Suit shoulders question

[aerogaa]

Hello,

I recently asked my tailor to correct the shoulder pitch (backward bunching) by rotating the suit sleeves. However after the rotation adjustment, there seems to be divots appearing on my shoulders.

The shoulders feel slightly tighter when put on. Whilst I suspect the tailor would not have shorten the shoulder width or cut the sleeveheads (and there's no reason to), it makes me wonder what the cause to this issue is. When I compare the before (with darker background in photo grid) and after photos (lighter backgrounds), there seems to be little difference in the shoulder length to my untrained eyes. My pose also affects how the divots may show.

I will be taking the suit back to my tailor for fixing later this month, but would like to be specific in addressing this. I would appreciate any advice on what the (root cause) issue is and whether this can be reversed/fixed.

 

[GBR]

Are you not making a mistake by telling him what to do rather than allowing him to use his skills? Or, maybe, you are saying that he has no skill.

 

[aerogaa]

Are you not making a mistake by telling him what to do rather than allowing him to use his skills? Or, maybe, you are saying that he has no skill.

My tailor is pretty experienced but there are times where he overlooked. This is also for my curiosity, as I'm trying to understand how this issue came up as a result of shoulder rotation adjustment (assuming sleevehead has not been cut).

 

[aerogaa]

Anyone to chime in?

 

[Hifilover]

Correction of backard bunching is not by rotation of sleeves. Usually is by take in extra fabric from back seam of side panel. Take in side panel will result the sleeveshead circumferce smaller . A horizontal devot from sleevehead means tight .

 

[Hifilover]

You give wrong advise to your tailor and tailor accept your advise because of lazy . Proper way to correct back bunching is take in fabric from shoulder line and lengthen the jacket bottom . It means it needs to open shoulders , it is a lot of work including take off back collar and sleeves as well. Tons of work and time involve.

 

[Hifilover]

Moreover , upper back centre seam need to be take in or straighten .

I lost over 15 lbs , i brought my jackets to tailors for reducing back bunching . First tailor did yours and charge me half day , result is similar to yours . I brought another jacket to another tailor , he explained to me proper way to correct back bunching and he charged me 1.5 days (triple) .

 

[aerogaa]

You give wrong advise to your tailor and tailor accept your advise because of lazy . Proper way to correct back bunching is take in fabric from shoulder line and lengthen the jacket bottom . It means it needs to open shoulders , it is a lot of work including take off back collar and sleeves as well. Tons of work and time involve.

Hi @Hifilover, actually the issue was with the sleeve back bunching rather than bunching at the back of the suit, hence the rotation adjustment.

Having said that, any suggestion on how current divot issue can be resolved? Furthermore the shoulders are seemingly tighter and the side of my arms are pushing outward forming a curvature on the sleeves, any thoughts on why this is happening?

Enclosing more photos (shop background is before) for reference too.

 

[Hifilover]

Ok , sleeved back bunching reason is the shoulder line backward but not sleeve off pitch . Move the shoulder line forward and re attach the sleeves .

 

[Hifilover]

If the jacket shoulder line is not seat on the centre of your shoulders but backward . Due to gravity , the sleeves cannot drape properly .

 

[Hifilover]

When a tailor give you first fitting , he will first check the shoulder line is located correctly . Your jacket seems shoulder line is backward .

 

[Hifilover]

Moreover , you have dropped right shoulder , your right shoulder line should be more forward than the left. I saw your jacket right back (not sleeve) has more bunches than the left.

 

[aerogaa]

Ok , sleeved back bunching reason is the shoulder line backward but not sleeve off pitch . Move the shoulder line forward and re attach the sleeves .

Thanks @Hifilover, so to be clear I need to have the tailor re-attach the sleeves to the "original pitch position" - That curvature of the sleeve and the divots are bothering me a lot and I hope to get the sharp shoulders back. Would you reckon this problem can be reversed?

Secondly I will discuss with the tailor on bring the shoulder line forward and hopefully that should address the sleeve back bunching.

 

[Hifilover]

My comment for your sleeves bunching in the beginning is shoulder line back off . First reference point to attach the sleeves is shoulder line .
I think it is reversible and can be improve .
If I were you , I will tell your tailor I am not happy with sleeves and jacket back But not teaching him what to do.

It is a very English cut , may I know the name of the tailor?

 

[Hifilover]

Is it from Tom Ford rtw ?