formality of a plain design wool flannel with the following: .2 of a centimeter thick contrasting single chalkstripes, each of them spaced about .75 of an inch apart from each other?

I just love the way wool flannel feels, but only when it has the following: a weight of 420 to 570 grams and a thread count that is any amount lower than super 100s along with being just as I described in full details in the paragraph above.

 

[OxxfordSJLINY]

Originally Posted by lasbar

And Dupioni in that inventory?
Very thin herringbone weaves are very dressy...
How about chalk or tennis stripes?

Forgive my ignorance, but what is a tennis stripe?

 

[lasbar]

A tennis stripe is a very thin stripe compared to the chalk ones ....
They're very discret and understated...
I love them but they give personality to a suit without having the overkill effect of the classic chalk stripes...

 

[taxgenius]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

There isn't a strict hierarchy by pattern because color and the fineness of the cloth plays a part. Not just the finish which is also important as Despos pointed out but the micronage such as super 120s, 150s etc...This causes overlap. Is an espresso brown nailhead more formal than a medium blue herringbone?

Thus, unless youre dealing with the same color and shade in these different patterns there will be other variables at work.

Well said. Too many variables.

 

[OxxfordSJLINY]

Originally Posted by lasbar

A tennis stripe is a very thin stripe compared to the chalk ones ....
They're very discret and understated...
I love them but they give personality to a suit without having the overkill effect of the classic chalk stripes...

That is excellent to know! Thank you, lasbar!

What are the answers to my other questions regarding the formality for the wool flannel fabrics that I described in full details? I posted that reply topic earlier today (specifically, on Wednesday, May 27th, 2009 at 2:45PM Eastern Standard Time).